Bonnet vents, windscreen wipers are fixed which saves them falling off when racing, Grills, the rear bumper houses red rear fog lights, a little chrome exhaust protrudes nicely out the back. On the roof of the car there is the now mandatory air intake at the front, and what seems to be a well secured rear spoiler (time will tell on that one). The mirrors have a mirror finish and seem to will flex slightly under pressure so hopefully that will give them a bit of a chance to survive the first off. All the windows have a neat black surround which makes them look complete it's touches like this that make this that bit special. The headlights are chromed with some clear plastic but they are well made you can see the individual sections for the different bulbs, though they don't have lighting they somehow seem bright.

The rear light clusters consist of orange Red and silver sections which round off the rear of the car well. The car feels solid and much to my liking doesn't rattle at all. Overall the car has a nice shine to it and seems well proportioned.
 
The interior has a roll cage with rear-view mirror attached, (It's also a little too low I'm sure it can be pushed back into place once the body has been taken off). A spare wheel is easily visible in the rear. Both the driver and co-driver are complete, the co-driver is holding his pace notes, both have simple white fire suits and a black racing harness. There is a red fire extinguisher under the co-drivers legs, though the Dash is not decorated in anyway it is shaped and you can see the cones that cover all the dials.
 

OK time to put it on the track Oh No! It's back all that noise,  two laps was all I could bare, then the top had to come off. Which entails removing four screws these may explain why nothing was rattling as they where all reasonably tight the two in the front are shorter than those at the back as the rears also go through the motor mount.
 

The chassis for this little car has a semi-floating motor mount, which also has the option (with the supplied adaptor "cuna") To fit a long-can inline now that's something that is certainly unusual especially in such a small chassis.
 

Please note that the interior will require modifying to do this. I haven't tried this yet. I may come back to this later.

The rear of the chassis has additional supporting members these are to help with the rigidity of the chassis and certainly seem to do a good job, I have friends who spend hours creating miniature feats of engineering to solve this exact problem on other cars. Just to point out here, removing the two screws at the front of the motor pod and the whole thing separates really nicely its a handy little touch because of the design of the screw fitting it is a lot less fussy than other motor pods I have played with, I know it sounds strange, but I like this because it is so simple and it works. 
 

Something that did give me cause for concern, is the give in the rear axle it has some play which almost moves the gear off the pinion I checked the wheels to see if they are completely in place, only to find that left hand wheel rubs on the chassis, this can't help though it is easy to rectify with some small washers just to space the axle and prevent the wheel making contact with the chassis (a certain lollypop stick can come in very handy here).

The wheels themselves are very neat authentic looking plastic wheels that fill the arches well ,though they are a touch on the thin side and I'm not sure even with moving it to inline if any wider wheels could be fitted, at the moment they do not protrude from the body which has been a criticism of some of the other manufacturers in this field. I may come back to this later.

The front of the car has a small row of rivets which could have been painted black to emulate the 1:1 on first glance they are not noticeable, but as Sloter have gone to the trouble of putting them on, it's a job that they could have been completed. I didn't mention the jack points either another nice little touch.
 

The Guide see for yourself the cable eyelets are too big they protrude out of the top of the guide they can't be pushed in anymore or else they stick out below the car - I think these will be cut down to size.

This review should have ended here, however I found it hard to put this car down so some-time later, I've been able to work on the car;

• I have replaced the eyelets with some shallower ones =  a two second job.

• Initially I fitted some washers on the right side rear wheel to stop the slop! =  a two second job.

• I added 5gm of lead to the front as it lifts under hard acceleration.

• I then found another problem the tyres though soft enough to provide a decent level of grip they actually separate from the wheels at top speed. All they needed was to be glued to work well. I must mention all the wheels are well balanced and round. 

• Just to show how much I was enjoying this car I even built a plexi slot track just to test it with the magnet in = It works well in this and is competitive with other 2 WD1600s I have such as SCX.

• To try and give it that bit more edge, I fitted some alloy wheels and gears on the rear which made it much better and it was getting nearer the performance I wanted.