Track Voltage. If you have variable
track voltage, the Challenger will work better at lower voltages.
13.8 V is ideal, but then the car is relatively easy to beat.
Increasing to 14.5 V makes it go much better, but does increase
the chance of the occasional de-slot.
The Challenger, when working, doesn't stop. This is most annoying
when you have de-slot or a pile up during a 'race' and the
Challenger comes around the bend at full speed into the de-slotted
car(s). It shows no mercy.
Work around: Add a momentary push
button switch in line with a closed circuit controller plug.
Basically replacing the supplied Challenger 'Smart Key' with you
own and having the switch cut the loop. This will stop the
Challenger and put in into 'creep' mode until it gets back to the
start line. Either let it come back or take it off and start it
again like before.
Setting-up to go:
Make sure the switch on the bottom of the car (Classic/Sport) is
set to the type of track most similar to that which you're using.
Before putting the Challenger car on the track, move the guide so
that it is sprung to one side completely. When putting the car on
the track about 30cm before the start line, with the car at an
angle of about 40 degrees to the track, place the guide in the
track (remember guide fully sprung to one side) and then let go of
the car with the guide in the slot. It will straighten up as it
gets to the start line.
Running in. This
car should work straight out the box, but a temperamental car will
run better after a little while. Running in the motor, tyres and
bearings can only be good for it.
Making it go faster:
Some run it on the 'classic' setting on
Sport track. It goes faster, without any problems.
Clean your track
Change the tires to
Merc DTM Slicks
Try Classic setting
on the Sport Track
We'll bring together useful information from the forum threads
in an attempt to to get you and you Challenger on the right track.
It has been said many times: "If all else fails, read the
This is so true and we find ourselves going back to the
instruction sheet to see what it says. Read
First things first:
Clean the track and tyres. How many times when you buy a
car does it tell you to clean the track and the tyres? The Challenger
instructions say so, so it must be an important factor. It is.
This is why: When you drive your 1:1 car you are constantly
adjusting the speed in accordance with the road surface and
conditions. Normally you go slower if you encounter gravel on the
road or something slippery. When the Challenger learns your track,
it remembers the condition of the track at that moment. If the
track gets dirty or the wheels get dirty, it doesn't take into
account the worsening conditions and ends up crashing out. Also
when it learns the track, it goes much slower and might not realize
that the track it dirty and slippery in places.
How: Clean the track with Alcohol,
window cleaner or your favorite track cleaning product. Clean the
tyres of the Challenger car by using stick tape or your favorite
tyre cleaning product.
Preparing the car. You
can loosen the body a little, sand the tyres and oil the bearings
as you would any other car. Make sure that the guide blade is in
good condition and the braids are clean and flat to the guide. If
the guide seems to come out to easily. take the guide out and use
a flat blade screw driver to open the neck of the guide
Tyres. The tyres
supplied don't grip that well.
Solution: Good results have been
achieved by swapping over to a set of Scalextric DTM Mercedes
Scalextric DTM Mercedes slicks -
Click for a larger view.
Guide. We've noticed that sometimes
the car will bounce out of it's slot especially on a long straight.
To prevent this, make the guide bigger by squeezing in a vice.
Line of sight. The Challenger car and the Gantry do not have to be in
view throughout the race. The gantry is used as a remote and
starts the car. All the brains are in the car. The car knows where
it must start and finish from the magnets under the track. Placing
the magnets 45mm behind the start, places the car just on the line
(measured from the center of magnetic force from the top of the
Cross curves and the
crossroads. The Challenger, when learning the track goes quite
slowly. The plastic inserts in the middle of the cross pieces make
it loose contact with the current and at that speed and without
enough momentum, the car stops.
Maximum length of
track: The Challenger memory is only suitable for tracks less
than 110 foot (33.5m) once exceeded the car slows down to its
learning pace and then resumes speed once it reaches the magnet
Start Stop Magnet placement: Make sure that the car is far
enough out of the corner before it meets the "stopping
magnets" so that the guide is perfectly straight. If the car
meets the magnets with the guide at an angle, problems mar arise.
Scalextric Challenger FAQ from the
Scalextric website: www.scalextric.co.uk
- Hints & Tips
is compatible with Scalextric Sport, Scalextric Classic,
SCX, Ninco and Carrera track systems.
process. It is not necessary to re-learn the circuit
if the car stops. Just let the car crawl up to the Start
Line and press the Fast or Slow 'Go' button again!
Ensure that the track surface is clean. Wipe over with a
damp cloth, then dry the track thoroughly with a lint free
Tyres. Clean the tyres of the challenger
car with a damp cloth and dry the tyres with a dry cloth.
contact with the road. Ensure that there are no bad
electrical connections, ill-fitting track connections,
flying leaps, hump-back bridges or any other reasons that
might cause the guide blade to loose constant electrical
connection with the track.
The car only communicates with the tower at the Start Line
when the car approaches/passes the tower.
- more Hints & Tips
CAR DOES NOT MOVE.
T1: HAS THE CAR BEEN PLACED ON TRACK AND ALLOWED TO MOVE
TO THE START LINE?
T2: IS THE POWER SUPPLY ON AT THE MAINS SOCKET?
T3: HAS THE TRANSFORMER BEEN PLUGGED INTO THE POWERBASE?
T4: HAS THE CORRECT challenger
KEY BEEN PLACED IN THE POWERBASE?
T5: IS THE KEY IN THE CORRECT LANE SOCKET?
T6: IS THE CAR LOCATED CORRECTLY IN THE SLOT?
Q: CAR DOES NOT MOVE WHEN LEARN PRESSED ON THE GANTRY.
T1: GANTRY IS TOO CLOSE OR TOO FAR AWAY. REFER TO
T2: GANTRY IS NOT POSITIONED CORRECTLY. SHOULD BE FACING
CAR. REFER TO INSTRUCTIONS.
Q3: CAR JUST CREEPS AROUND THE TRACK.
T1: THE CAR HAS NOT BEEN ALLOWED TO MOVE TO THE START
T2: THE CAR HAS BEEN PLACED BACK ON THE TRACK AFTER COMING
OFF. ALWAYS RETURN THE CAR TO THE START LINE. THIS RESETS
Q4: CAR SKIDS OFF TRACK WHEN RACING.
T1: FIRST CHECK TRACK SWITCH UNDER CAR. SPORT / CLASSIC.
SET TO CORRECT TRACK.
T2: IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THE TRACK AND THE CAR TYRES
(front and rear) ARE KEPT CLEAN AND FREE FROM DUST AND
DIRT. CLEAN FREQUENTLY. USE SELLOTAPE AS PER INSTRUCTIONS.
Q6: OTHER TRACKS CARRERA- SCX- NINCO ETC.
T1: THE SWITCH UNDER THE CAR CAN BE SET TO SUIT THESE
CONDITIONS ACCORDING TO THE RACERS REQUIREMENTS.
Q7: CAR CUTS OUT AND ROOF LIGHTS FLASH RAPIDLY.
T1: THIS IS BECAUSE THE HEAT SENSOR ON THE MOTOR HAS
TRIPPED AND THE CAR REQUIRES TO BE RESTED TO COOL. THE
ROOF LIGHTS WILL FLASH AT TWICE NORMAL SPEED. THIS CAN
TAKE 5 OR 6 MINUTES DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH RACING
BEFOREHAND HAS TAKEN PLACE.
RAPID FLASHING OF ROOF LIGHTS CAN ALSO TAKE PLACE IF IN
THE UNLIKELY EVENT OF THE CAR DEVELOPING A FAULT.
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