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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I'm a fledgling scratch builder and was wondering if anyone had any good pictures of scratch built chassis that DO NOT utilize soldered joints/connections ? Please don't misunderstand, as I respect all the hard work and skill of the solder designs, its just that I prefer the "factory" look of non soldered chassis brass or plastic just not soldered.

thanks, Chet
 

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Graham Windle
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Hi chet I have done some styrene chassis which i think will fill the bill Ill have to search out the post and add a link I,ll addit later tonight
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Grahm, I just saw Rocky's from STING RAY RACING's awsome styrene chassis after I posted my request.
Chet
 

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QUOTE (red73mustang @ 18 Feb 2004, 09:59 PM)Thanks Grahm, I just saw Rocky's from STING RAY RACING's awsome styrene chassis after I posted my request.
Chet
where where where where???



//peter
 

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thanks graham and chet for the info, not being used to build this kind of stuff it helps to see some pic...


//peter
 

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im half way thru building a bus where i got sooo p**** off with soldering half way thru i put all the running gear on with araldite!!!! so far it looks like it will work ok!
ill put pix on as soon as it finishes drying!!! oh yeh and after i move the front axel forwards 1cm!!
i put it in the wrong place
 

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I'm building a carbon fibre chassis for the World Proxy race and aralditeing and screwing everything on. I'm building a load up, so if you want one give me a shout @ [email protected] Don't know how much they will cost yet, but they will accept a Slot.It motor mount so you can put whatever motor you like in it. They also flex a bit so the motor/back axel are semi independanmt from the body (mounted at the sides). Designed for a Ninco Callaway, but wheel base could be fitted between 78mm and 88mm roughly.

Would anybody else be interested in buying this chassis?

Carbon Fibre Chassis

If so, e-mail me.

Lotus
 

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Cost = £10 plus postage or $18 plus postage.

Get your orders in by Friday 5th and I'll be able to bring the to Pheonix if you are going. Otherwise, I might be able to hand deliver if you are on my 'circuit'...

Email me [email protected]

Lotus
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all of the replys and the picks fellas Where can I find "Araldite" ? Is it a European thing ? Is it as strong as say "Black Max" adhisive from Loc-tight ?

Chet
 

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You can also build brass chassis without soldering if you want. I made my first brass chassis this way. You start with a sheet of brass, and then just bend it 90 degrees along the sides to create a U shape, then drill holes for the axles, and make a cut out for the motor. Then glue on some kind of guide mount. I even superglued brass "axle holder uprights", on to a brass sheet and it was strong enough for racing! I'll see if I can find some pics...

Toby
 

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I found some old pics. This is my first brass chassis. I glued the pieces together with superglue. A bit of sawing and fileing was done too as you might imagine, since the whole middle section is from a solid 3mm piece of brass.


This one it from an Austin Healey Sprite. Here I used the bending technique. And then glued on an old guide mount from a slaughtered Scaley side car.


This is the chassis from my Airfix E-type, It uses the bending technique too, although here I've bendt each axle mount separately. The hard thing with this is getting the axle holes exactly right, position wise.


 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks Toby, that last chassis is exactly the one Im looking for. Now If we could only design a "pattern" or template that showed where all of the cuts and bends go we ( we, As if I deserve credit!), might just have something here !

Thanks again, Chet

 

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Ok, glad you liked it. I don't have any scetch, and since it's very car and equipment specific I'll try to describe how I do it instead.
I usually just get started by measuring the wheelbase, and then put the wheels on axles. I then shorten the axles until I get the right track for the specific car. Then I measure the distance between the inside of the hubs, and from that you get the width of the chassis (at the wheels). If you then subtract twice the thickness of your brass sheet, you have the flat base width of the chassis (make this just a little narrower to compensate for uneven bending, since it's easier adding washers than fileing of material). That's where you draw a line for the bending. It's always good to draw a centre line down the chassis on your sheet of brass before you start, and then work from that. Then mark the guide hole and the positioning of the axles and the motor. If you then do it like me and mount the chassis to the underpan of the body you've pretty much gotta do your bending before you can drill the axle holes, because the bending process is a bit unprecise. I do it using a vise grip, some steel profiles and a hammer. Now it's time to do some measuring as of where you want the wheels hightwise. Just mark the position on the side and then drill. Unless you've got a super low chassis you also have to cut out a hole for the motor.
É voila! You've made a brass chassis without soldering

And just a little classic reminder: measure twice and drill once


If you do want a specific scetch for the E-type using Ninco wheels, I'll see if I can put one together for you.

Toby
 
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