Building your HO garage, Cars to race at WHO Racing events Options

[montoya1]

Are you going to be a regular at Colchester, I will run monthly meetings, hopefully last Friday of the month.

Semi, I would say. Medium-term you need locals, but I will approach the ECHO meets the same way I do the Tendring ones: If I get clear of what I need to do early enough that the A12 will be bearable, I will be there.

[woodcote]

After Simon's impressive win with a Tomy Mega-G in the March F1 round, many of our racers may be looking at this new chassis.

The long wheel base (1.7") version of the chassis can run in F1 with no modifications and in our Mod class too (with one of the new LMP bodies). It can also run at the national EAHORC rounds - but must be modified to fit the EAHORC rules - a set-up that is also legal at WHO.

There is also a short wheel base (1.5") version that can run in WHO Mod and Nascar classes. Andy won last September's Mod race with an unmodified 1.5 Mega-G and Simon raced the same chassis (with replacement wheels and a lexan body) to 4th place in the February race.

For the first time in the UK, Slot Cars Direct are now selling Mega-G cars and replacement pick-up shoes.

The WHO shop will also have pick-ups. We can also order you the Champcar and LMP cars through the shop - let us know if you're interested.

[Gareth]

I've put the SG+ F1 project on the backburner and am leaping onto the Mega G bandwagon with my purchase of a MarTech Mega G F1 car, complete with squint at it funny and it reminds you of a 2010 Renault body.

Really looking forward to bringing it to the May round of F1 as I've decided that I'm one of those people who just don't get on too well with Tyco cars.

[woodcote]

Although you can currently run a Mega-G straight from the box in WHO F1, you'd be better off setting it up so it is legal for the national EAHORC races too.

You need to do three things to make the car 'EAHORC legal':

1. trim the front wing so the width is no more than 24.9mm (0.980'') and no less than 20mm (0.787'') wide,

2. the Chassis must be fitted with a Wizzard Storm front axle/wheel assembly (part WS13B) set to a maximum width of 31.35mm (1.234''),

3. fit rear silicone tyres so that the height of rear tyres/wheels combined is not less than 11.506mm (0.453'').

Et voilà:



You can then run this car at WHO Racing F1 events, but you'd need to replace the EAHORC silicone tyres with the original rubber ones.

We will be stocking the Wizzard Storm front axle assembly (WS13B) in the club shop - and the silicone tyres - which will come to around £3 for both.

We also stock the Mega-G pit kits - which contain spare pick-ups, springs, guide pin, pinion gear, rear axle and rubber tyres - and pairs of pick-ups.

When I get round to taking some pictures, I will show some of my tips to get the maximum performance out of an F1 Mega-G.

[montoya1]

Can I just add that some people - including woodcote - have been very creative at doing repaints on the £2 white bodies that EAHORC brings in a few times a year, as well as making endplates for the front wings to make the job look much better.

So if you are handy in those departments why not follow their lead?

[Pennyworth]

Thanks for the info on the last couple of posts you two, I need to get working on my mega G body to make it EAHORC legal, The boys will probably be with me on the 19th Andy, Julie`s working so I can`t ditch `em, but Jonah`s looking forward to more racing after beating me on Wednesday, Cheers for now chaps.

[montoya1]

Pennyworth - that would be Simon, right?

I'm am looking forward adding the Coombes name to the EAHORC spreadsheet on the 19th, and if I am doing so three times then so much the better.

[woodcote]

When I get round to taking some pictures, I will show some of my tips to get the maximum performance out of an F1 Mega-G.

There's more over in the EAHORC forum, but here's a pic of how to change the traction magnet orientation in a Mega-G:



That's the simple way to do it from stock factory setting. Just mark the bottoms with a permanent marker (like a CD/DVD pen) and then flip out the magnet you want to change with a small screwdriver - it does require some force.

Then replace the magnet, un-marked side down (the car in the pic is high-down-force).

The Mega-G is nice & simple as the arrangement of both the motor and traction mags has a consistent factory-setting.

Most of the time the high-downforce setting will be the one to have, but the low-downforce setting gives more power and more speed on the straights (it's what I run in my Mod car).

The next thing is to grind down the front tyres to get the guide pin down in the slot. I need to do some soon, so I'll remember to take some pics

[RobinRacer]

Top Tip Andy. This is the most straigh forward explaination I've found for this alteration.

Just to advise everyone else, this alteration would work the same on Tomy SRT's and Maybe even a Marchon, but not a Tyco.

If you have any questions just ask and hopefully you'll get a not-too-technical answer

[montoya1]

Marchon traction magnets cannot be flipped, but they can be swapped from one side to the other. You can't swap the motor magnets because the axle only goes into the chassis one way.

[Gareth]

Interesting that you mention the SRTs Robin. I've got two Turbos I've stuck weak SRT blocks in and one Barry SRT. If I flip the mags on the weak cars maybe I can improve them enough not to justify buying stronger magnets. I'll give it a go at some point.

[Julian_Boolean]

Maybe even a Marchon,

The magnets can't be flipped on a Marchon - they only fit in up one way, though you can put a left in a right IYSWIM, but as the magnets are loads of tiny magnets set in resin blocks, would you gain anything if you could flip them?

[RobinRacer]

There you go then folks - Marchon traction magnet flipping is not possible. I said maybe orginally because I don't have one so could not be 100 percent sure.

[montoya1]

Actually the Marchon magnets are full Neo, the first toy chassis to feature that.

[woodcote]

As Robin said, for the cars we run at WHO, this tweak also works on the SRT. The standard motor configuration is the same as the Mega-G so you can work from the diagram above. Just to make sure, check the dimple on the front of the motor is on top.

Firmly - but gently- remove the rear axle, magnet clip and flip up the rear of the motor so the magnet tray slides out. The chassis can be a bit brittle at the back with all the components removed, so be careful.

To use the diagram above, we need to put the traction magnets in a south-down 'neutral setting'.

A small compass comes in handy here. Mark the south pole of each magnet and place them with this marked face 'exposed' in the magnet tray.

Remembering which way round the tray goes in the car, one of the magnets can be 'flipped' as per the diagram to make your SRT high or low down-force.

If your motor runs too hot on high down-force, you can either flip the magnets to low down-force or use larger tyres on the back wheels.

If you have excessive motor heat it's always worth checking that the axles, gears etc are all turning fine and there is no 'binding'. Also check the tyres aren't rubbing on the body

I have a simple gadget to check polarity, so if anyone wants to find out what set-up they have on their SRT, I'll bring it along to each club night - plus I could make another one to keep in the club shop...