Why won't my Scalextric car move?
Posted 04 August 2010 - 06:11 PM
I built a small oval test track out of scalextric sport analogue, tested this track with a Lewis hamilton F1 to make sure the track was fine. It was.
I then place the F430 on track, I press the trigger to make it go, but the bright red light on the powerbase goes dim and flickers, the car won't move. Hmm.
I place the Hamilton car behind the broken f430 and the hamilton car pushes the f430 round. I remove the Hamilton car and the f430 is able to go round on it's own steam, all this happened while the powerbase light flickers.
Then the f430 comes to a stop, the plug in the wall is clicking, and the powerbase light is out. I remove the f430 and use my testing Hamilton car, the same thing happens. I remove the power source from the base and then reatach it? It works fine again with the Hamilton car
the f430 won't move and has dim flickering powerbase light.
Can somebody explain this please:
Posted 04 August 2010 - 06:26 PM
Does your car carry a doner card?
Posted 04 August 2010 - 06:32 PM
Does the F430 feel free to move?
If you turn the car over can you move the rear wheels round easily without any binding
Is it new/under guarantee?
How do feel about opening her up?
Posted 04 August 2010 - 08:14 PM
You're lucky you didn't fry the whole thing. According to your description it is not only possible but absolutely sure your Ferrari causes a short cut.
Get your ohm-meter out and find the cause before you put that car back on the track.
Posted 07 August 2010 - 09:29 AM
I switched to a brand new braid, this did not make the car work, so it's not because some of the old braid was out of place.
The wheels turn just as easily as any of my other cars, when by hand.
As a last resort I could take it back to the shop, but how could I try and fix a shortcircuiting car?
Posted 07 August 2010 - 10:52 AM
Are you sure it isn't a digital car? Might sound stupid but...
Posted 07 August 2010 - 03:11 PM
Thing is this car was a runner just a month or two ago
This might sound stupid. but what is an electrical surpressor, are they the orange circles?
Posted 07 August 2010 - 03:55 PM
yes they are indeed the orange circles.As previously stated its time to take the top off to find the cause as its doubtfull that any shop would be interested in a refund after a couple of months of use..
Easy way to test is get two spare lenghts of wire and tape the throttle open then put two ends on the rails and the other two directly to the motor.
If the result is the same as before the motor is shot.If it revs well then the short is elsewhere.
Motors on the whole are ultra reliable and I have had only one that did not last very long and when it went awol after about a week it did indeed cause a short.
Posted 07 August 2010 - 04:29 PM
I'm not really confident about taking it all apart, ie I've never done it before so don't know what to do
Do I just rip the electricle surpressers out?
I have lengths of wire to attatch to the motor but do I remove the other wires first, this might be hard because they are welded to the motor. Is there a special way to remove the old wires.
Please excuse my concerns, it's just I don't want to further damage the car,
Posted 07 August 2010 - 04:34 PM
yes you can wire straight to the motor to test no need to remove anything.The welds you see are solder and you need to purchase a iron to tackle these should you need to remove them.
Posted 07 August 2010 - 06:39 PM
One of us may be local or there may be a local club that you can pop along to
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