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1968 BRM P126

9879 Views 50 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  David Lawson
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Without wishing to monopolise the 1960s F1 theme (I would love to see some others work), here's another car currently under construction which I mentioned I was planning in another thread.

Once again it's one of the excellent Classic shells. This BRM raced during a dip in the team's fortunes after Graham Hill and Jackie Stewart left the team at the end of 1966 & 67 and the team struggled with the H16 engine before admitting defeat and switching to the V12 for 1968 that would eventually have some success in the 153 and 160 chassis in the early 1970s.

BRM's were always very well engineered and this car looked superbly packaged as well as being a good looking design, it was always one of my favourites. I always remember a high spot being Richard Attwood's great race at Monaco in 68 when he came close to winning.

The standard Scalex motor that I prefer to use for home track use just fits this slim bodyshell - here's a couple of work in progress pictures. You'll see that I've just broken through the shell with the Dremel around the engine exhaust and intake area as space is at a premium but I'll clean that up when I prepare the shell for painting.




David
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QUOTE (newso @ 22 Jun 2004, 12:11)David,on the Brabham thing,one of the guys who races with me in our hard bodied 1/24 night in Sydney is the proud owner of Black Jacks first racer a speedway car from the very early 50's,Andrew has been invited to Goodwood (I think) to participate in a special Brabham historical meeting.I'm sketchy on the details but I know he leaves in about a months time cars' about to leave now I think.
Newso - That will be the "28" I assume which was a speedway midget racer and according to the book just out on Jack Brabham still exists. I know Brabham is at the Goodwood Festival of Speed 25/6-27/6/04 so that could be where the car is appearing.

David
QUOTE (JohnP @ 22 Jun 2004, 17:33)David seems to have used a similar "bracketless" method although I have to say his looks to be a far more robust job!
Here's the Lotus motor mounted in the frame. It is the same as John's method where the motor rests on the two rails which align and set the height of the motor to the rear axle line. I use a belt and braces approach by adding two small pieces of brass to each end so that the motor is supported all round. I probably don't have to do this but I've always favoured the robust or agricultural approach to making things - definitely unlike Colin Chapman.



David
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I think the belt and braces approach is a pretty sensible idea myself David - particularly if the car is to be hammered in a proxy series! Although it's hard to tell from the pictures it looks like you've shaped the rear brace so you can solder it along the axle bearing. That seems like a mechanically sound idea to me. Trouble is, from a construction point of view I find that rear bracket the hardest single piece to get right: even with just four bends and I'm guessing you have six there!

The other thing I suppose is that by soldering the motor up solid you forego some of the handling benefits from natural flexing of the rails. On the other hand your motor won't fall out!
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QUOTE I've always favoured the robust or agricultural approach to making things
I couldn't agree more David. In fact the vehicle to the left is my 1st reserve proxy entry:



...try getting past that!
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A shame I haven't got a picture yet, but I do happen to have a combine harvester which looks to be approx. 1/32 scale judging by the size of the driver. Yes, it is bigger than your tractor John and thus would prevent at least 3 lanes from passing it


Great work guys, I've only just put the tip of my toe on the road to scratchbuilding - my Lotus 24 is languishing at the moment - too many rtr cars to fiddle with



Mark.
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We are in good company with the agricultural theme as Jim Clark's racing career started with the Young Farmers Association and talking tractors, here's a slot conversion carried out by Derek Baker of the SSRC - almost nothing is safe from him turning it into a slotracer.



This particular tractor is seen here being "driven" by Joel Thura also of the SSRC and the artist behind the Jolly Green Giant from the Bordeaux thread.

You're right John, I do run the piano wire along the rear bearing for extra strength and I find it easy to get the angles right - I always completely cock up the front end which should be simpler but I find it a pain.

David
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Thanks for the info Guys.....I now have all the data I require, but not too much ability to carry it out!....

I think the Prof may well rule against your agricultural vehicles on grounds of tyre width.

Regards

Alan
QUOTE the Prof may well rule against your agricultural vehicles on grounds of tyre width
Gah, hadn't thought of that one Alan. No rule about how many skinny tyres you can have at the back though.
Wish I'd bought one of those Pink-Kar AU hill climbers now!
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QUOTE I think the Prof may well rule against your agricultural vehicles on grounds of tyre width.

Maybe, but just LOOK at the quality and craftsmanship of that figure painting!!!
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Almost there now with the BRM. I've finished the chassis and managed to avoid the accidental tripod this time. The body has been tidied up and the basic paintwork done.



I've got the Patto BRM decal sheet and I'm just waiting on some more of the excellent detailing sets from Maxi Models to complete the driver (Pedro Rodriguez) and the wheel inserts. Fortunately, in 1968 which my F1 cars are based on, quite a few of the teams ran with the same wheels that the Honda and Lola used so Max Winter's products are coming in very useful. In fairness I must also commend ABSlot, Classic & Betta and Pendles for their fast and friendly services which keep our scratchbuilding hobby going.

David
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That's one handsome chassis David! The shell is coming along nicely too - may I ask what paint you used? I have a MRRC BRM P261 waiting in the wings and I'm wondering what to use - shame Humbrol gave up on those racing colours!

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You do beautiful work, David!

Here is a detail drawing of the car. Note that it has rear-view mirrors
:-



Kind regards

Russell
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John - I used Halfords Ford Pine Green which isn't a match to the BRM's I've seen in the flesh but it's fairly close.

Russell - Thanks for the superb drawing. You'll not worry about the minor details of mirrors when you see the liberties I've taken with accuracy on this car! I'm sort of building the 1968 Belgian GP car where Pedro almost won but for almost running out of fuel, for total accuracy I should have widened the nose and blanked the radiator extractor ducts and also widened the cockpit/windscreen intake vent and added small fins on the nose. I have done none of this and to further stray from accuracy I've put the drivers name decal on it from 1969, purely because it was too nice not to use. Sometimes you just have to build a car the way you want it to look rather than getting bogged down with the detail - that's my excuse anyway.

Got my stuff from Maxi Models today so I can get on and finish it now.

David
Thanks David - looks good to me. Whilst trawling the www for references I also discovered this handy link:

EQUIVALENCES FOR RACING COLOURS WITH TAMIYA
That's very useful John, I've saved it in my favourites.

David
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I managed to get into the model room today and I've finished the BRM.

Here are a couple of pictures of the actual car in 1968.


This is Richard Attwood at Monaco - second place.


Here Pedro Rodriguez follows Bruce McLaren at Spa on his way to second place.

And here are pictures of the slot car. I haven't actually completely finished it as I still need to fit the body mounting post and the mirrors!! - Russell.





David
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Beautiful


I think this one might be too nice to risk in the proxy race as well David!
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David,

That is amazing!
Just beautiful worksmanship. I love that car! I agree with John though, I'm not sure I could send it off to a proxy race.

How did you build the exhaust pipes?

Steve
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Absolutely stunning, David!

Kind regards

Russell
QUOTE (PastimeRaceway @ 2 Jul 2004, 00:35)How did you build the exhaust pipes?
Steve - I only painted the exhausts they are the original moulding of the wonderful Classic shells. I did actually add the intake trumpets other than that it's as bought. I know I keep banging on about them but these shells are just £5.50 and are superb, they open up so many model making opportunities for the slot car builder.

David
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