LC Guide Collision Fix?, Has anyone noticed... Options

[drummer]

I suppose those of us who have a mixture of old and new LCs would be the only ones to know the difference, but I was fortunate to pick-up a replacement LC yesterday, which is of the new style; ie; Fixed exit flipper.

I was going to put this away in the cupboard as I believe the fixed exit flipper is a strategy to address the overload issue, and with outboard powered LCs this is of little apparent benefit to me.

But something caught my eye in the slot near the entry flipper just a couple of mm before the flippers leading edge.

I find there is now a little hump or rise*, standing proud of the inner rail wall, that happens to be the height of the thickness of the leading edge (if that makes sense).

I'd say this is a rather ingenious solution to the problem of having your chassis broken by slamming into the flipper.

I also notice this LC seems somehow more efficient than my others (is it quicker, quieter?) - will have to take a look at the board and report.

Question now is; can we emulate the fix on our older LCs or is it off to the shop and swallow the early adopter penalty.

It would seem there are 2 approaches; one is to remove the complete rail and then create the ( * let's call it a... ) 'nipple' with a punch or similar.
Probably difficult without damaging the curve of the rail.

Or, a light grind and quick, small drop of solder. A bit hit and miss, this approach, but perhaps not the end of the world if not perfect, ie could be reworked.

I suppose this is all bit difficult without photos and will charge the camera later to try some macro shots of the 'nipple'.

Finally, and for my money, I think the floating exit flipper gave a better driving line...

[RichG]

Hi D

Very interesting observations on the LC.

Had heard of the fixed out flipper but not the IN bump or improved operation.

If you can wake the camera up, nipple shots are always appreciated.

I think you are right in emulating it that removal of the rail may do more harm than good.

Can you get a grinder in there? If so your approach seems worth a try. Even if the solder wears away over time would probably last some time.

If you get a chance to take the bottom off and see if you can explain the improved operation that would also be interesting. They may just have changed the turns on the solenoids?

I have to say. I enjoy being an early adopter, and would hate to have missed the last year. However now is a great time to buy Digital Just about all the problems are solved. Except of course a fully functioning pit lane.

Happy New Year

Richard

[Tropi]

I have to say. I enjoy being an early adopter

I would have to add that a lot of other early adopters have enjoyed you being one too!

Ably encouraged and assisted by other dedicated members, you guys have made a meaningful difference to the digital lives of many users, way beyond the borders of UK and Europe. It's very much appreciated and I am sure, not least, by Scalextric themselves.

[drummer]

Warm words thanks Tropi, and yes I have to admit to being a cutting edge fanatic.

Watch your fingers.

PS: Rich, camera and nipples being warmed.



In thinking about Tropi's post a second time I realise that the last year has in fact been a fabulous experience in sharing and exploring ideas.
A lot of fun & new associations would have been missed if todays product had been released a year ago.


Happy New Year to the digital 'crew'.

This post has been edited by drummer: 31 Dec 2005, 13:48

[drummer]

Scalextric's nipple fix

[drummer]

Now the Fix.

(Of course, this only needs to be done on the rail on which the flipper sits when the LC is in the closed position).

We need just enough of a rise to 'lift' the guide blade onto the flipper.

Remove the plastic as shown


Once you have access to the bottom of the rails, you then need to remove the plastic behind to get a tool in there. (now we have nipples and tools! eek)


Done with a twist of long nose pliers;


Done with a twist if Xacto blade (better result - symmetrical)


This post has been edited by drummer: 2 Jan 2006, 04:49

[Xlot]

One more excellent contribution (I've lost count )

/ Beppe

[sax0607]

thanks drummer , i had noticed the lead-in lump on my two newer LC"s ,and although ,this has not been an issue for me , I think I will perform this fix in case any visitors or new car purchases
sax

[gdavison]

Hats off to Drummer ....

Great discovery

[RichG]

Great Stuff D.

I usually find that once you start thinking about ways of solving problems you come up with a better way.

Nipples are clearly visible in the pictures, and will add that little additional margin for error. Have you had enough use to confirm an improvement.

Am about to take out all my LC's in preparation for some testing with SportWorld, so will do the mod while they are out. Can't see myself wanting to run very long without Lane Changing.

I have not wired my changers for separate power yet so will do that at the same time.

The other "Mod" I want to do is to make connections to the opto pickups. This will be in preparation for them being connected to the Aux box for sector timing and better syncronisation of pace cars. Same technique will be used for the pitlane.
I think signals from the opto's will be more reliable than the current break tracks, although they will not give speed data.

There was a thread discussing a connector that would enable easy connection and removal of external power. I am wondering if an extension of that might allow connection to the opto's?

[idarroch]

There was a thread discussing a connector that would enable easy connection and removal of external power. I am wondering if an extension of that might allow connection to the opto's?

Hi Rich,

I used a stereo 3.5mm jack plug & switched socket on my LCs. If the plug is out, LC powered from track. If the plug is in, LC powered from plug. I used 3.5mm, as I could not find a 2.5mm version locally - it just fits under the track when rug racing (I cannot afford the space / materials for a fixed layout at the moment).

I am sure you could do something similar with the opto sensor.

Ian.

[drummer]

Hi Guys, tnx for the praise, kudos should got to Scalextric for thinking of an elegant solution.

Nipples are clearly visible in the pictures, and will add that little additional margin for error. Have you had enough use to confirm an improvement.

Ive driven most all of my cars - especially the ones that have been known to hit the flipper.

I'm in the middle of a track redesign in preparation for the pit lane pieces, and have done a good number of laps - Not one problem to report.

So yes I'd say if you have the 'older' LCs its well worth doing, the improvement is in having confidence I wont be destroying any more chassis...

And hopefully say goodbye to filing guide blades... ...we'll see.

I had to replace the factory guide that came with my Sauber Merc, no amount of filing would stop it from hitting the flipper. A really good test would see me re-install this and see what happens.

cheers

[drummer]

Rich, not had time to look inside my Rev2 LC, but when powering up, its the only one of 5 that flips into the closed position (Tested multiple times with all entry flippers midway between the rails).
Perhaps that solenoid has had some attention after all.

Will open it up when I can.

[RichG]

Thats interesting. Presumably only does it on power up? looks like they have modified the start up code to select straight on. Will not necessarily look any different inside.

There is another thread on here discussing how to keep the LC's shut if using with analog cars. What you could do, after the pulse to move the solenoid in one direction or another is to have a small residual current to keep the changer in position. Current needed to hold is much lower than to change.

This is what a Pinball machine does ( Thanks to Graeme for the link) to keep a flipper energised if you hold it up.

With the right code and a small change to the electronics it would be possible to have LC's that power up to straight on, return to straight on after a car has crossed, and then be held in position by a small residual current. MK3?


Nothing to do with the Rev2 LC, just prompted the thought.

[drummer]

Thats interesting. Presumably only does it on power up?

OUI

p.s, Havent run an analog car at home since Digital Day 1, thats sooo September 10.