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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the new chassis for the Mini is ready!
changed the gearing from 7/25 to 8/20 (20tooth BSRT crown, drilled for the 0.085" axles of the mini). all tires went a tad inside the body, looking a little better for my feeling.
the weigt changed from 40g with the brass chassis to 30g with the styrene chassis. It´s nearly running the way i like my cars to run now, but way better than with the brass chassis. All the jumping under full throttle is gone, plus it runs quieter.
Still needs some license plates, just for the look. The glasses of the front turning lights are already lost during racing...











cheers,
Peter
 

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That looks really nice, great work on the styrene chassis. What guide have you used, does it swivel?
 

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Hi Peter, what is the small black block coming from the motor on the bare copper wires for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
QUOTE (MAF @ 20 Oct 2011, 10:06) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Peter, what is the small black block coming from the motor on the bare copper wires for?

it´s the connector to the front and rear lights of the Mini.
 

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Lights
! can you tell us what bulbs/led's were used and how they're wired? I would love to know a cost effective way to add lights to some of my builds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·




Hi Marlon,
the lights are wired with lacquer coated wire. The lights are SMD LEDs, the fronts are approximately 3 by 3mm, the rears are 1,8 by 1.2mm. The electric circuit is the same like on 1/32nd cars, see here: http://web.me.com/pmarchand/Slots/page21/p...e53/page53.html
i´m using a goldcap capacitor with a diameter of 10mm by a height of 5mm, i thinks its 0.1F.
i´m buying my electronic parts at Conrad (www.conrad.at).

here´s pic of how i glued in the rear lights, you can even see the circuit board and the very thin wires for the rear lights:





i´ll see if i can find a pic of the front lights, if i open the car again, i´ll make a detail picture.

cheers,
Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
yes, i´m using the circuit for the higher voltage cars!
the circuit for lower voltage cars definetely needs magnet and magnetdownforce to work well.

the lacquer coated copper wire i´m using for wiring the LED´s has a diameter of 0.15mm (more than enough!)

here are some new detail pics from the lights:







cheers,
Peter
 

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Many thanks for taking to the time to post those details Peter, that's a really good piece of work fitting that all into a 1/43 Mini!

That link and your photo's are great and answers a lot of questions, cheers
 

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This is a parts list from www.conrad.at for the main parts of the light circuit
Goldcap capacitor 0,33F,
Best.-Nr.: 422086 - 62
€ 1,29

SMD-LED PLCC2 DDW-PJG-WX1-1 Weiß 120 ° 2240
Best.-Nr.: 180966 - 62
€ 0,61

SCHOTTKY DIODE SMD 200 mA 30 V »
Best.-Nr.: 141275 - 62
€ 0,31

SMD-Festspannungsregler 0,15 A, positiv Toshiba TA 78 L06 F, 6 V, 150 mA
Best.-Nr.: 144720 - 62
€ 0,71

SMT-LED 0603 Gehäuse Rot 120 °, 100 mcd, 20 mA
Best.-Nr.: 180100 - 62
€ 0,13

lacquer coated copper wire 0.15mm
(hard to see, but easy to solder and to hide inside the body.

The resistors are 0603 SMD, sorry, don´t know the Ohm-rating, but i could take a look at the pic if i can read them LOL otherwise, i´ll go and measure the right value.
guessing (really guessing) - for the front LEDs 68ohms and 820ohms for the rear LED, but this is also depending on the LED that you´re using.

please don´t shoot me if the resistor values are not correct. they can be changed quite easily.
one remark: normally there should be one shotky diode before the voltage regulator. For the mini i skipped this one to save some place. if you put the car on the track in the wrong direction, you will blow the voltage regulator. tried it and had to solder in a new voltage regulator. if you got the space (the diode are tiny!) use the extra diode (it´s in the schematic from phillipe). if using schottky diodes you have to use 2 pcs. after the voltage regulator (voltage regulator 6V, goldcap 5.5V, the diodes are use to drop the voltage. normal diodes drop by 0.7V, the schottky diodes only by 0.3V, therefor 2 pcs (0.6V) to protect the goldcap)

cheers,
Peter
 

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Always a fan of your styrene chassis's Peter...and your mini's too!

Well done!
 

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Hi Peter, which thickness styrene are you using for this chassis?
 
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