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1 Lane rally track ideas

2500 Views 36 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  A_S
Hi,

I've designed the attached on ultimate racer and plan for it to be a single lane riuted forest rally track (probably compress it to 2m x 2m rather than 3 x 3). Routed is new to me and I see some really good help on here which I will have a read through.

Few questions:

1.) is it possible to have a 1 lane track that loops back on itself, so you come down the same slot as you go up via a loop and railway style "points" or sprung flippers at the top/bottom. I am guessing the layout would have to be digital to allow this?

2.) Can I have a number of those "points" in as short cuts and junctions as in a real forest so I can taylor the layout and have several different layouts in 1 (as per the red bits i've manually drawn on?

3.) Can I do it using SSD as my cars are all chipped to SSD mostly using slot.it chips.

4.) Any way to translate the Ultimate racer plan into something I can use to build the track.

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1) yes, it is possible. SSD protocol will help but you have to make sure that the loops are only connected to the main track from one side.
2) I do not see why not...but if you are new to routing I would take one step at the time. Doing what you plan there requires cutting flippers and merging the slots...which can be fiddly.
3) I think you can do it with ARC pro as your S/F line. You would need to embed the track piece of the power base to the routed track
4) Not sure. I think some people here with more routing experience can help.
On these small tracks I have sections where the two slots are only seperated by the width of the copper tape strip.

2x4 Foot Rally Track

20v48 ich Rally - Test Track

A easy way to get a longer lap length in a small space without fancy electronics to change the polarity on a " return loop/"
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Yes, loops are the best way to double your track lenght. Mine (still work in progress) is 28-30meters long, because of the loops.
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Dave - that is a good idea to put the slots close together although as my cars are already digitally converted and generally don’t run as well in anologue mode then I’d probably go straight to digital which I think would allow me to run both directions on the same slot?

Demether - I’ve seen a few bits like that on eBay - look really good and if I wasn’t going to try and do it single lane I’d use something similar!
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It's possible to do single lane with return loops in analog. Basically the the end of the loop is not connected to the track and the cars guide activates a switch as the car passes over a dead strip to reverse the tracks polarity. Have a search for rally loops or return loops in the Rally forum as well as this one, you will find a few layouts with single lane loops describing the switching and wiring involved.
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I should have said in my last post to start with the older threads from about 2012, may be even older, and work forward from there.
Demether - I’ve seen a few bits like that on eBay - look really good and if I wasn’t going to try and do it single lane I’d use something similar!

My track will be single lane, but using 2 lanes track... ;)
I should have said in my last post to start with the older threads from about 2012, may be even older, and work forward from there.
Thanks, will have a look when I get some time over the weekend
You might find this link to an old thread useful. At least some of the links still work although most pictures have gone which is the same with most old posts. If you find a useful thread it may be worth checking out wayback machine website to see if they have a snapshot of the tread.

Something I did think of whist reading another thread about lap timers. You could use a optocoupler at the end of each loop, you still need a short dead strip, linked to a Adriano, or similar, and use it to switch a relay on and off. You need the double pole double throw type relays. You could probably include a lap timer at the same time.
Thanks for the suggestions. The way back machine is a great call. I haven't used that for years!

Luckily my dad is currently using Arduinos to do the signalling at his model engineering (railway) club signalling system so we should be able to come up with something between us. However I was thinking that if there was a dead spot at the end of the loop it wouldn't matter as the digital cars run fowards or backwards so as long as they pass the dead spot then they could run back down the course fine.

I have a lot of research to do really, so its going to be a long project. I'm one of those people that "thinks" a long time before acting (my 1/24 and 1/12 scale model builds take years rather than months...) sometimes I just need to bite the bullet and try it.... So I might just get hold of some MDF from B&Q over the next few weeks, cut out a simple slot and wire up with a 90s Scalextric transformer to get the basics down.

So far on my to do list I have. Actually might use this thread a build if I do get to a stage where it seems feasable.

1.) A method acuratly sketching my track borders and slot onto the wood
2.) guiding the router to follow it
3.) where I get copper tape or other material to pass the current through - sorted - pendles for braid or amazon for copper tape
3a.) Do I need to cut a recess to keep the copper tape flush with the track surface? sorted - yes if braid no if copper tape providing paint levels with the tape
4.) Whether the track can utilise SSD to make use of my 15+ converted SCX rally cars
5.) how I deal with the return loop - i.e the stuff you mention about with an Arduino and relay.
6.) whether i can put manual "points"/junctions in, maybe controlled like railway points so i can switch up/down the stage route/length
7.) contouring the finished project with about 60cm elevation upto a high point, dropping back down to around 30cm then rising to 60 again before dropping down at the finish.
8.) Arduino as a point to point timing system rather than SSD/Arc pro which would mean 2 passes of the stage (up and down) to get 1 time
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Really looking forward to this, I have a couple of rally tracks to do using plastic track and a routed one as well now so very interested in your build.
Rallyhubs tracks are amazing and great inspiration for everyone.
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Thanks, i think it will probably be a slow burn given the amount of learning then planning that is required.

I've so far worked out 3, and 3a with the help of reading threads on the forum and slotcarracing.org.uk

I think the next steps would be to buy some MDF (although its more expensive than i thought, around £30 per 1.2x2.4m @ B&Q!) and get some copper tape to do a test circuit on which I can test the basic construction methods:

Sketching the slot, particulally non constant radius corners
the Routing itself
Guiding the router (I need to decide/find a cheep and flexible edging material to act as the guide)
working out a way of getting a typical "welsh rally stage" type surface, while remaining smooth to allow sliding.

something like this (myherin) would work.
Plant Plant community Infrastructure Road surface Tree


Thinking further ahead....

..... I've figured that if "points" work on a model railway layout the same logic should work with a slot car layout.

As long as I test how the current flows on some old hornby points, if i replicate that effect using some custom "flippers" milled in brass on my dad's Lathe then it should work. I could even wire up a couple in series with point motors in order to create some custom layouts at the flick of a switch....
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I think Beardy already mentioned it but I would do it like Ghost Trax did it a couple of years ago, look at the rally track pictures in this tread:
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Nice idea: At 4:35 you can find a loop without flipper, because it is positioned in a bend:
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Thanks both.that video does look very much like what I am intending to do Hub

i wonder why both rails of the loop are isolated. Though surely only the return leg of the outer loop needs isolating but both outer legs are
Some good footage in the video....Some of the tracks had "flow" which is critical for an enjoyable driving experience.

There are some rally tracks that just look silly with too many squiggles and wriggles to be realisitic....I guess the builders think more is more rather than less being more.
i wonder why both rails of the loop are isolated. Though surely only the return leg of the outer loop needs isolating but both outer legs are
[/QUOTE]

I am not an electrical expert, but you need to be able to separate the loop from the main track for changing direction. So they isolated the whole loop (+ and -) from the main track (+ and - or - and +).
During the passing of the loop, the car changes the direction on the main track.
It would be nice if someone here on SlotForum would be so kind to add an electrical diagram of this circuit. I guess it is an analog track.
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Maybe but If it was to reverse the polarity surely only the second isolation was needed on the return of the loop rather than the start of the loop?
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