Optional tips:

Track Voltage. If you have variable track voltage, the Challenger will work better at lower voltages. 13.8 V is ideal, but then the car is relatively easy to beat. Increasing to 14.5 V makes it go much better, but does increase the chance of the occasional de-slot.


Cut-off. The Challenger, when working, doesn't stop. This is most annoying when you have de-slot or a pile up during a 'race' and the Challenger comes around the bend at full speed into the de-slotted car(s). It shows no mercy.
Work around: Add a momentary push button switch in line with a closed circuit controller plug. Basically replacing the supplied Challenger 'Smart Key' with you own and having the switch cut the loop. This will stop the Challenger and put in into 'creep' mode until it gets back to the start line. Either let it come back or take it off and start it again like before.


Setting-up to go: Make sure the switch on the bottom of the car (Classic/Sport) is set to the type of track most similar to that which you're using.

Before putting the Challenger car on the track, move the guide so that it is sprung to one side completely. When putting the car on the track about 30cm before the start line, with the car at an angle of about 40 degrees to the track, place the guide in the track (remember guide fully sprung to one side) and then let go of the car with the guide in the slot. It will straighten up as it gets to the start line.


Running in. This car should work straight out the box, but a temperamental car will run better after a little while. Running in the motor, tyres and bearings can only be good for it.

Making it go faster: Some run it on the 'classic' setting on Sport track. It goes faster, without any problems.

We'll bring together useful information from the forum threads in an attempt to to get you and you Challenger on the right track.

It has been said many times: "If all else fails, read the instructions." 

This is so true and we find ourselves going back to the instruction sheet to see what it says. Read the instructions.

First things first:

Clean the track and tyres. How many times when you buy a car does it tell you to clean the track and the tyres? The Challenger instructions say so, so it must be an important factor. It is. This is why: When you drive your 1:1 car you are constantly adjusting the speed in accordance with the road surface and conditions. Normally you go slower if you encounter gravel on the road or something slippery. When the Challenger learns your track, it remembers the condition of the track at that moment. If the track gets dirty or the wheels get dirty, it doesn't take into account the worsening conditions and ends up crashing out. Also when it learns the track, it goes much slower and might not realize that the track it dirty and slippery in places.
How: Clean the track with Alcohol, window cleaner or your favorite track cleaning product. Clean the tyres of the Challenger car by using stick tape or your favorite tyre cleaning product.


Preparing the car. You can loosen the body a little, sand the tyres and oil the bearings as you would any other car. Make sure that the guide blade is in good condition and the braids are clean and flat to the guide. If the guide seems to come out to easily. take the guide out and use a flat blade screw driver to open the neck of the guide


Tyres. The tyres supplied don't grip that well. 
Solution: Good results have been achieved by swapping over to a set of Scalextric DTM Mercedes slicks.

Scalextric DTM Mercedes slicks - Click for a larger view.

Guide. We've noticed that sometimes the car will bounce out of it's slot especially on a long straight. To prevent this, make the guide bigger by squeezing in a vice.

Cross curves and the crossroads. The Challenger, when learning the track goes quite slowly. The plastic inserts in the middle of the cross pieces make it loose contact with the current and at that speed and without enough momentum, the car stops.

Start Stop Magnet placement: Make sure that the car is far enough out of the corner before it meets the "stopping magnets" so that the guide is perfectly straight. If the car meets the magnets with the guide at an angle, problems mar arise.