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> SSD Chipping Database, Add the cars you have chipped.
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post 24 May 2005, 23:39
Post #16





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QUOTE (SinclairZX81 @ 24 May 2005, 18:58)
On a slight tangent, I  wish Scalextric would hurry up and get the newer, digital ready, round guide, underpan assemblies out as spares.
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Is this what your talking about New Guide Blades?
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SinclairZX81
post 25 May 2005, 06:36
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No, I mean the whole underpan assembly, like these, only for the new digital and digital ready cars.
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SinclairZX81
post 29 May 2005, 01:23
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Add...

AutoArt Peugeot 206, C7005, LED in widened case mounting hole under front motor shaft, works well, but no rear lights for some reason. Front lights work. Odd.

[EDIT]The rear lights are working, but very, very faintly and now I realise the headlights are very dim too... Could the AutoArt lighting board not like SSD very much?[/EDIT]

Another Ninco Renault Clio (GO! muddy), C7006, this one without lights (yet)

I also bought the new digital F1 cars. Nice to try some open wheelers again!
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SinclairZX81
post 30 May 2005, 08:19
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Well I am talking to myself here, but I just chipped my Slot.it 962 with the saloon chip. I couldn't wait for the Slot.it custom board after all tongue.gif The saloon style board fits fairly easily alongside the motor, leaning toward it. Of course I had to splice to the guide and sensor wires. Easy enough. I used the original Slot.it wires for the guide.

Anyway it works great. With the silicones and an extra HRS magnet this car flies! Makes the Mercedes CLK seem sluggish! biggrin.gif

Oh and I have determined that the F1 chip will fit easily into Scalextric's Dallara Indy cars too. Horizontally behind the driver.
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BerndL
post 1 Jun 2005, 16:06
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OK, I have it done too....

the following Cars are now digital biggrin.gif


C2367 MG Lola EX 257 Le Mans 2002 Knight Hawk Nr.30
C2482 MG Lola Banana Joe
for the Lolas I using a F1 Chip and a Dremel, it's really closely in the Lolas but the result is great. This Cars are my fastest now. You can connect this Cars to slowly Throttles

C2630 Maserati MC12 Nr.33
using a Saloon Chip and a Dremel. It runs a little bit slowy and you should connect it to a 3f Throttle

C2391 AMG Mercedes CLK Vodaphone Nr.1
using a Saloon Chip no Dremel needed. Runs very fast.

On all Cars the Light-LEDs are directly connect to incoming Power (the green and yellow Wires) so the light is on if you set the Cars to the Track.

happy racing
Bernd


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have a nice Day...

BerndL
Slot Fun Digital
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SinclairZX81
post 2 Jun 2005, 06:50
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I'm just a car chippin' fool...

Scalextric Dallara IRL Futaba Delphi, C7005 (F1), horizontal behind driver, sensor between his/her smile.gif legs (oooer!). Pocket rocket! Great bargain digi-racer! Going to get a grid of these.

Slot.it Nissan R390 GT1 1997 Le Mans Pre-Qual, C7006 (Saloon), loads of room in front of motor. Runs very fas and very nice with silcons and 2 HRS magnuts smile.gif


Drummer! When you gonna put that PHP/MySQL powered site together?
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RichG
post 2 Jun 2005, 10:55
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Hi, I have just taken the body off in preparation to chip my first car. A Scalextric GT40. Am going to try and put together 6 of them as a change from the Audi's.

Cannot see one on the list, so a couple of questions in case anyone has done one already.

Am using a saloon board and looks like it could be mounted horizontally above the front axle or vertically between the seats and the motor. No room vertically behind the front axle without major surgery to the cabin.

Either way some leads will need lengthening or joining. Can someone persuade Scalextric to lengthen them?

Also the little plastic bit where the 4 wires go into the board is a bit of a nuisance, has anyone else found this or removed it and soldered the leads directly to the board?

Led mounting will require a little chop to the cabin to mount it behind the magnet hole. Has anyone tried mounting in the Magnet hole or in front of the slot guide?

Might be useful for Scalextric to supply a small plastic piece that would facilitate mounting in the magnet hole for people who don't want to drill the chassis.

The whole assembly seems to be geared towards the Digital ready cars and not the older ones.

If noone has done one will report back on what I do.

Final question for people with GT40's. Do you run with the self centering guide or remove the mechanism?

Richard


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PM me for PB-Pro & S-H Power Upgrade. SSD Aux C7030 & C7042 (FTDI) USB leads
Ninco & Carrera D-132 (FTDI) USB leads, SSD Lap Display & Pit-Pro available to order
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scalextricracer
post 2 Jun 2005, 11:21
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RichG

On the TVR400r i used half an old plastic bearing to mount the led.

Hope this helps

ScalextricRacer thumbsup.gif


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Slot City
post 2 Jun 2005, 12:00
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QUOTE
Either way some leads will need lengthening or joining. Can someone persuade Scalextric to lengthen them?


The wires were too short on some of the early saloon chips. This issue has been addressed by Scalextric and in future the wires will be longer.

Jon,
Slot City.


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Slot City - Scalextric Service Centre 1000s of new & Obsolete spares available http://www.slotcity.co.uk
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BerndL
post 2 Jun 2005, 12:32
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@Richard

i used the smal plastic distance pieces comes with new cars in the Box.
Fitting it to the Magnet-Hole used a drop Glue. After it is fixed i put the LED in it an fix it with a drop second-glue. Works fine...

Bernd


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have a nice Day...

BerndL
Slot Fun Digital
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tvwino
post 2 Jun 2005, 13:13
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QUOTE (slotcity @ 2 Jun 2005, 23:00)
The wires were too short on some of the early saloon chips. This issue has been addressed by Scalextric and in future the wires will be longer.

Jon,
Slot City.
*


Jon,
something you might like to feedback to the folks at Horny next time you speak...

The new Peugeot 307 has the mounts for both a board and the sensor... but!

1. It is designed specifically for a single seater chip, board mounts narrower than for the saloon chip, and the actual body has mating posts too, so it even matters which way round you mount the board. The wires will need to be manipulated carefully, so as not to foul the rear wheel on that side.
2. The board gets mounted at the rear of the car, and the F1 chip has long enough pickup wires, but the wires for the sensor and the motor are STILL too short. Also, the sensor hole has the board mounts either side, but of course the F1 sensor doesn't have a board.

The Skoda is simpler, takes a saloon chip, although the sensor hole is smaller than the LED and needs drilling out to 3mm.

I think the Skoda has already been mentioned here, but I hope to get the Peugeot 307 done over the week-end, now I know what I need to muck around with, but thought it worth mentioning in case others were thinking of attempting one.

Cheers

Mike
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RichG
post 3 Jun 2005, 13:48
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Have chipped my first GT40, 5 more to go.

This is how I decided to do it. In the end there was room for the board above the front axle, between the seats and the motor or with some small surgery vertically behind the dash. This is the option I chose because above the front axle was very tight and fixing the board looked difficult. Behind the seats did fit, but decided I would keep the electronics away from the heat of the motor, would also have meant extending the Led leads.

Decided I could not consider Martins answer of on the passenger seat, although electronics on the passenger seat would be just like me when I have been shopping. smile.gif

The surgery was real, the driver already amputated below the knee has lost another 3mm. He says he's getting used to it now, and the diodes on the PCB are keeping his knees warm. ohmy.gif

I chose to use the wires on the PCB. The green and yellow were cut to length and I soldered the spade terminals from the original leads to them . The spade tags in the car were bent to an upright position, to make room for the board.

I removed the capacitor and ferite. As an aside I am puzzled as to why these are there, it is the motor that needs suppressing not the pickup, and all motors already have them fitted. question.gif




The red and black leads were just the right length and were soldered to the motor.
Black where the white was and red to where the black was.

The Led can be fitted in the magnet hole, but I decided to remove it from it's small pcb and mount it directly to the main control board. I then bent it through a right angle, drilled hole just behind the magnet and it all went in very nicely.




Body went back on with no pressure or fouling and I am pleased to say that on it's first outing it broke the lap record on my test track, beating the Audis & Boxters. That was with the standard psu.




So probably not the route that everyone would want to take, but as I want six of them I was keen to come up with a neat solution.

So just the rear and brake lights to go. I need to experiment a bit in the dark to get the brake and tail light brightness right.


This is my first attempt at posting pictures, hope it works. I think if you click on them you get a larger version.

Richard


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PM me for PB-Pro & S-H Power Upgrade. SSD Aux C7030 & C7042 (FTDI) USB leads
Ninco & Carrera D-132 (FTDI) USB leads, SSD Lap Display & Pit-Pro available to order
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Slot City
post 3 Jun 2005, 14:22
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Has anyone had a go at the Moto GP bikes yet?

It is possible as I've seen it done, though it wasn't pretty - the pcb was jammed in the side and stuck out a bit.

But it worked.

Jon,
Slot City.


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tvwino
post 4 Jun 2005, 00:13
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QUOTE (RichG @ 4 Jun 2005, 00:48)
Have chipped my first GT40, 5 more to go.

This is my first attempt at posting pictures, hope it works. I think if you click on them you get a larger version.

Richard
*


I think I might just have to give it a go - get some mileage out of mine, that have hardly been used of late. Excellent work and pictures - they really do help. [note to self to take pics in between cussing about getting the little blighters fitted]

Cheers

Mike
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Ian B
post 4 Jun 2005, 20:24
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QUOTE
Body went back on with no pressure or fouling and I am pleased to say that on it's first outing it broke the lap record on my test track, beating the Audis & Boxters. That was with the standard psu


cheers.gif
Rich
This might just be what it takes to convince me its time to change mine over. Nice job very neat.
Thanks

Ian B


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