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Just started with Varrera Digital 132
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi fellow Racers!

This is my first post here, but been lurking and gathering knowledge. I just started in the hobby, together with my 5 year old son! We love the slotcars!
After buying the limited edition ferrari Carrera D132 set i am now gathering parts for a track layout. I want to build a table in my son his bedroom on which we will through the months and years hopefully build some awesome tracks. The space is not so big but i hope our first track will work. I do understand perhaps in some years we better go on with Scalextric Sport tracks but for now i love the easy going stuff from Carrera.

The idea is a track in the mountains. I do have alot of experience in model building and painting (planes and cars) so i hope to jump into this scenery thing with all my heart.
Quick description: After start/finish and racing into first right hander the track climbs steep into the next right hander. The back straight and next hairpin are the highest point. the hairpin lays on a rock where a tunnel is carved out in, halfly stutted by wood. After the hairpin the track slowly goes down into the double left. Then it goes into the tunnel (compare it with tunnels in the southern france), this will be the mid-level, between the highest point and the start/finish. After the tunnel the track goes into another hard right but opens up into the main straight.

i designed this in as much space as i could within the 10 by 5 feet. 5 feet on the left, 3.5 on the right. Just so his room still has empty space to breathe. And to keep the wife happy.

My question after all this talk is this:

Will this flow nicely? Knowing you all have lots of experience you maybe can help me a bit. This was created in autorennbahn program. And tested in their C3D program. the height works. But i am concerned because i see alot of talk around here in terms of flow.

Cheers
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Registered
Just started with Varrera Digital 132
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
To help visualise what i tried to say about the height, here are some screenshots from the 3D program.
I will eventually add a pit too. That will be looking like a stop next to the road carved into the mountain on lowest level (will be painted road btw).
The look i wanna try and aim for is some kind of hidden road in the mountains that race/rally teams use as a training track back in the 70's/90's, only accessible through a tunnel (exit will be in the center open space) but locked of with gates. the team crew then place their stuff in the carved out brakedown piece of road (the pit) and start testing away.

This whole track will be on a table around 80cm's high. I hope to also decorate the front under the track to show some cliffs.

Greetings, Bert

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Looks like a very nice track to me.
 
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ParrotGod
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I think the changes in elevation will make an interesting mountain circuit.
You could even add some pit buildings under the straight that is parallel to the main straight.
 

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Tore
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I like the basis of the layout and concept. Will be a cool track after a few modifications 😉

I'm in the middle of building a 3-level "shelf track" myself and don't be surprised if the track will not fit as shown in the software when adding elevation. Extra 1/4 and 1/3 straights are helpful to adjust.

Drive the layout before building anything permanent. Get at least a pack of R2 and R4 which IMHO are essential and useful in most layouts, and setup some different temporary tracks to learn how they drive. Your preferences will change with experience.

I've changed the layout I'm currently building several times already, so be prepared for changes before making it permanent 🙂

Regarding your layout above I think turn-1 is too sharp. The cars will have good speed down the straight, so easing it out with R4 + 3xR2 will reduce hard deslots.

Scenery, pitlane and shoulders will be easier to add if you make the "infield" part of the track narrower.

IMHO track soulders are essential, even stock magnet cars slide a bit, and especially when you discover the fun of driving with only front magnet, or without magnets. The Carrera shoulders are very big and rather expensive, so if you make your own you can get away with about half the width (5-6 cm).
 

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Drive the layout before building anything permanent. Get at least a pack of R2 and R4 which IMHO are essential and useful in most layouts, and setup some different temporary tracks to learn how they drive. Your preferences will change with experience.
Agree, as well as all the other very good points you raised.

I'm also not sure about the R1 LC at the end of the main straight. I find that even a single R2/30 compounding down into R1 adds a lot more corner entry speed without as much carnage at the end of straights of similar length.

Other than that, it has been well thought out, but I think the overhang is going to get annoying for visually following the cars. I know you've modelled it in 3D to look at things like that but personally I'd reduce the overhang a little bit so you can see what is underneath. But if you take the above advice and run it before you make it permanent, you will find out I suppose.

I'd definately consider tweaking things to try to fit some drift room or custom made borders, especially if its going to be permanent. I don't have a lot of borders (maybe half my layout is like that) to use so I have to use super sticky tyres on my layout to reduce the drifting, but it is much better if you can make mistakes without the car sliding off the edge of the track or hitting a track barrier.

How many R4 pieces do you have currently? And R3? or are those items on your shopping list?
 

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David H
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Slowthrill. One of the things you haven't made allowance for is track borders. If you intend always driving with magnets, then they aren't so important, because your cars will barely slide, but it's likely that you'll progress to at least trying no-mag racing, and possibly sticking with no-mag permanently. In such a circumstance, you'll have the rear of your cars swiping barriers/scenery on the outside of your corners.

Yes, people will say that sliding is slow, and it is, but that won't stop it happening. It will even happen occasionally with magnets still in your cars. As you intend doing this with your young son, I foresee a lot of smashed scenery unless you make space for it by using track borders.

The other problem you've created by not making border space - although it will only be a problem if you race digital rather than analogue - is that you'll have cars crashing head-on. Well, not quite head-on, but the sliding rear of a car will get collected at high speed by a car travelling in the opposite direction, as indicated on the diagram below. You could prevent that by using a barrier around the edge of the track, but then you'll be back with the problem of having no sliding room. If the track is multi-level, one car might swing out above the other rather than smashing into it, but any borders on the upper level will obstruct vision of the lower one

I agree with Slotspeed that the overhang will be annoying. I'd suggest you get rid of it.

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Tore
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With Carrera shoulders and a bit more flow while keeping most of the low-visibility section straight.

As mentioned, shoulders can be made from foam, wood, etc.. and with some careful placement and variable width the track will appear less massive. But again, to find the best placement and size requires testing. IMHO it's OK to maybe have one turn without shoulders making it a "feature", for instance above the undercut to shorten the half-tunnel.

Space for only two XLC's, but it's enough on a small layout.
 

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ParrotGod
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Unfortunately with Scalextric we haven't even got that. Oh well cut and paste for now.
I do not want to derail the thread...Carrera R4 are great. But in scalextric, R2, R3, and R4 are all 22,5 degrees which means that you need 8 pieces to complete a 180 degree curve: basically you have 8 possible angles to choose from.
In Carrera, R2 and R3 are all 30 degree while R4 are 15: this means that you need 6 R2 or R3 to do an 180 degree curve and two options less for angles.
For two lane track is not a big deal, but in 4 lane tracks this design choice make the 15 degree of R4 useless - unless you cut the R3 (and possibly also the R2) to 15 degree.
 

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ParrotGod
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The comments above makes sense. I sometimes sound like a broken record repeating the same over and over again about track designs (including placement of digital pieces and inclusion of squeezes and cross overs).
I guess the best way for people to learn is to experience by themselves.
 

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I do not want to derail the thread...Carrera R4 are great. But in scalextric, R2, R3, and R4 are all 22,5 degrees which means that you need 8 pieces to complete a 180 degree curve: basically you have 8 possible angles to choose from.
In Carrera, R2 and R3 are all 30 degree while R4 are 15: this means that you need 6 R2 or R3 to do an 180 degree curve and two options less for angles.
For two lane track is not a big deal, but in 4 lane tracks this design choice make the 15 degree of R4 useless - unless you cut the R3 (and possibly also the R2) to 15 degree.
Thanks, get what you say. Quite frankly take my Scalextric track.Would have loved to have had a couple of R2. R3 or even R4 15 degree pieces. With Scalextric R2 45 and twenty two and a half degree,
R3 and R4 twenty two and a half degree only. 15 degree would make a huge difference in creating large track plans. Certainly would have made a difference for me.

So be it!
 

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The comments above makes sense. I sometimes sound like a broken record repeating the same over and over again about track designs (including placement of digital pieces and inclusion of squeezes and cross overs).
I guess the best way for people to learn is to experience by themselves.
You provide great, well informed, valuable experienced information. But you are right, some things and some aspects of track design are best learned from experience.
 

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ParrotGod
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It was a tongue in cheek comment on the liberating qualities of routed tracks, and the, sometimes glossed over, learning curve required to plan and build one.
Eventually I might build a digital routed track...but not for now. I agree that is going wood is "liberating" but it is a step too far at this stage for me.
 
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