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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been thinking about building a 60's F1 car for Fates race but a paucity of proper bodies here is a probelm yet. So to do some practice for such small cars, I Found this old Buterate vac 1/32nd scale Indy Lotus 38 body in some old stuff given to me a few years ago. And it did not look too bad and I thought I would build up a chassis for it. It is painted on the inside with water based paints.

Its a pretty narrow small chassis to build for or to find a small enough motor to fit. The driver in this body is molded in so I was going to cut it out and fit a 3/d driver. NOT! no room when the motor goes in. I had to improvise

I had to make it an end bell drive using a Mura Endbell in a cut down Falcon can. The can was made into a strap type and the magents were not cut down any, as that setup would fit with the endbell drive. I made a small narrow brass billet axle drive housing up and soldered the main chassis chassis rails to that. The magnets were glued in the can.

It is almost finished, just a few more details like more suspension details to the rear axle area and A new vac formed windshield to be made up and fitted. As the molded in one was way to short. Also a rollbar is being made up with a rear brace.
The livery is a fantasy one as I did not want a Jim Clark duplicate so this is a supposed backup car purchased from Lotus after Clark won in 65. Been a fun project and runs very well with a Slot-It 25K arm installed in the motor. Front wheels and tires were made up and the rear tires are silicone coated sponges. Sizes are 5/16ths front by .760 Dia and rears are 7/16ths by .790 dia.





 

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Very nice Larry. Great work, as always. Please submit an entry for the F1 proxy. I can't imagine one of these events without your handy work being featured. I'd recommend Andy at ABSlotSport or Chas Keeling for Classic fiberglass F1 bodies. I live in the U.S. and have had great success with both Andy and Chas.

Steve
 

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That looks radical, Larry! How do the mags stay in the can? Are they glued? Is that sufficient? With the can cut away so much, I can't visualise quite what is going on in there.
Lovely job. Not underpowered, I would guess.
 

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Russell Sheldon
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Beautiful, Larry!

For a man who has made his own perfectly accurate 1/32nd scale Indy car body from styrene sheet, I didn't think that not being able to source a suitable F1 body in the 'States would hinder you!


Love that 'strap' motor? Fergy?

Kind regards

Russell
 

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Brian Ferguson
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Very nice Larry!


But.... how come people applaud when you use a strap motor, and laugh their butts off when I mention one...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Depends on what you call a strap can I guess Fergy! Anyway here is how mine looks and was done to get some room for the neck and shoulders of the driver. And all of the motors I have on hand were much too big to allow it stock. The magnets are the Stock Falcons and are epoxied in place.

Thats why I mounted the motor endbell to the drive end. So the rear of the cut can like this cleared the driver just enough to fit.

This gives me a motor I know will run on a good 12+volts and keep on running and be re-buildable when it needs it. The car runs very well and is very drivable. It ran on our commercial 110 ft track and was turning 5.9 -6-1 laps very nicely. It weighs 89 grams and may need a touch more weight in front. But its a practice chassis, till I get a 60's F1 body located The right one should fit this chassis. Or the chassis can be made to fit without too much bother.





Larry S.
 

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Brian Ferguson
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Larry, that is a superb modification to an S-can!
And, as for those who denigrate me for my strap-motor comments.... JP
.... and Beejay
....
. Besides, I'm not a power-hungry guy! heehee! HaaHaaa.... bwaaa-haa-haaa-ha-haaa!
 

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Have you tried shortening the can as well, Larry? If you knock those little tabs out, the magnets slide in a few mm further, and the little stop/washer on the arm can be moved up a similar amount. Then you can trim the endbell end of the can down and fit it all back together. I'll bet you have! Doesn't seem to affect performance. I havn't done it with a trick endbell like yours. But it's very useful in the confined space of an F1 or a narrow sidewinder.
I'd be interested to hear your ideas.
Still nervous about relying on epoxy alone to keep the mags in place, but I guess it works- doesn't it? I was idly thinking if it was worth grinding a little groove in the magnet edges so that you could slide a spring clip in there too. But I guess not.
The Mura endbell is SOOO cool though- I'm going to have to try that. If I can cure the wobble on my Unimat.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes Howmet;
I have shortend the cans and have made up a bunch of these conversions over the last 6 years or so. I have a two piece brass lathe fixture I made up that fits the Mura endbell so it is centered and clamped tight while turning the endbell to fit the Slot-It or Falcon type cans.

The cans have had various and sundry magnets in them in various lengths etc. Even including a set of cobalts that were a bit of overkill for the arms used. The current epoxies are quite good and these small motors don't get hot enough to really soften them up.

I re-wind some of the arms also such as the Slot-It with the good comms and the Pla-Fits such as the new Fox and the new Cheetah II's as they have even better comms. If I am going to play around with the small motors we use mostly in 1/32nd scale I like them to be re-buildable a time or two anyway, by truing the comms when worn and adding new brushes.

Lots of fun to be had in the old shop with slot cars.
 

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Thanks for the info, Larry. I think the workshop really needs a new lathe. I could tell Mrs H it will be useful for jobs around the house.....
 
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