WASP Tryes

Review by Andy Mintoff

If, like me, you understand the importance of what keeps the four corners of your car in contact with the surface you're driving on, as high on your agenda as a nicely balanced chassis, you will always be looking for an improvement. They are the main contact between your car and the surface it is travelling on, to being faster than the next guy. Starting off with as little wheel spin as possible, to braking for that first turn, sliding just the right amount through the bend, with as little wheel spin out of it. The car's four tyres. A good set are going to help you win, and that's what it is all about. Fitting an OEM set to a new Hornby F1 car will transform it.

I first heard about WASP tyres here on SlotForum. Somebody was raving about them, so much that he had fitted them to all his club cars. At first I thought that a bit extreme. So I had to investigate. I have tried different makes on the fastest cars I have. What works well on my home track, was not always as good on our club track. Plastic v Wood. What worked well on my Fly F40s did not on the Slot.it F40s. This is something you have to determine for yourself. Fitting WASPs to them changed that. Their lap times started to become equal.

WASP make three compounds, all urethane. As Wayne says on his web site "The urethane I use is Smooth-on Vita flex, its more expensive but gives far superior results to cheaper brands."

20, soft. 30, mid-range. 40, hard (No, not that hard).

The 20s are very soft, and are suited to a flat smooth painted track, for example latex/acrylic, although I have not tried it, I think these tyres would be a match for the super tyres, which are made of silicon. On my home skid pan, painted household emulsion, with a bit of sand thrown in for good measure, they feathered up very quickly, but still managed a 'G' of 1.236. 2nd best out of all the tyres that I tested.

The 30s which are closer to the 40s than the 20s in compound fared the best of the lot. If you're in the market for a set of good rears, go for the 30s, which gave a 'G' of 1.242. This is one of the best tyres I have used. Over 1000 laps of a 2.96M circle, they gave constant times, lapping at 1.217s.

The 40s, which I feel are best suited to Plastic and a heavier car, gave a 'G' of 1.109 and a lap time of 1.288s, over 1000 laps, that puts the 30s in a 71s lead.

All in all, I think Wayne has done a very good job in making a well-balanced tyre. With three compounds to choose from, and at a very competitive price, basically £1 a tyre. Wayne will also make up a custom mould from your original tyres, which is a must for you guys out there in the real world, that are still racing your 60s slot car on their original rubber, and I know a lot of you still do, with a good coating of 3in1 or WD40. Why? When there are far better doughnuts around that will give your racing the kick it needs.

Please note. With all tyres, they need to be glued to the wheel. Plastic wheels have a great deal more grip than MAGNESIUM or ALLOY. I tend to use 'Hard as Nails' (ask the wife, girlfriend, sister or Mother) for urethane. Easy to remove using Nail polish remover and you don't wreck the tyre. 'Black RTV Silicone instant gasket' for Silicone tyres. It works for me!

Thanks for reading, and remember, this is my opinion, there are other opinions out there.

November 2011