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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I know that some people are looking out to my next project.
I got three old Airfix body's of the Mercedes W125 model.
I've been thinking quite a while what I was going to do with them.
Should I restore them as they come of the shelf, as a toy, or should I take it the hard way, and readjust the body's into scale models.
After searching on the net for some documentation I found this photo:

A 1937 picture of the Mercedes team at Monaco.
ending up in the final top three:
1. Nr10 Manfred Von Brauchitsch (German)
2. Nr 8 Rudolf Carraciola (German)
3. Nr 12 Christian Kautz (Swiss)
here's a link to some real footage of the 1937 GP (link)
So I've decided to go the hard way and give these ladies the looks that they deserve.

At their present state they are to wide, so my best option is to cut them in two take a small part out of the middle, and glue them back together again.
then resculpt them with milliput. Kind of similar method as I did with the Alfa 12c37.
I'll keep you updated on the progress, but it going to take quite a while before they are finished.
Cheers,
Danny
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
progress on the work...

The bodies have been cut in two

There's about 3mm sanded away from the middle

Than the bodies where glued back together even the underside was glued on

The louvres where sanded away and a piece of the front nose was also cut away (middle car)

the first rough sculpting of the nose is done



and the work goes on...
 

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Hi Nuvolare

I have recently bought one of these, new in bag.
I thought I was on to a good thing.
I dont want to cut mine up but I might try some casting and cutting and casting again.

Can I ask, why you have remodelled the nose?

Regards
 

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Peter Seager-Thomas
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QUOTE (munter @ 3 Mar 2012, 18:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Can I ask, why you have remodelled the nose?

A quick look at the nose will show that the Airfix side vents are not only the wrong shape, but also far too low. A look at both Dannys' drawings and the original picture will show this. Look at the straight line at the bottom of the apertures on the model, which are in line, then look at the drawing and photo. The two are quite different.
Peter.
 

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Excellent work. I will follow this closely.
 

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QUOTE (munter @ 3 Mar 2012, 19:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Can I ask, why you have remodelled the nose?
Peter is totally correct and that is even not the end of the story, also the rear must be reshaped.
This doesn't mean that a strait of the shelf model won't be nice on your track, but you know me, I always love a challenge and I just want to show what option you have with this model. Look at this drawing you'll see the differences with your model.

I also have an other thing I want to show you, before you begin a scratch build, and you want a detailed model, how important it is to focus at one particular car in time and place. If you look at the photo with the four w125 in a row you'll notice that NR 10 has a different window than the others.
If you compare the two photos, you'll notice that extra air holes are drilled into the Monaco version, they even got an extra intake between the Mercedes logo and the grill. Showing those details is the fun part for me and makes the model exiting.


Cheers,
Danny
 

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Thank you Peter and Danny for that short but informative tutorial.

My scratch building has been running on high for a while now with a car for the Tasman GP proxy, the" IPS" and the "The Last Open Road" proxy.

I have nearly finished an MGA for the TLOR race and will then contemplate my next move....I have a few cars at various stages of completion.

Regards
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
update...

The radiator grill that goes with the model is a flat plastic peace and does not give me the depth that I want, so this made me thinking and after some experimenting this is what I came up with

a primitive device to make grills
It all starts with shaping the outline of the grill that fits on the stone mold


Than I start to stick in 15 brass wire sticks, 0.3mm thick, in the under cylinder. Than band them over to the upper cylinder


than I start to pull each wire to the shape. I first put the underside in order and solder them to the other ring. After that is done I pull the wires again so that the tension stretches the wires into shape, and finely solder upper side of the outer ring. And finely the horizontal wire and the ring is soldered on.

Finely it's cut lose from the mold and the edges sanded smooth to the outer ring, I than sand blasted it and one Radiator grill is readdy.

The close up photo shows a few irregularities but when you see the model it's hardly visible.
fitted into the body, I now still have to blend it in with puty from Tamiya and its ready for paint work, when all the rest like the louvre are also fitted in witch is my next step.

Cheers, Danny
 

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Fantastic work on the grille, thanks for showing your method for doing this, well worked out
 

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QUOTE (howmet tx @ 18 Mar 2012, 10:56) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Brilliant technique! Just thinking, would copper wire be easier to stretch tight & straight over your mould?
Pure red copper is to soft, it will form very well, but ones released from the mould it would bent to easy. The wire is only 0.3mm thick, so you need every strength you can put into it. But I had some practice making them, and the last ones I've made, just turned out perfect. It takes me about an hour to build one. so I've thrown the first two away, it's practice in the learning process that makes quality.


Cheers,
Danny
 

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Pete Shepherd
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Hi Danny,

Great work you're doing here and the technique for the grill is very impressive, far beyond my capabilities.

Good luck with your ambitious project.

Thanks,

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Progress on the three sisters...

All the grills have been fitted in with putty and sanded into shape. Also the panel lines have been cut in.

To engrave panel lines, I cut lead striplings from a lead sheet for seen with double sticking tape. The lead sheet you can get from a good DIY shop, and is normally used for roofs on houses.


Them I measure out where the lines supposed to come mark it with a permanent marker. Than I stick the lead strip, where I marked where the panel lines should be. And use the lead strip as a ruler and a very fine needle to engrave the panel lines. When that is done you can remove the lead strip and you have a perfect panel line. Sand it a little with a 2000 sandpaper and water to lose the rough engraved ages. The advantage of the lead strips is, that they are bendable and can follow every curve.


Next stage was to give the impression of the motor cap. With the W125 this was a lose plate laid over the body and attached to it. so what I did is masked of the side and lay a thin putty layer after that is done pull off very carefully the masking tape. leave it to dry properly, and sand it smooth with a 2000 sandpaper and water.





Next step will be the fitting in of the louvres. But that for next time folks...

Cheers,
Danny
 
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