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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
On my track I put some figure to decorate, I decided to "build" them my self strating with 1/35 military guys of plastic .
Here I show you the evolution of one of those guys , I choosed a relative simple example, but this can be done nearly to any plastic militar !

The Base model


First , cuting the guns


then quit all military accesories from the body , I use the "dremel" to do this.


Separate the body from the flat base (this is optional but I thing it looks much better, and is more dificult to know that it was a militar before
)


With sandpaper, dremel, and hot stuf to fuse plastic, we tranform the helm to an haircut (or to a cap , it's easier)


On the end to this guy I changed a bit the arm position because I used more tiem the same base!


To make it better finish I pass it a bit inside the fire of a lighter (1 or 2 seconds) and maybe modeling a bit with the finger ... (this is delicate and dificult to explain , but important)
 

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That is a very impressive sequence of examples and tips.

Thanks for setting them up on the forum. Very nice.


... off to get myself a bag of toysoldiers now then!

and a dremel...


//peter
 

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could these be set up as a form resource???
Would be great I think!



//peter
 

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Good grief ...more defence cut backs


Walks off singing hippy song "Where have all the soldiers gone...long time passing?"


Great job my friend, they fitted in really well with your scenery.
 

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Here's a thought...How about a Lee Ermey figure for race control?
Lee Ermey was the drill instructor in Full Metal Jacket.

Mark.
 

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Nah, he` a Teddy Bear compared to `Bill the Drill`, Coldstream Guards Drill Instructor I had take me thru basic training. Very scarey man he was
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
One more thing ...
I use a lot something to work my plastic figures, but don't know how is called in english ...

this :

a Pyrographer ??

It' does miracles !
To fuse the plastic this have the ideal temperature , to pass an helmet to hair cut or to move feet
...
 

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Watch out for the fumes from smouldering plastic ,you kiddies. Sometimes the figures are rip offs of old Airfix 1/32 figures. At least two of them above are from the Afrika Korps and Japanese Infantry sets, probably spun out in some Asian location. Sometimes they are not too fussy what goes into the `plastic` I`ve heard some grim stories about what kind of fumes are given off so take care.
 

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mmm. jonny is correct - should have mentioned that myself - be careful and do NOT breath in any of the fumes - it is VERY probable that plastic materials are creating seriously dangerous fumes. This does not depend on manufacturer - unless they specifically 'bragg' about their 'environmentally safe' plastic you can take any 'smoke' or 'smell' from 'burnt' or 'melted' plastic as genuinly poisonous.


//peter
 

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@ Neo:

Just a question: do you give the figures and undercoat layer?
If so, what do you use for undercoat?

G.
 

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Just to nip in on this one....soft plastic figures need both washing in soapy water and then coating in a thinned down mix of PVA and water to make a clean surface. and a more solid base for painting , otherwise the paint flakes off in time. You are best undercoating in white before painting. I`ve always used Humbrol or where you are, Revell paints to do the job
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
personaly I painted directly on the plastic figure with acrylics paints ... And used most of time the background plastic color to give "effects" ... when totaly dry (72 hours to dont have any bad surprise) I pass 1 coat of PVA 50/50 water.
 

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It all depends how much you handle the figures. I am a wargamer too and have a figure collection that is nearing 20,000 figures, all of which I painted myself. I was and still am I suppose, a profesional figure painter and make a living from it. Trust me my old plastic figures that I painted onto directly are looking grim. I am a member of the British Model Soldier Society and IPMS and have picked up these tips from far more experienced painters than myself.

It also helps to gloss varnish the figures first, let it dry properly then apply a matt coat over the top
 
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