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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there,

I recently bought an 1/32 Airfix slot body of a Mercedes 125W

Can anybody tel me if there are more 1/32 pre war Airfix models?
Does anybody have a complete model of the Mercedes 125W? I wonder if it's possible to see the inside of that model like gear and motor?
And my last question are these models common or hard to find?

Cheers,
Danny
 

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Hello,
The Merc is very hard to find indeed!
There was also the Auto-Union. The Auto-Union often appears on Ebay.
Both were available as Series one models & kits.
I`m sure that you`ll do a beautiful job on it!
Cheers.
Kev




original running gear,


 

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Hi Danny

There were three prewar cars made by Airfix , the Mercedes that you have a Auto Union Type C and a Mercedes W154. I found all of them on Ebay over a couple of years and they are getting harder to find and more expensive now. Here are some photos of some of my early work built to race.

Regards Ken



 

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Nice pick up Danny, always one of my fav Mercedes racers. As the others have pointed out there are 2 other Airfix/MRRC cars that fit into that same catagory .. they are ALL nice, and well worth getting.

The original motor/gear set ups shown in loosesalute (Kev's) reply are original, but i think even Kev would admit they are not the best runners with that set up ... OK, but certainly not great.

If you are not fussy about the car being original, and actually want to race that nice Merc when it's built, then a little work will bring out a good little racer. That relpy from mmmoose1 shows the 3 cars with later gears, and NC1's fitted .... maybe Ken would be happy to mention what mod work he did so you can do the same Danny.
 

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QUOTE (mmmoose1 @ 10 Nov 2011, 19:17) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Danny

There were three prewar cars made by Airfix , the Mercedes that you have a Auto Union Type C and a Mercedes W154. I found all of them on Ebay over a couple of years and they are getting harder to find and more expensive now. Here are some photos of some of my early work built to race.

Regards Ken

Nice builds Ken ... NC1's are a perfect motor for these car.


Cheers, Michael
 

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Lovely builds, Ken, and the W125 and Auto Union must be a lot quicker than the basic cars, as Mirrorman says. The original "cube" motors are nice museum pieces but not up to racing.
It's a dilemma whether to paint the W125 silver or leave it in the original rather attractive pearl grey-white.
Danny: If you want the original wheel-axle units, the best source is probably Phil Smith and his scaleslotcars.com site. They can be used with a modern motor. I'm not sure what Ken has done but some people have glued them in. If the wheel-axle units are not listed on Phil's site you could ask him direct or through Slotforum.
Early Auto Union wheel-axle units would probably fit too (they'd just need painting -- they're usually yellow). The Auto Union came in two types. The early ones had twin-peg guides and the Mk II a blade guide with "keyhole" aperture in the body. The rear axle bearings and mounts are different too. I'm not sure about the Merc. Maybe Kev can explain. Mine has the later cockpit and driver but the old twin-peg guide (like Kev's), so perhaps they didn't change the guide on the Merc.
The W154 is from a different range, MRRC rather than Airfix, from when (I think) MRRC was a subsidiary of Airfix but produced completely different cars and a wide range of higher-quality components.
Rob J
 

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A good point, Pertti, and I have had some fun with them. I should have said "not up to racing against many others". I suppose they're at least as good as Scalex FJs, though the FJ 1:1 cars are from a different era, the early 1960s. Some Politoys have similar motors but are models of even later F1 cars. And the Airfix cube motors are apparently inconsistent. Still, I'd be happy to be proved wrong. What else would you have on your grid?
Rob J
 

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I would race them against other cube motored Airfix cars, really...maybe FJ, haven't tried that yet. I definitely agree that the motor would be frustrating in club meetings! Fleischmanns, for example, have slow but powerful motors and would probably outaccelerate Airfix easily.
I wonder how common it is to replace the cube powerplants nowadays? It really makes me want to keep mine untouched, out of pity for the poor vintage things.
 

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Hi Guys,

Thanks very much for the information. You all got me thinking, I think that I'm going to wait until I got the original mechanism of the car. Why make it your self difficult when there's a perfect system available, and I agree that the model should be approached as a restoration project rather then a scratch build. Pertti jarla has a good point, it's worth to stay with the original motor, and to me the joy slot racing is more the building, that it runs smooth and it's ecstatic looks are like the real race cars, rather than being the fastest on track with the most powerful motor.
I think a nice paint job and Perter Sussex wheels are going to be my only extra contribution that I'm going to ad.
So by this, should there be anybody out there, who by any chance, has got the original interior parts and who want to help me out please contact me with a PN.QUOTE (Rob J @ 11 Nov 2011, 03:44) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Danny: If you want the original wheel-axle units, the best source is probably Phil Smith and his scaleslotcars.com site. They can be used with a modern motor. I'm not sure what Ken has done but some people have glued them in. If the wheel-axle units are not listed on Phil's site you could ask him direct or through Slot forum.
Rob J
@Rob
I've tried to look up Phil Smith on the Forums member list, but nothing came up. And on his web side there's no contact link. Do you have his contact information or what pseudo name he uses here on the Forum?

Cheers,
Danny
 

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Sounds good, Danny. I left mine as original, with a cube motor, and painted only a few parts like the grille and cockpit. The standard braid is very narrow and usually needs teasing out, though I vaguely recall there are other solutions.

Back to Kev, Mirrorman and others: What was the evolution of the Airfix W125? Was there a first version with open cockpit and 3/4 driver, and/or a full Mk II with keyhole guide? Mine and Kev's are sort of Mk one and a half in Airfix terms, with early twin-peg guides and Mk II-type closed cockpit panels.
All the other contemporary Airfixes I've seen, such as the Cooper and Porsche, seem to have come in one form or the other.
Rob J
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
First of all I want to thank everyone who helped me to get all the part to restore the car. A very big Thank you.


I've been looking at the model, and I've got a small dilemma in how far to go with the restoration.

I defenatly don't want to change anything to the intern mechanism and motor. The wheels are going to be from Peter Sussex. thats alreaddy decided.

The body is at the moment an unpainted body (very light green pastel).
My mind is made up, that it's going to be silver, like the real cars where.

The dilemma sits in the detailing of the body.
Should I open up the cokpit, or should I do like Ken(mmmoose1), keep it original and just paint it matt black

Also the feul lid is absend and the lines in the body aren't detailed.
Al this detailig isn't a problem for me to do, the question is, should I do it with this model?

Love to get some opinions


Cheers,
Danny
 

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Danny: I suggest not cutting open the cockpit (except perhaps at the front), partly because you're keen on originality and partly because the motor is directly under it and you wouldn't be able to fit much more of a driver. We know your skills from other builds such as the Bugatti, so perhaps you could cut the cockpit enough to give the driver arms and fit a full steering wheel if you wish.
As for cockpit colour, I've seen a tan or light brown (probably gloss) which looked good. You could use a darker colour if you gave the driver arms, like forum member ferrari1950, who did a good remodelling with both blue and matt black on the existing cockpit. See http://www.slotforum.com/forums/blog/ferra...?showentry=1215
Looking at the cockpit-motor positions today makes my earlier question seem silly. The Airfix Merc could never have had a seat and threequarter-length driver. The "Series I" models that did were all of rear/mid-engined cars with the driver closer to the front: the Auto Union, Cooper, Porsche, etc.
Rob J
 

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Hi Danny

After taking a good look at my Merc and doing the clay test to see how much clearance there was above the motor. I found that you will have about 4 mm of space to work with above a block motor to put a driver in and a Mac Pinches driver fits the spot nicely. I do not know how much you want to mix original toy car to model car but with the stock front steering suspension and the block motor I would leave it alone and build it as stock as possible then dress it up with a good set of wheels. I did cut the lower half of the front of the body off right at the front axle and glued the two nose pieces together and filled in the seam to give the shell a less of a toy car look. On my car I used a Slot Classic/PCS front axle block to mount the guide and the front axle, I was also able to keep the Ninco guide completely under the car and out of sight. Go back and look at the photos of my version of the car and decide how far you want to go. The fuel cap was flush mounted on the headrest and streamlined into the tail of the car so all it will take is some scribed lines to make that.

Cheers Ken
 
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