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> Scratch Building
sdekoker
post 26 Mar 2013, 15:06
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I'm planning on making a permanent track but want to scratchbuild my own buildings. Does anyone have any ideas how I can do that, what materials and how to make them.
This is the building I want to do
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Mr Modifier
post 26 Mar 2013, 15:14
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You need to look at threads by kellerkind and sig on this forum. Use the members tab to find them.

When they fix the search function (top right of screen) you will be able to search SlotForum for all sorts of inspiring buildings.


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gokartride
post 26 Mar 2013, 15:17
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For scratchbuilding I generally either use basswood or cardstock a lot with plenty of basswood bracing. That said, I just finished a building using foam for the walls with joint compound over that to provide texture.


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Kellerkind
post 26 Mar 2013, 19:24
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Hey, this is going to be a great project, very ambitious and really cool for your track. For scratchbuilding you can really use everything you can find: Plywood, polystyrol, cardbord, wood from old newyearsrockets, coffeestirrers, paper, matches, brass from mustardtubes, tileglue, hotglue, fastglue, parts from old ballpens, concrete, sand, brasswire, used sandpaper, drinking straws.... I have a box where everything that might be useful is thrown in to be used later. Most of my buildings were absolute inexpensive and my personal challange is to build them as cheap as possible. To get an idea what I mean you might check the links in the signature below. Dont look out for perfection too much, just get it started! I am looking fwd for it. Rgeards Jens

@Mr.Modifier: Thanks for you recommendation, much appreciated.


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sdekoker
post 26 Mar 2013, 20:32
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Thanks for the encouragement. I will keep posting pics as I progress. How do I work out the dimensions in 1:32? I'd hate to put in all that work and have the building look out of place
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rallyP
post 26 Mar 2013, 20:55
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I join myself to the question in the first post, what is the "best" material to use (as walls and ceilling) in a building whose walls are made of concrete?

I used plywood in the past, but it can't be the best solution (Balsawood did not exist in the right dimensions in the nearby store and maybe is a bit fragile). Posterboard infuriates me and does weird stuff when painted, maybe I using a bad technique when dealing with it. I wonder, what are your thoughts.
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gokartride
post 26 Mar 2013, 23:06
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QUOTE (sdekoker @ 26 Mar 2013, 15:32) *
How do I work out the dimensions in 1:32? I'd hate to put in all that work and have the building look out of place


I tend to start with a 1:32 figure or two...or a car...and just approximate things from there. If I was really concerned I would recommend building a rough cardboard mock-up of the structure to see how it looks in place. Building by exact mathematical scale can be a bit deceiving...it may be right but does not always look right. I prefer to go with what looks right.


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Ember
post 26 Mar 2013, 23:24
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I agree with the idea of making a cardboard or paper maquette to check your scales. As you have a photo of a building you should be able to work out the size approximately by picking something in the photo that you know the size of and related all other things to that.

eg) In your photo, the door height would probably be a good place to start. Have a look at shops around you, do they have an average door height? From there you should be able to work out the size of the windows, a little over half the door height and on from there.

Remember, there is no right or wrong. If it looks right to you then it's right.

Embs


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dangermouse
post 27 Mar 2013, 07:08
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There are many scale rulers for working out dimension for 1/32 I downloaded an app for my smartphone from woodland scenics which converts dimensions in scale it is available for iPhone and Android
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com...20&secid=61

It lets you choose a scale put in an actual dimension - eg say 7 feet and it tells you the scale size

There are other tools like this online as well if you don't have a smartphone.

I have made concrete type walls in the past by coating balsa wood in white glue and then coating with a very fine sand. When dry I paint grey and then dry brush

cheers
David


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Stepe
post 27 Mar 2013, 10:38
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Have a try, scratch building makes fun. thumbsup.gif
I use Depafit (another name is Kapa panels), pasteboard, paper, computerprints for the advertising, logos, signs etc. and a lot of different things I found in my part box, such as springs from ballpens, lids from felt markers, rivets etc. And with the time you will get an eye for things in the houshold you can use for your project. But Attention! The house wife is watching you. ohmy.gif
It's a nice project you have planed. I will pursue it with interest.
Stephan
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minus
post 27 Mar 2013, 10:56
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QUOTE (dangermouse @ 27 Mar 2013, 08:08) *
There are many scale rulers for working out dimension for 1/32 I downloaded an app for my smartphone from woodland scenics which converts dimensions in scale it is available for iPhone and Android
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com...20&secid=61

It lets you choose a scale put in an actual dimension - eg say 7 feet and it tells you the scale size

There are other tools like this online as well if you don't have a smartphone.

I have made concrete type walls in the past by coating balsa wood in white glue and then coating with a very fine sand. When dry I paint grey and then dry brush

cheers
David




That is a cooool app!!!

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minus
post 27 Mar 2013, 11:01
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QUOTE (rallyP @ 26 Mar 2013, 21:55) *
I join myself to the question in the first post, what is the "best" material to use (as walls and ceilling) in a building whose walls are made of concrete?

I used plywood in the past, but it can't be the best solution (Balsawood did not exist in the right dimensions in the nearby store and maybe is a bit fragile). Posterboard infuriates me and does weird stuff when painted, maybe I using a bad technique when dealing with it. I wonder, what are your thoughts.



With cardboard, or other fragile materials, you could apply a mixture of pva glue and water to seal the surfaces. I would say 2 parts pva, and one part water.
Let it dry and you have almost plastic surface

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rallyP
post 27 Mar 2013, 21:27
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Minus, thanks. I will try that pva glue seal coat in the future.
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