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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there,

Next project will be an other speed breaker, the Sunbeam 350Hp later known after conversion as the first Bluebird.

The resin body was made by David Sykes and is in my view a very good resin body to work with, as are the rest of the bodies he made so far I've seen. There are a few things like air bubbles in the resin that need some attention, but that's just a minor point to overcome. As far as I could see, the scale is correct, and for those who have difficulties with chassis building, a Penelope chassis can be fitted.

But I've still got some questions about this car, If you look at the photo, behind the driver there are two lids, one has a flexible tube sticking out and the other one has a bar, that probably is a device to see the level of fuel.
My question is does anybody perhaps have some detailed pictures of that part, and photos of the cockpit would also be nice?


Progress on the building will soon be published on this topic.
Thanks for your help.

Cheers,
Danny
 

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Phil Smith
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A good book for photos of this car and other similar cars such as the Railton that you previously made is 'Brooklands Giants, brave men and their great cars' by Bill Boddy.
There are twelve good pictures of the Sunbeam in the book. (not including the one you show)
Just £25 from Amazon
 

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These are the best I can find -
In this link http://nationalmotormuseum.org.uk/domains/...20completed.pdf there is a photo of it at the Sunbeam works in 1920 with wooden wheels rather than the wire spoked ones in later photos.

Kenelm Lee Guinness in the car at Brooklands - maybe you already have them?





The car is on show at the National Motor Museum at Beaulieu, Hampshire, but Macolm Campbell had it modified from the one you are interested, in particular it has a much longer tail

The later long tail version
 

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Peter Seager-Thomas
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[quote name='300SLR' date='12 Jan 2012, 17:01' post='675592']
there is a photo of it at the Sunbeam works in 1920 with wooden wheels rather than the wire spoked ones in later photos.

They won't be wooden wheels, but the 'Sankey' type steel wheels which Sunbeam at that time still used on their standard road cars. These same wheels were in fact used on earlier racing cars by not only Sunbeam, but many others. Wooden wheels were not really suitable for racing.

Excellent pictures by the way.

Peter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi,

Thanks to you all who did their best to help me. Book is ordered and the photos and information of the Internet I already did have, but anyway thanks for your time, much appreciated. Should there be more information and photos available, always welcome.

I want to give a first glimpse of what I'm doing at the moment. Starting with the Body that was made by David Sykes, and where I'm very pleased with. There are a few things I've changed. I've filed up all body lines and rivets and sanded away the belts. I also cut away the front beams of the chassis. But I have to mention that it's not necessary and it can be build as it comes, but for those who know my work, know that I like to improve minor details and experiment along.

After the body was prepared, I started to draw out on the body, where the body lines and rivets where suppose to come. The body lines where then engraved again with a much finer needle. The rivets where a new experiment. After marking where all rivets where supposed to come, I hand drilled out each rivet with a 0,3mm drill. Than I took 0,3mm hard bras wire, made the head round and smooth on my late cut of about 4mm and started the process all over again until every rivet was made. Than I made a hollow needle where the hollow part decides how far the rivet sticks out. In the end all the work was worthwhile seen the result, I think.


Next step was the build of the chassis. The Sunbeam 350Hp is such a huge model that there is no trouble to fit in a serious motor. I had a new SCX pro speed motor laying around and the curved sides where idle to go with the underside shaping of the chassis, whits is in form of a bulb shape at the real thing.

So this gave me the idea of making a brass frame that will be filled up and curved with milliput still a work to do but you can see the frame where the milliput is going to be applied.




The reason why I did cut of the front chassis beams of the resin body,was that it was much easier to imitate the front suspension and other details.
Another answer to a problem where the rear springs who sit under the axle. I implanted a M1 nut in the body so you can loosen the spring when you want to separate body from chassis.



I also wanted a direction following front wheel drive that's going to follow the direction of the slot ski. This still has to be finished but you see where I'm going at.




Of course it's not always 100% correct with reality, there are restrictions to what is possible for a slot car build, and there's not always the correct data available. Most of it is worked out from the old photos. But overall I get a good feeling that it will turn out quite good.
I do hope you'll feel the same comments or ideas are always welcome of course.

Cheers,
Danny
 

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Well it's looking fantastic so far. Love the effort you've put into the rivets, and the chassis with the steering is great and the suspension detail is wonderful.
Are those Peter Sussex wheels???
Brilliant. Nice one. Looking forward to seeing it finished.
Cheers.
 

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i love to see the engineering and craftmanship that you,ve put into this model, the term master builder gets misused quite a lot but in your case its very appropriate. i genuinly stand in awe of your skills. keep em coming. john
 

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Absolutely amazing Danny! Someday I'll have courage to build a car from this time. Really incredible work on the rivest and chassis.


Cheers!

Ricardo Bifulco
 

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Hi there,

Thank you all for your the kind words and support, much appreciated.

@ Tomwyson
I wish they where wheels by the master, Peter Sussex. But I had to look elsewhere because the wheels of the sunbeam are huge and very narrow. So I went for a look in the 1/24 scale range, there was not much to find at the slot supply dealers, until I found a supplier for static models in Kent over E-Bay. I took the risk of ordering them and I've to say it was looking better then I expected. I made them a little thinner on my late and it was the best I could do. They are still to smal but under the circumstances available on the market, it was the best option. I used Teflon tube, as a shaft sleeve or bearing for the front wheels.

@nino barlini
You don't need the courage, you need self confidence, you just have to order a model, and start with it. The thinks I've seen you've made, you definitely have the skills, I've been admiring your work for quite a while, and I've to say, I've got no other words than, perfection at a top level.

Now the progress on the car.

The steering mechanism has been made, and the bulb shaped chassis has been sculpted with Milliput. So the chassis is finished and readdy for painting.


The exhaust pipes are also readdy. I now have to concentrate on the cockpit and all the gadgets mounted on the body.




Cheers,
Danny
 

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Danny this is looking really great mate.

Its interesting how, if you look back over the last year or two your level of detail has REALLY improved. Congratulations on this one its really going to be good.

Cheers Andi
 

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I'm fascinated by your work here. With all the different materials - steel, brass, rubber, plastic, teflon, etc. - it's a visual treat. With the bone-like body and all those different textures, it has a living, organic feel, and I mean that in the best sense! And you made a great choice with those wheels, they are superb!
 

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Glad this is going so well, Eric EJI, drew the set of plans I used so you can thank him in part for the model . He as well sands down detail i put on maybe i should not bother and it is always a wrench telling my self enougth is enougth and to put the master down and make a mould of it, When I first put the rivets in I was set up in my car with some tools and bits in an ikea box of draws in a layby next to a cornfield at a quite country corner, I was escaping work on my lunch trying to relax from all the rubbish that was going on. I enjoy watching these scratch threads for build ideas only problem is I have another 12 bodys in a box on the side I have not touched for a week for reading.

I love the exhausts I am building one up for me and have used cotton to sim the wrappings around the cockpit sides. There was a Austin I have seen at a classic event that had a whole tail of some stiffened wraps. I will have to pull out the pictures and dimensions.

Any how well done and I can not wait to see it painted up.
Dave
 

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All smal attachments to the car are made, and is readdy to be striped down for paint work, last glimpse of the naked body.





Cheers,
Danny

PS.thanks EJI for the plans
 
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