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I am curious. I enjoy magless 1/32. HO scale is all mags and is too small for me personally. I have seen the new 1/43 cars and they look good. However if I were to go for some 1/43 it would need to behave a bit like 1/32 and have some other advantages so a few questions;-

Will 1/43 run magless and drift much like 1/32?
If I uses scaley track would I need to add borders like I do for 1/32 or would the track be wide enough without?
Could the cars be chipped with the scaley chips?

Looking for interesting comments not an not us vs them.
 

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Just a word to say HO doesn't have to be "all mag" we race HO cars without traction magnets and I've made a non magnetic HO track, the cars handle in a very similar way to 1:32 non-mag cars .
 

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i had the same question when i started with 1:43, drifting is not a problem with the right car, possibly more tricky to control because of the lack of power in the motor, an i am talking about wood tracks which are smoother too, the things are tiny..more than you expect i doubt very much you´ll need extra track for tail outs..chipping ?no idea..i´m sure some of the proper 1:43 tuners will give you a better answer

good luck sig
 

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Joel LeNoir
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Chipping? Most definitely. I am in the middle of a routed track powered by a apb. Both chips will fit. F1 are the best choice for me as I am opening up the windows and placing drivers inside. Power? That depends on what motor and gears you used. Can be just as powerful as 1/32.
 

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Hi Ushcha, I've been building 1/32 cars for many years but, when I was deciding on a new track for my workshop, and frustrated with the amount of track I could fit into the space I had, I discovered 1/43!

It's a great scale, the cars are not too small to all look the same at speed, there's room for scratchbuilt chassis with full interiors and they run just like 1/32. I built a Jaguar MK7 recently and being a tall and narrow car getting the handling right was a challenge but the same principles apply to set-up as they would do to a 1/32 car. After adding weight and ensuring the tyres where all true and removing any sloppiness from moving parts it runs great now and drifts around corners very well.

I plan to build my track in the New Year and can fit so much more track in the space I have so really pleased I made the move from 1/32.
 

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When it comes to slot car handling, size (rather than scale) matters (given an equal level of chassis development)
For example a slot car with about 64mm wheelbase and around 36mm track happens to be about right for a 1/32 Mini and a 1/43 NASCAR.
That's going to handle rather the same with either body on it (although the body weight / c of g height will make some differance)

Short cars are inherently less stable than longer ones (I won't go into the physics of that here). There are pros and cons to more stability. Short ones tend to be more difficult to hold in a steady drift round corners but also means the short ones can more readily turn into corners.

But of course there is another variable. A good chassis will give a large improvements in handling in the same size car. There's been a lot of chassis development in 1/32 and 1/24 over the years, not so much in 1/43. There's been a lot more work done on the larger 1/32 chassis (Le Mans cars etc.) than on Mini size cars, so there's a lot more knowledge about what works in the larger cars. I guess there is quite a lot of scope for more chassis development in 1/43.
 

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Carrera Go is available in digital, so why not give their sets a go?
No harm putting borders on if you like your cars to slide.
I have both a vintage 1/32 Scaley layout & a vintage 1/40 Jouef layout.
The difference between the old 1/40 & 1/32 cars I run compared to the modern stuff, is that they were designed to be more stable as no cars had magnets fitted then.
Both scales slide out on the corners exactly the same. In the context of old slot cars, size is definately an irrelevance.
Cheers,
Kev.
 

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QUOTE (300SLR @ 9 Dec 2011, 11:56) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>When it comes to slot car handling, size (rather than scale) matters (given an equal level of chassis development)
For example a slot car with about 64mm wheelbase and around 36mm track happens to be about right for a 1/32 Mini and a 1/43 NASCAR.
That's going to handle rather the same with either body on it (although the body weight / c of g height will make some differance)

Short cars are inherently less stable than longer ones (I won't go into the physics of that here). There are pros and cons to more stability. Short ones tend to be more difficult to hold in a steady drift round corners but also means the short ones can more readily turn into corners.

But of course there is another variable. A good chassis will give a large improvements in handling in the same size car. There's been a lot of chassis development in 1/32 and 1/24 over the years, not so much in 1/43. There's been a lot more work done on the larger 1/32 chassis (Le Mans cars etc.) than on Mini size cars, so there's a lot more knowledge about what works in the larger cars. I guess there is quite a lot of scope for more chassis development in 1/43.
I fully understand the concept of stability & wheelbase, which is one reason I haven't jumped to 1/43. My ideal of a good chassis is one that is predictable and easy to drive. Not necessarily faster. In fact, you CAN get too fast (see HO cars w/strong traction mags). Improvements, to me, would be things like: better meshing gears, rounder tires & wheels, less slop in axles & bushings, etc. I.e. tighter, smoother running, quieter. In this regard, how does no-mag 1/43 compare to no-mag HO, and no-mag 1/32? Assuming all cars tuned for no-mag.
 

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Joel LeNoir
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I am working on a 1/43 chassis. Or should say have been off and on working on a 1/43 chassis. Designing it after a 1/32 slot-it (late 80's LeMans) with a removable motor pod. So far I have had some promising results. Should be able to show some pics of my progress sometime in January.
 

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QUOTE (bemoore @ 10 Dec 2011, 15:46) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I fully understand the concept of stability & wheelbase, which is one reason I haven't jumped to 1/43. My ideal of a good chassis is one that is predictable and easy to drive. Not necessarily faster. In fact, you CAN get too fast (see HO cars w/strong traction mags). Improvements, to me, would be things like: better meshing gears, rounder tires & wheels, less slop in axles & bushings, etc. I.e. tighter, smoother running, quieter. In this regard, how does no-mag 1/43 compare to no-mag HO, and no-mag 1/32? Assuming all cars tuned for no-mag.
Accurate enough alignment, good enough bearing fit will help achieve a good gear mesh in any scale. Just how much misalignment and bearing slop you can get away with depends on the type/ make of gear.
Round rear wheels/ tyres are an advantage in non mag racing, although that seems to make a lot less difference in mag racing.
All of that is well worth a try in any scale.

Difficult to generalize on how that compares in the different scales compare. There is a wide range of different products in each scale and some running gear can be used in more than one scale. Certainly you should be able to get an answer to a more specific question like how do make xx 1/43 gears compare with make yy 1/32 gears

When it comes to ease of driving, there are also a wide range of differences within each scale. You could generalize that everything else being equal, larger cars are easier to drive than small cars....BUT of course everything else is hardly ever equal and there are so many other factors that can be more important than the size difference.
 
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