SSD Chipping Database, Add the cars you have chipped. Options

[Ian B]

jmswms,

It's a Scaley.

Strange one then as my Scalex one is one of my favorite cars its the one of the fastest it's the one I use for any testing as I know it will always perform

Do the Fly GT40s chip easily?

The reason I asked is a colleague of mine is looking for the Fly version, I haven't tried to chip one YET!

Good to see you have pictures now they look Great!
13

[jmswms]

jmswms,
Strange on then as my Scalex one is one of my favorite cars its the one of the fastest it's the one I use for any testing as I know it will always perform

Bleep, maybe it's the magnets in the Boxsters. I do have a very short and twisty track. The GT40 is fast, but my longest straight is only about 6 feet. I'm guessing the Boxsters have stronger magnets than the stock GT40.

[yorkshire_keith]

Here's the pictures of the sharknose I promised some guy in a different thread but which seemed to be more appropriate here





I haven't tried to do pics before but hopefully you can see that it isn't that hard to fit the chip as long as you don't mind butchering the (left) inner tub side of the upper half.(Far Far easier than the Maserati 250F for example which is a much bigger car but is front engined) the good thing is it looks no different from before from the outside once re-assembled. You have to look really hard right down into the cockpit at an angle to see some of the detail down by the side of the driver is missing.

It also seems still really fast after chipping. ( I'm running on 13.8v but even on twelve this is a very "wick" car)

[wildkatze]

chipped:

Ninco Jägermeister Porsche (Saloon)
Revell Jaguar E-Type (F1)
Fly Porsche 917 (F1)
Carrera Aston Martin DB5 (F1)
Carrera Ford Mustang GT (Saloon)
Scalextric Ferrari P4 (Saloon)

[yorkshire_keith]

Here's how to shoe-horn an F1 chip into a 250F (the vanwall is much much easier b.t.w.)
The only place I could find the space to put it was in the tail unit. the pick-up wires are long enough but the LED and motor wires both need extending.
separate the body into three sections

to Make room in the tail you need to snap off the mounting lug ( you can cut this in half and glue it to the bottom mount so the screw has something to screw into if you prefer but I just glue the very end section to the lower body pan.
Stick a couple of holes through the axle mounts for the extended LED and Motor Wires, this keeps them securely out of the way of the rear gears. (the holes are indicated by the pinkish circles)

Thr main problem with the body is the way the cockpit interior and driver are connected to the body and the floor pan making it impossible to remove the body again if you thread the wires through the cockpit sides. To get round this you need to modify the cockpit interior and the mounts. The cockpit side pieces come glued to the driver. Bust 'em off and glue them to the insides of the body ( the pink shows where I apply the super gloop)

Then cut off the ends of the original mounts to make enough space for the wires to pass round the insides of them under the drivers seat

Put the body back in place and drill some new holes through the floorpan and the shortened locating tangs.

Next you have to make some room under the seat next to the body locating points to allow the wires to pass round the ends of them.( the pink area shows the approximate amount removed.

lastly you need to put a groove near the left edge of the lump of grey plastic that sits on the rear axle to hold the pick-up wires away fron the gears.

The driver is now seperate from the body so I mounted him on the floor pan with a the glue gun as it doesn't stick very permanently and you could remove him again if you need to get the engine out. The next picture shows it reasembled apart from the upper body. note how the wires pass around the inside of the new mounting hole.

I haven't shown the LED location because it's pretty straight forward there's a hole already in place it just needs drilling out to 3mm and the LED pushing right down into it and the wires bending out flat to the left and right. the axle assembly then presses down and keeps it located without any glue needed.
Glue the middle body section back onto the front section. and leave these two seperate from the very end tail. or glue it to the tail and leave the body to split just behind the driver either way it's such a well produced body it'll match so well you wont even be able to tell its been split. the difficult bit is getting the upper body back on you have to spread it out a bit to get it round the driver and fiddle a bit to get him to hold the wheel ( on one of mine I broke the wheel off and glued it to his hands you have to look very carefully to tell) but the body will go on and come off again if you need it to.
That's been the Holy grail of chipping for me so far but I'm sure someone's done a harder one.
let's see some other tricky conversions to add to this database and make it really useful.

[Ian B]

Hi Keith,
Great job, very neat nice photos Keep up the good work

[MattZani]

in the process of my first chip.
A 330 P4!
its hard.
the guide flat bit broke off. that had to be soldered!
wires weren't long enough.
chip only just fits on mounts.
back lights wires won't reach.
two electrical taped wires(old motor and new motor) have to make it through a tiny gap.
instructions weren't clear

it now works without body. will leave that till tomorrow.
And i have to do a revell e-type and corvette!
if you have suggestions on how to chip these then put it in here:
topic for revell chipping.

I think it went well as im only ************ (count stars)

Well my heads cloudy from solder fumes

[jmswms]

Matt, the 330 P4 is a really hard car to begin your chipping experience. it gets (mostly) easier from there.

[MattZani]

i don't think im gonna count the revell's as easy. the LED is gonna have to be in the middle! but scaleys should be. may be not MC12 but its digital ready any ways sooo... to the morning and rip apart 2 never run mint revells! hehe...

[yorkshire_keith]

Hi Bleep. Thanks.
I'd like to see much more in the way of photos on this thread to help others do the more difficult conversions.
I've got a 330 P4 on order right now and a chip waiting for it. I'd have liked MattZani to share his problems with us in a more visual way so we're ready for the problems when they occur. ( not that I don't appreciate the written word but a picture paints a thousand words so why can't...)
Come on chippers get your cameras out.

[slot king]

What would be the best chip for a scaley scooby?

[Savage]

I have just done a Scaley GT40 and P330, both with F1 chips.
GT40 was easy, RichG had been there before and his experiences in pics helped make it a breeze
The P330 wasnt too bad, but was time consuming as I wanted always on lights, not brigtness varying with power style
I clipped the wires for the lights off the motor were they were soldered, and joined the front/rear wires.
The chip (for once) had the right metal shoes for the pick-up mount, so they clipped straight in, and I spliced these to join the lighting wires.
The trouble came ensuring nothing fouled, as the body has very little clearance over the pickup area, and this is were the suppresion/ ferrite choke were, and the splicing !
It was worse because I chose to run the cables over the front axle, as under looked like it would rub through the wires eventually.
it took a bit of fiddling to get it all in place without anything fouling the pick up on rotation, but all in place now ... then I simply painted some matt black over the LED's to dim them down so they didn't shine through the bodywork.

I have A Ninco NSX and Supra to do, should be no probs looks like lots of room, Scaley Camaro and Mustang, again looks to be straightforward, Fly 911 and CSL which will need a bit of thought but should work out, and finaly a pair of Fly Alfa 156's ... which will probably need the light boards removing and some removal of that wonderful detail, so they may not get chipped

[Ian B]

slotking

What would be the best chip for a scaley scooby?

Saloon Chip I'm sure you'll fit it in and I prefer saloon chips seem to be more robust

Hope this helps

[MattZani]

the hardest part for the p4 was inexperience and interior pan. i didn't use the feet on the digital chip, i cut them off and used the original ones. the capacitior hits the body and reduces movement. the e-type was really easy! the LED is quite far back and a bit off center though. if i go to fast it thinks it was the car before, but if im going that fast it falls off on the corner. if i had the option i would have bought the jadlam converted one off epay.

[slot king]

slotking
Saloon Chip I'm sure you'll fit it in and I prefer saloon chips seem to be more robust

Hope this helps

Thanks Bleep I'll go and them soon.