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Nissan Skyline GTR

Review by taxi & BEEJAY7

I've been really surprised at how long it has taken the slotcar manufacturers to produce a range of JGTC cars. You'd have thought that the popularity of computer games like the Gran Turismo series, which feature a lot of these cars, would have prompted them into action much sooner. Or maybe plans have taken a long time to come to fruition?

Whatever the reasons, there is now a good (and growing) range of Super GT cars on the market, including at long last, the beast - the Nissan Skyline GTR

This new model from Scalextric appears to be the Impul-Calsonic car from 2003, although the 2001 and 2002 liveries are very similar and no indication of year is given on the car or box. 

But whatever the year, it's a superb-looking model. Paintwork and Tampo-printing are first class, absolutely solid and blemish-free. As we've come to expect from Scalextric, the level of detail is very good too. The bonnet vents (pictured below), 'masked' headlamps, side scoops ahead of the rear arches, recessed 'Skyline' badge at the rear and a smattering of photo-etched parts are all good examples of the attention to detail shown on this car. 

The interior is also well-detailed, even if it's nearly all black! It's a shame they didn't paint or highlight the interior in some way, not only have they produced a highly detailed dashboard, but also the floor section, gear lever and linkage, and partial roll cage.  Unusually for a Scalextric car there is no instrument detailing on the dash.

The rear half of the interior is a bit odd though - rear seats and a parcel shelf with speakers! The rear seats don't look right, the floor is raised to clear the motor so the seat bases end up almost level with the windows. Not usually race-car equipment, so expect some road cars sometime in the future. The driver is the usual Scalextric figure, not the Takara example, painted blue with a plain silver helmet.   

Scalextric continue their annoying habit of using too many screws to put the car together - two each front and rear and two to secure the interior to the chassis. These can be dispensed with as the the interior clips securely to the body.

If you had any hopes that the Skyline would be compatible with the plug-in digital modules, I'm afraid you're out of luck. The chassis is a standard Scalextric sidewinder, complete with lights. There is provision for a standard digital chip.

The good news is that Takara are said to be releasing their own version of the Skyline (apparently it's a different variant) so we'll have even more choice in the future.    

Giving the car its first run, straight out of the box, brings no real surprises. It's what you would expect from any modern Scalextric car - decently quick and lots of grip thanks to the strong bar magnet. My car was a little noisy at first, due to the rear axle moving side to side. This was partially cured by drawing the pinion gear forward a little, but it needed a washer between the spur gear and axle bearing to really settle it down. While I had the car in pieces I also glued in the axle bearings and motor as they seemed a little loose. The car is noticeably quieter now.

With the car running quiet and smooth, the next step was to true and clean the tyres and move the magnet to the alternative position towards the front of the car. 

I should have separated these steps because I couldn't tell the difference. The car still had bags of grip and seemed very composed. On the odd occasion that the tail stepped out of line the car sorted itself without drama.

Time for the ultimate test - no magnet! I didn't add any weight, I just wanted to see how it ran without its 'traction control'.

Again the car seems very composed. It has plenty of grip and is quite hard to unsettle. Even without the magnet the Skyline will accelerate and brake quite hard, and corner with surprising speed. It will slide when provoked, but I found it quite a forgiving car, even when pushed quite hard.

Part of the reason for this is the relatively long wheelbase. At 82.5mm it's longer than the Supras and NSXs, though slightly shorter than the Ninco Mosler. But the guide to rear axle measurement is almost identical to the Mosler, another car that I found stable and easy to drive.

That's the end of my contribution, I'll now hand you over to Alan...

Rob and I thought it might be useful to add a section relating to the cars "non-magnetic" performance on a wooden track , and also how to get the most out of the car without actually changing any components. Almost any car can be improved by changing motor, tyres, gears etc., but the test of a good basic design is to use what you have, so here we go!.

Track setup

All the testing and timings were undertaken on my routed track, using a DS Lap counter/Timer. Power supply is standard Scalextric Wall units, (Voltage 13.8, Amps 0.8). Controllers are Prof Motor Electronic Units. All tests run over 30 laps.
An good average time for a lap is about 5.5 seconds. The lap record is 4.325 seconds.

Out of the Box.

Scalextric cars are generally pretty good out of the box so I was looking forward to testing the Skyline.
The first few laps were disappointing, the car was very rough sounding and had little grip. Time to take a baseline lap reading.

Test One - Box standard - 6.515 seconds.

Tyre Truing

The first improvement I tried was truing the rear tyres. I have a small test rig set up adjacent to my track to do this job. I found the tyres to be pretty good and only required a little work. It was necessary to round the edges of the tyres as they were very square. Easy to do with a small nail file/sanding block.

Test Two - Tyre Truing - 5.620 seconds......Almost a one second improvement and a much easier car to drive.

Chassis Work

The body is held on with four screws, and two additional small screws secure the car interior to the chassis. First I had to find out why the car sounded so rough, on inspection it was pretty obvious that there was too much lateral movement in the rear axle.....A common problem with Fly Classic cars, but you don't expect it on Scalextric cars....A thin spacer between the spur gear and the chassis solved the problem and peace was restored.
I also removed the lighting boards and associated wiring, sorry I don't like lights on model cars. I also removed the magnet.
The motor was slightly loose in it's holder so was glued in place, together with the rear bearings. Small drops of light engineering oil was placed on the front and rear axles to aid smooth running. The spur gear was well greased during manufacture. The body was replaced and all screws tightened, and then slackened by one turn.

Test Three - Chassis Work - 5.248 seconds. Another small improvement and a much more drivable car.

Adding Weight

The last area of tuning is adding weight. The photograph below shows the placement of the lead :-

SlotForum Posted Image

The lead is attached with impact glue.

Test Four- Adding Weight - 5.012 seconds.

At the end of the tuning the car has improved it's lap times from 6.515 to 5.012 seconds, (just over 1.5 seconds). It is also very smooth and a real pleasure to drive. No components have been changed.

Regards

Alan

 

   Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 21st May 2013 - 11:08
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