[Guest]

Had a bit of a mad moment and bought a 'Racer' Ferrari 412P TEAM Scuderi Fillipinetti LM 1967 kit. Would any one know what glue to use to put it together?
Don't want to use super glue because it leaves *********** stains behind.

any advice would be very welcome

Thank you

 

[daleg]

I used to use plastic weld, but am not sure if this would be the stuff to use nowadays or even if its still available?!?!?!?!?!?!

 

[John Cahill]

hi,
for slot car kitbashing I always use 2 part epoxy, in the 5 minute variety. it holds really well, and is easy to build up for adding strenth to joints (adding more inside the car, behind the joint line, for further support). meanwhile, I have heard others rave about Plastic Weld (re: daleg)...so I assume it is still available also.

good luck,
John

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the info John

 

[MAF]

I've had no problems using 2 part epoxy, standard araldite or araldite crystal clear is what I use.

 

[abie321]

I would use a 'white' glue for the screens (the rear is tricky to fit),and in the main 2 part epoxy. I have used the thickened super glue, but I then use an activator which causes the super glue to set instantly..... alwasy be careful of the superglue fumes as these can cause screens to go opaque as the fumes are powerful and can react with the model.....

 

[P4Replica]

QUOTE (Domejuddv10 @ 9 Sep 2004, 14:34)Had a bit of a mad moment and bought a 'Racer' Ferrari 412P TEAM Scuderi Fillipinetti LM 1967 kit. Would any one know what glue to use to put it together?
Don't want to use super glue because it leaves *********** stains behind.

'Zappo' is a de-gassed superglue specifically designed for modellers, that does not leave any of the characteristic white marks. Haven't used it myself, yet, but it was recommended to me by one of the UK's top 1:43 professional kit builders. However, he still uses white PVA glue for transparencies - just in case !

PS - Apologies if this post screws up - it's my first on this forum, and it's a bit different to the V-Bulletin format I normally post in !

Sorted for you! and welcome to the Forum!

 

[P4Replica]

Yup. It screwed up ! What the heck !

 

[howmet tx]

You didn't screw up so bad! You got the information across- this Zappo sounds interesting. Where do you get it?
Thanks, P4, and welcome to the gang. I love your choice of name!
Are you one of those full-size Kit Car builders that drives a VW beetle with a fibreglass P4 replica shell on it? I'd love to surprise my neighbours with one of those.
Aw, what the heck.

Cheers!

 

[Mr Croker]

I reckon a can of lighter fluid and burn baby burn!

Spraymount will provide you hours more rebuild time

I'll look forward to seeing it!

Mr C

 

[Guest]

Thanks Mr Croker for the good idea on the spraymount!

You should leave lighter fuel well alone, remember my 956 at Molesey with said V12 went up in flames, not unlike the F1 Manardi at the weekend L.O.L

Your welcome to see just the box that my NEW 'Racer' Ferrari 412P came in if you like!

(My Cartrix Honda is quick with HRS chassis, try it Wednesday night at TTR)

Till then Mr Croker

 

[Ecurie Martini]

QUOTE for slot car kitbashing I always use 2 part epoxy, in the 5 minute variety. it holds really well, and is easy to build up for adding strenth to joints (adding more inside the car, behind the joint line, for further support)

This can be effective but the strength-to-weight ration of straight resin is only fair. If you use a bit of fabric ebedded in a layer of resin- a very light fiberglass or even a bit of old nylon stocking - you can use a thin layer and achieve outstanding strength.

EM

 

[Mr Croker]

One little flame!

Anyway it seems to go much better now for it!

 

[John Cahill]

Ecurie Martini is absolutely correct about adding a sheer fabric for greater strength for the weight than epoxy alone. I smiled at first, imagining a crash that would require such strength...but I suppose in serious competition the crashes can be pretty dramatic! You can also layup symetric pairs of fabric oriented +/- 45 deg for even better stress resistance.

On another note, in comparing 2 part resins to cyanoacrylates (superglues), the thing that comes to mind is the greater toughness of the resins, they will withstand a lot of loading and with a little compliance, which is nice. Meanwhile superglues are particularly good for little parts that you would rather have break off in a crash and reglue (not implying the superglues are weak, but they are more brittle). With resin, the glue may hold and damage the little part.

I noticed the suggestions about using a special glue for windows, but wasn't sure that any brands were mentioned (I probably missed them). Just in case though, Model Masters makes a nice one called Clear Parts Cement and Window Maker. It is fairly strong and dries completely clear. In a serious accident, as with the superglue, the windshield make come off, but is easily reglued.

cheers,
John

 

[Guest]

Thank you John for the info on the window glue, and for the rest of the members how posted for this item, great response.

.........now to find time to build it!