1/32 Vintage Revell comes back to life

13808 Views 66 Replies 16 Participants Last post by MrFlippant, Oct 22, 2011

Mike Buettner

Discussion Starter · Jul 31, 2011 (Edited by Moderator)

I'm reviving my 40 year old 1/32 scale Revell set. 55 feet of track on a light weight 5'X12' torsion box table in my garage. The table will be on an electric winch that will raise up to the ceiling. I've selected a layout and am now about half way finished building the table.

Track layout

Test of 1/4" Ventura tape on track

Test of soldering brass strip into track for power tap

I pulled the stock Revell contact rail out of the track and cut a notch in it

Brass strip under track. From here I can solder a wire on

Track numbered and awaiting table

Baltic birch plywood for table top and bottom

Taping tool for laying down tape. Sweet!

Pins on bottom of taping tool slide in track to assure easy alignment of tape on track

Laying out the 5'X12' torsion box table

Ripping the ribs for the torsion box. I don't have a table saw so I built a sled for my circular saw. Now I get nice straight consistent cuts

Pile of ribs. Main ribs (2 - 12' and 5 - 5') are 1X 1 3/4" KD pine. Secondary ribs will be 1/4" ply.

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41 - 60 of 67 Posts

Mike Buettner

Discussion Starter · #41 · Aug 31, 2011

This is taking some time. Finally tidied up the bottom of the table. All primed and ready for top coat. Had a problem using Bondo to fill nail holes... not enough hardener. Had to scrape it off. Live and learn. Used Elmers Wood Filler and it was superb. Access holes are for wiring. End of table recess is power connection to PS. Also ran lots of pull strings in case I add wiring later.

The slab.

Acces holes for one set of drivers stations and power tap to track.

Recess for power connection. There will be a metal plate screwed in the recess with Banana plugs mounted in it for connection. I recessed them so that the bottom of the table is smooth when raised up. It will be at 6'6" but I don't want to take the chance of knocking anything off.

Main terminal block and access for second set of drivers station and power tap.

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Ember

· #42 · Aug 31, 2011

That's one super sweet job you're doing Mike. It probably puts the wiring looms of most home tracks to shame. Very professional.

Embs

MrFlippant

· #43 · Aug 31, 2011

No kidding! That's one classy track. I bet he'd be stiff competition for some of those other custom track builders out there. The things he's doing here could be done with any track system. Clearly he's a superb craftsman, so I would imagine routing track would come with ease as well. If he ever wants to make money on these, I bet he could. ;-)

abie321

· #44 · Aug 31, 2011

Fantastic workmanship - I stand in awe!!

Mike Buettner

Discussion Starter · #45 · Aug 31, 2011

Thanks for the great feedback. I'm happy. Never did anything like this before.

Mike Buettner

Discussion Starter · #46 · Aug 31, 2011

Best of all the torsion box design works. Undetectable (to the eye) flex when it is lifted from any side or corner. Stays nice and flat and still very light for the size.

Mike Buettner

Discussion Starter · #47 · Sep 3, 2011

Table is finished other than the wood trim around the perimeter. A couple days for drying and I finally get to lay track!

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Mike Buettner

Discussion Starter · #48 · Sep 3, 2011

Now the question is do I clean the track to the point of removing all the old rubber?

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loosesalute

· #49 · Sep 3, 2011

I wouldn`t...it`ll add to the old charm of your track.
Cheers.
Kev.

Mike Buettner

Discussion Starter · #50 · Sep 4, 2011

I think I have finalized the layout. Just working on the elevation changes. I will need 4 6" pieces of straight track. They are hard to find. Missed some on eBay last week. I can always make the from extra regular straight track.

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loosesalute

· #51 · Sep 4, 2011

Starting to really look the part now Mike!
Cheers,
Kev.

Mike Buettner

Discussion Starter · #52 · Sep 4, 2011

Thanks Kev! I was getting anxious for today. Big relief to get to this point.

Mike Buettner

Discussion Starter · #53 · Sep 5, 2011

While cleaning the track and snugging up track connections I realize I had swapped left to right 2 of the high banked transition pieces. They have very slightly different angles of both the high banked attachment end and in the borders (aprons). I set them right but couldn't get the layout to work - angles and all. Went back t the original layout. The differences are slight in the guide channel and contract strips.

I love plastic track for it's flexibility. And at 40 years old this stuff is in great shape. I've cracked a few pieces being too aggressive trying to pieces apart but no big deal.

Brad Korando

· #54 · Sep 5, 2011

The track is looking really nice Mike. Do you ahve any plans to install a border around the table to prevent the cars from taking a trip to the floor? Clear plexiglass would be a nice look for very clean table you've come up with.

Nice work, keep it up!
Brad

Mike Buettner

Discussion Starter · #55 · Sep 5, 2011

Never thought about plexi. Nice idea. I was thinking about 3/8" knotty pine but now I'm going to check out plexi.

Mike Buettner

Discussion Starter · #56 · Sep 5, 2011

I scored some nice 1/8" veneer from my neighbor. Going to use it for the elevations.

Mike Buettner

Discussion Starter · #57 · Sep 9, 2011

Started screwing down the track. Still need to make the risers to support the banked turns and the overpasses. Cut down some straight pieces to make everything fit nicely.

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sealevel

· #58 · Sep 11, 2011

Very nice work!

Just to remind me... this is 1/32 scale right? Or is this older track a different scale?
Also, what are the dimensions of your table?

Very clever how you cut down the track... remove the rails, take centre out of the track, reinsert shortened rails.
Looks so easy!

Thanks again for sharing!
Cheers!

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Mike Buettner

Discussion Starter · #59 · Sep 14, 2011

Thanks sealevel!

1/32 scale is correct. But Revell track seems to be a bit wider than other plastic track. The table is 5'X12'.

The track is surprising easy to cut down. The metal rails are held in place with a few bent metal tabs. Takes a minute to pop them out. The plastic itself I cut on my bandsaw with a wood blade. Nice clean cut. Razor saw works well too. Then cut down the rails with my Dremel, solder together, glue the track and reassemble. Right now I am taking a squeeze section and cutting it lengthwise. Then flip one half over and I have a short ess.

Mike

sealevel

· #60 · Sep 14, 2011 (Edited by Moderator)

Mike,

By "Short ess" do you mean the famous "Lane Swerve Chicane"?
(Link #1 to Lane Swerve Chicane)
(Link #2 to Lane Swerve Chicane)
(Link #3 to Lane Swerve Chicane)

Cheers!

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