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Hi,

I've designed the attached on ultimate racer and plan for it to be a single lane riuted forest rally track (probably compress it to 2m x 2m rather than 3 x 3). Routed is new to me and I see some really good help on here which I will have a read through.

Few questions:

1.) is it possible to have a 1 lane track that loops back on itself, so you come down the same slot as you go up via a loop and railway style "points" or sprung flippers at the top/bottom. I am guessing the layout would have to be digital to allow this?

2.) Can I have a number of those "points" in as short cuts and junctions as in a real forest so I can taylor the layout and have several different layouts in 1 (as per the red bits i've manually drawn on?

3.) Can I do it using SSD as my cars are all chipped to SSD mostly using slot.it chips.

4.) Any way to translate the Ultimate racer plan into something I can use to build the track.

 

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Dave - that is a good idea to put the slots close together although as my cars are already digitally converted and generally don’t run as well in anologue mode then I’d probably go straight to digital which I think would allow me to run both directions on the same slot?

Demether - I’ve seen a few bits like that on eBay - look really good and if I wasn’t going to try and do it single lane I’d use something similar!

 

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I should have said in my last post to start with the older threads from about 2012, may be even older, and work forward from there.

Thanks, will have a look when I get some time over the weekend

 

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Thanks for the suggestions. The way back machine is a great call. I haven't used that for years!

Luckily my dad is currently using Arduinos to do the signalling at his model engineering (railway) club signalling system so we should be able to come up with something between us. However I was thinking that if there was a dead spot at the end of the loop it wouldn't matter as the digital cars run fowards or backwards so as long as they pass the dead spot then they could run back down the course fine.

I have a lot of research to do really, so its going to be a long project. I'm one of those people that "thinks" a long time before acting (my 1/24 and 1/12 scale model builds take years rather than months...) sometimes I just need to bite the bullet and try it.... So I might just get hold of some MDF from B&Q over the next few weeks, cut out a simple slot and wire up with a 90s Scalextric transformer to get the basics down.

So far on my to do list I have. Actually might use this thread a build if I do get to a stage where it seems feasable.

1.) A method acuratly sketching my track borders and slot onto the wood
2.) guiding the router to follow it
3.) where I get copper tape or other material to pass the current through - sorted - pendles for braid or amazon for copper tape
3a.) Do I need to cut a recess to keep the copper tape flush with the track surface? sorted - yes if braid no if copper tape providing paint levels with the tape
4.) Whether the track can utilise SSD to make use of my 15+ converted SCX rally cars
5.) how I deal with the return loop - i.e the stuff you mention about with an Arduino and relay.
6.) whether i can put manual "points"/junctions in, maybe controlled like railway points so i can switch up/down the stage route/length
7.) contouring the finished project with about 60cm elevation upto a high point, dropping back down to around 30cm then rising to 60 again before dropping down at the finish.
8.) Arduino as a point to point timing system rather than SSD/Arc pro which would mean 2 passes of the stage (up and down) to get 1 time

 

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Thanks, i think it will probably be a slow burn given the amount of learning then planning that is required.

I've so far worked out 3, and 3a with the help of reading threads on the forum and slotcarracing.org.uk

I think the next steps would be to buy some MDF (although its more expensive than i thought, around £30 per 1.2x2.4m @ B&Q!) and get some copper tape to do a test circuit on which I can test the basic construction methods:

Sketching the slot, particulally non constant radius corners
the Routing itself
Guiding the router (I need to decide/find a cheep and flexible edging material to act as the guide)
working out a way of getting a typical "welsh rally stage" type surface, while remaining smooth to allow sliding.

something like this (myherin) would work.

Thinking further ahead....

..... I've figured that if "points" work on a model railway layout the same logic should work with a slot car layout.

As long as I test how the current flows on some old hornby points, if i replicate that effect using some custom "flippers" milled in brass on my dad's Lathe then it should work. I could even wire up a couple in series with point motors in order to create some custom layouts at the flick of a switch....

 

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Thanks both.that video does look very much like what I am intending to do Hub

i wonder why both rails of the loop are isolated. Though surely only the return leg of the outer loop needs isolating but both outer legs are

 

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Maybe but If it was to reverse the polarity surely only the second isolation was needed on the return of the loop rather than the start of the loop?

 

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Thanks - probably need to do some research or have a simple (basic language!) explanation of how it works - for example if the loop is powered separately how does it reverse the polarity on the single track after the loop?

 

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Thanks - I’ll have a read of that in detail when I’m a bit more awake.

watched this while trying to research lane changingand points. It’s for anologue and may not be what I need (he describes the nuts and bolts but not the why or how) but pretty cool all the same

 

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You need two of these
View attachment 335333
one for each loop. Cut a hole in the side of the slot so the tab protrudes across the slot, the tab might need bending to get it to work properly with the cars guides.
You also need one of theses, 2 pole 2 way latching relay
View attachment 335335

and the wiring diagram
View attachment 335336

The micro switches are SWW1 and SW2, from power supply should read from controller. Unlike with a traditional relay that requires the power to be on to the coil to hold the relay closed and power of to be open two coil latching relays only need the coil to be activated for a momment to move the contact and it stays in that state until the other coil is activated. If we say the diagram shows the track for going from loop one to loop two the top track rail is -ve and the bottom is +ve. When the cars passes the second loop switch it is closed as the car passes activating one of the coils and, in the diagram, the contacts move down and stay there. This switches the power to the track so the top rail is now +ve with the bottom rail -ve. When the car goes around the first loop SW1 is closed for a moment and the other coil is activated, just for a moment, and moves the contacts back to the up position as shown in the diagram again reversing the power to the track. You also need two extra feed lines from the 'power supply' + and - going to each of the isolated loops. As long as the loops are designed so the car can only enter one way nothing else is needed.

If you wish you can replace the micro switches with opto-couplers but you would then need to use a micro controller board to read the coupler and activate the relay coils. This would also allow you to use a standard relay with the appropriate coding. If the cars are fitted with magnets it might also be possible to use reed switches in place of the micro switches or hall sensors in place of the opto-couplers.

Thanks I think this will do what I need once I understand it!! the diagram is a different language for me! I am not sure where the track is, where the power comes from, where the isolation points etc!

Is there a way to translate it to something simple and visual?

I presume the power comes from the power base to the first point of isolation let’s say 3/4 of the way round the top loop

On the isolated area you have this switch which then switches the polarity and feeds the current from somewhere (where?) back to the last 1/4 of the loop.

Then how does that get back to the non loop area of the track which currently has a different polarity?

Then how does this reversal of the polarity effect the track at the point it reaches the power base? Will that damage the power base, especially if it’s digital in digital mode rather than anologue mode?

I presume that you then go into the loop at the bottom of the course where the second switches is and does exactly the opposite of the first switch

 

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Bit busy this weekend but hoping to get hold of a router and some copper tape to start the trial build in the next few weeks.

can I just buy some copper tape off Amazon or do I need specific stuff?

 

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Thanks - so as long as the screw touches the bottom of the copper tape it will conduct but I guess you need to ensure it doesn’t puncture the tape or leave a raised bump.

r.e the burnishing - if you mean to burnish the copper - I have some glass fibre brushes from
When I built some brass o gauge locomotives in the past - so those should do the job

 

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Thats great thanks, for some reason I couldnt comprehend doing the screw from above. Does that situation not cause an issue with the car's braids? I guess not.

The other option I was thinking was that at the end of the base board you could run the cable round the edge and do what you did but from underneith or solder some wire directly to the tape.

Plans have taken a slight hiccup in that my Father keeps making excuses on getting hold of a router, I don't think he thought I was serious, and I don't think wants it in his garage or spare room! (little room at mine for it), until I said, well if you don't borrow one I am going to have to buy one...! so I plan to force the issue by getting the tape and base board first and then he will have to borrow the router!


I am thinking some of this cheep but this is only for a test so as long as it conducts it should be ok

amazon


If anyone has any recomendations for baseboard suppliers (other than the big stores) or alternative materials let me know as its £30 for a 2x4 at B&Q!

 

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Thanks both I’ll have a more detailed read of your post tomorrow Matt when I am a bit less tired.

update from here is that I have a router but we only have a 5mm bit so need to source a 3mm and the wood then I’m good to go.

I’ll phone around a few builders merchants and get a quote (Jewson etc). At this stage it’s only for a test so I think I may just use some chip board if that wouldwork as it’s likely to be a bit cheaper (says he who is wasting money on scx cars on eBay…!)