[Kevan]

Now I mentioned Lego tyres, it reminded me of a post earlier this year on another forum, a guy who said Lego tyres work surprisingly well...and cheaper than chips i.e. pennies in the pound in comparison to 'racing' tyres.

So who's tried them?

They'd need a wheel with a centre rib like the Revoslots but a 3DP wheel would work well...me off to find a tyre and check them out.

 

[Andrea.S]

Now I mentioned Lego tyres, it reminded me of a post earlier this year on another forum, a guy who said Lego tyres work surprisingly well...and cheaper than chips i.e. pennies in the pound in comparison to 'racing' tyres.

So who's tried them?

They'd need a wheel with a centre rib like the Revoslots but a 3DP wheel would work well...me off to find a tyre and check them out.

Hi Kevan,
I tried some Lego tyres on my experimental cars and, on a plastic track (I'm using Polistil which is similar to Carrera or Scalextric), they are not so bad.. but keep in mind I'm running 200/250 grams cars because of the Lego bricks. Lego tires comes only in a soft compound and wear very fast by the way.

-Andrea

 

[Andrea.S]

Hello Andrea,

it seems as if we booth had the same idea. I also started with Slot.it Motor Mount and did a few car buildings on it, but recognized one problem: To few studs near the motor, especially when you try to build up the Speed Champions.

My idea looks like this

View attachment 351463

View attachment 351464

Did you have problems using the 1:32 parts? Espacially the gears looked very used after a short driving time with about 250 grams. I think that is the main problem, with a Lego slotcar you always have a "double shell" on the outside which increases the weight unfortunately.

Greetings from Germany

Patrick

Hi Patrick !
Nice to see someone else is sharing the same interest in slotcars and Lego 😁

I preferred to keep the top of the motor free of studs so to have some circulating air to keep it "fresh" because, as you saw, pushing and braking 250 grams car is quite an hard work for it !
The mass of the "bodywork" might need a long can motor to improve acceleration and braking thanks to the higher torque it reaches, but I still have to try one.
By the way, at the moment, I run at least thousands of rounds of my track with the Ferrari 512 with original 9/28 transmission and no problems with the gears (using teflon grease on them). Only thing I can say, tires (slot.it for plastic tracks) I tried are wearing very fast ! A couple tires is not lasting more than 2000 rounds.

To keep the weight low, I'm now trying to reproduce Formula 1 cars, which uses less than half the bricks in weight than 1970's classic cars I build before.

Here is a freshly built 1989 Ferrari 640 (just missing mechanical parts):

and how it should look like if only I had all the bricks in the right color :

I will install the front axle with R133-ZZ bearings (ordered, on the way) which are 4.8mm as outer diameter, and should lay well inside the technic 1x1 bricks with hole

- Andrea

 

[Andrea.S]

first "formulino" I tried to build and run on track, just to see how it handles with shorter wheelbase (from pickup to rear axle) and far less weight:

The complete car built this way, is less than 100 grams pilot minifig included.

-Andrea

 

[Patty - brickracer]

Hi Andrea,

the Formula 1 cars look very nice and you re right: This saves a lot of weight. For the motor heat I have intended air ducts on the top. If you have a chance, try the Slotdevil 7024 motor. I am using this type for years now as a substitute on every car when a 13D type motor dies. It has a great torque on lower voltage, normally I drive my 200 grams cars with a 8/28 gear between 7 and 9 volts.

Patrick

 

[dvd3500]

Did you know LEGO Is the World's biggest tyre manufacturer, production peaking at 381 Million in 2010 but today averages at around 306 Million per year.

I did know that... I am great at parties... :-D

 

[Patty - brickracer]

The simplyfied formula is: Less technique - more studs

@Andrea.S Your cable-management looks very nice. Can you assemble it from above or do you habe to thread it throu?

Patrick

 

[Andrea.S]

The simplyfied formula is: Less technique - more studs

@Andrea.S Your cable-management looks very nice. Can you assemble it from above or do you habe to thread it throu?

Patrick

Hi Patrick,
for the cables I designed two square section slots just under the top studs (as in pictures).
The cables can fit these two slot by removing them from the pickup and brass terminals and pushing their way in.
This way, the cables will never move during track sessions and they're not in the way for the bricks which have to be attached to the frame. I came to this solution so you can move the motorized frame from a body to another with less effort.

-Andrea

 

[Patty - brickracer]

Hi to all,

here are two iconic Lego Speed Champions for the racetrack. The Aston Martin wheel inserts fit perfect in the BRM wheels, the Audi inserts need a support for the Scaleauto wheel.

Have a nice evening (or morning, depending on...)

Patrick

 

[Patty - brickracer]

Hi to all,

my next step, after making the Lego cars drive, is making the Lego street passable.

Check this out:

 

[Andrea.S]

Hi to all,

my next step, after making the Lego cars drive, is making the Lego street passable.

Check this out:

This is a very good idea to create an integrated environment between Lego and slotcars ! My dream would be a Lego Montecarlo circuit with Formula 1 Slotcars running across the streets. Very expensive indeed.

-Andrea

 

[Patty - brickracer]

This is a very good idea

Thank you. Right now the the first two Lego Worlds get built. If you are interested you can see them on Insta.
@patsonbricks
@lotharmichel1981

Maybe we will see a few more in the future...

 

[Andrea.S]

The current status of development: 5 cars from Formula 1 1989 season are ready to race

- Andrea

 

[Patty - brickracer]

This looks very nice: I like the "S"-Overalls of the drivers (I had them with my Lego motorbike shop in the 80s)

I don´t have a clue about Formula 1 but I think this is: McLaren, Ferrari, Benetton (Ford?), Renault maybe and an unknown yellow car.

I have also finished one last weekend and did a small stunt on my track:

 

[Andrea.S]

This looks very nice: I like the "S"-Overalls of the drivers (I had them with my Lego motorbike shop in the 80s)

I don´t have a clue about Formula 1 but I think this is: McLaren, Ferrari, Benetton (Ford?), Renault maybe and an unknown yellow car.

When I was a young boy (looong ago) lego pilot's uniform was the jacket with an S and black/red stripes, and 30 years after I still use them for my cars

You are right for the others, yellow one should be a Lotus Judd but I understand it can be unrecognizable because it's lacking stickers:

I have also finished one last weekend and did a small stunt on my track:

It looks funny ! And that's the way it should be !

-Andrea

 

[Yosupra]

A mazing job

any link to download your chassis?

 

[Patty - brickracer]

any link to download your chassis?

No, there is no link, but I have another short. Enjoy...

 

[Yosupra]

No, there is no link, but I have another short. Enjoy...

why you didn't share it?

 

[Patty - brickracer]

I guess you mean "give away" my working time to a totally stranger when you say "share". Why should I do that? It takes a huge amount of time to develope products at this level. I assume that you haven´t designed parts like this on your own, so please show some respect to people who do.

Besides, without an at least middle-class business machine it would be hard work to fullfil the needs of both worlds: slotcar parts AND brick dimensions.

 

[Patty - brickracer]

Lego Porsche 963 on 3-part brickracer. It is pretty fast for a Lego Slotcar...OK it´s a Porsche.

Building instructions with pictures.