CANS WITH ATTITUDE - AND STING, HOT OLD 16D, 26D and 36D MOTORS Options

[bill from nh]

A small Mura or Champion endbell bushing, soldered in the cans, is a good replacement for the factory blind bushings.

[Spurman]

Thanks for that Bill . Any particular type of solder I should use , in case of melt down ? Zig

[300SLR]

Thanks for that Bill . Any particular type of solder I should use , in case of melt down ? Zig

Any solder will do.
When soldering it in, only the parts of teh can near the bearing reach soldering temperature.
In practical use other things will fail due to overheating before the bearing gets anywhere near soldering temperature.

[merkit the grof]

A vintage motor thread, great!!!

Here is a very rare beast, although not a proper 16D, it is the right size motor.
Back then, there were many many US rewinders, but UK ones were almost non existant.

Here a rewind made up of a Rikochet can/magnet with a Rikoflash endbell
When I bought the first one, I thought it was a home wind, but I later found the 2nd one fitted to a chassis.
Last, I found a magazine article describing it

Here is the Taylor Tuned Motor, not quite as sexy as an Orange Picker or a Thumbprint, but much rarer.

It is fitted with this armature


And here a magazine article about it


Now a coupe of US rewinds

Lenz Hemi with silver winding


Unknown rewind , Russkit 23 painted metalic red



Joel

[Spurman]

Hi Joel , and thanks so much for your input . I looked at some of my spare motors ,
and the Taylor Tuned Motor , definately started life out as a Hitachi , as per my pic.

Now for the Lenz - Wow , never seen a Lenz conversion , made from a Strombeck Hemi !
That is a first for me , and no doubt for many others - thanks for including that rare motor .

Next , the mystery red over gold job ---- best I could come up with as far as ID ,
could be a Monogram ??? But I am not sure if Monogram ever sprayed over the gold of the
Russkit cans . Your motor has a Russkit can -- but the rest is a mystery to me !

I also added in my picture , this unusual Testor motor , made in Japan . You will see it has
a balanced armature -- and possibly this could be an old re-wind . So , if anybody has any
info on those Testor motors - it would be interesting to know if the armatures were balanced
as stock issue . This motor does have some serious sting ! Zig

[dgersh]

I think the red-painted rewinds were by U-Go... assuming it's a factory rewind.

Zig, the Testor was definitely a production model, the Turbo MkIII or something like that, but with a regular coil spring and not the hairpin variety. They were statically balanced if I remember right, but not dynamically, and were only about $5, for roughly 26D type performance. Not much brakes, so maybe better on a longer track!

Don

[32deuce]

z

[Spurman]

Thanks Don , think you solved the mysterious red on gold motor -- so it's a U -Go , I have one in 26D somewhere , but not 16D . Great stuff Z , certainly some hot motors in that collection . Mura using Hitachi cans - that is also a first for me . I have read about Certus before , using Mabuchi cans, and it was a nice re-wind . Now a question --- " Did John Cukras ever re-wind hot 16Ds ?" Zig

[Spurman]

Ok , found my U-Go 26D , and only added this pic -- for paint comparison of Joel's motor !
Yes Don , think you are right ! My U-Go has a gold sticker on the can , but writing has long
gone . Zig

[Spurman]

Ok , this is a Strombeck 16D style motor , with a blue end bell or comm end as many say .
Is there a difference performance wise , between the blue and red Strombeck motors !
I have both , but to be honest , I cannot tell any difference between them . Maybe
my red Stombecks have lost the zing , and down to the blue level or vise versa .
They seem to have about the same go to me !!!! Zig

[Spurman]

Hey Z -- love that SS-91 motor! Quite expensive for the era as well!
Do you know much about them, and if they performed well? I have
never used a cylindrical can motor before, and am quite interested to
hear from those who have used them. Zig

[one27ray]

humm.. How about a ??



for a ultra low profile frame design? can one put in a 16D balanced arm in it? don't have to worry about THE END-BELL melting

just a thought

i-ray

[Spurman]

Hi Ray - and hope all is well ! Yes , very interesting concept ! Does it have some serious sting like the old re-winds ? Zig

[dgersh]

Hmm, with all these great motors, where do I start?

Mike, those are some fabulous examples, and rather rare! I've never seen a Mura Hitachi either and had no idea they had done one! Certus was another midwestern product, like Dyna-Rewind, and was becoming popular in the area about the time I stopped racing, in late 68. Still don't have one of those, but I would imagine their performance is similar to the Dyna-Champion class - have you run any of these? Plus, an Orange Picker in the box (only $10.95? that must have been after the price cut revolution, when racers rebelled against $25 motors... and the manufacturers got the message!). The 503 ain't easy to find either...

Zig, I've run a couple SS91s and they're very fast, still, with lots of torque - but no brakes! Have to gear them at least 5:1 to get any brakes at all. Not sure if this is normal, or because of 40 year old magnets... Seems there are still a lot around, so maybe adults were treating themselves to a 15 dollar motor at the time - I certainly couldn't on a 14 year old's budget!

As you figured, the red Strombecker Hemi is supposedly higher performance than the blue TC32, but the latter has pretty decent speed too, and that's the one they put in their competition kits. I think the set cars had a slightly milder version of the blue endbell motor. But the Hemi was also available in a couple versions: standard, adjustable timing and wind yourself kit. I have a standard one in my current proxy car...

Just as an anecdote, a couple of the pro racers in the early SoCal series used stock Hemi motors when their rewinds began popping circuit breakers on some of the tracks - so I guess at the time it was considered a decent motor.

Ray, not sure about putting a can arm in one of the open frame motors - it was usually the other way around, mainly with the DC65X (hi Rick) arm... or a Ram arm in the 36D. You could always try it, or just rewind the arm in the Scuttler (or use the 6V Avenger...).

All for now.
Don

[merkit the grof]

I read somewhere that you cannot put a can arm in an open frame where the brushes are at 90 degrees to the magnet (different timing).
You would need to use a Pittman 196 or an Atlas.

Joel