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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive had my track wired with both brakes and reversing switches but have had major issues with new truspeed controllers and the more I unwire and rewire my driver station the more confused im becoming.

My plea is for someone in my vicinity Lowestoft to pop round and lend me there wiring expertise for an hour or so.

Cheers Wayne
 

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Please tell us more about the issues with the Tru Speed controller.
If you have an ordinary resistance controller to hand, you could see if that has similar issues.
That might give some clues about where the problem is.

P.S. You are right the best solution is somebody to pop round and lend you their wiring expertise ... sorry I cannot help with that, I'm far too far from Lowestoft
 

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Me and Wayne have gone through a lot on email yesterday.

Putting the power leads direct to a car, it seems the power supply was back-to-front. But an older Club Mk1 Truspeed worked fine last week, so that is odd


One new Truspeed doesn't work and the other is on full power. So, I also think there might be a wire or two connected incorrectly somewhere. That's why I think it best for someone to have a proper look, face-to-face, as it were.

Steve has told Wayne that the controllers are for a positive wired track - as per the diagrams on the BSCRA website, which is what we do in HO club racing and what Wayne has used. The only difference is we run the +ve wire to the left hand rail, which simply reverses the car's direction.

We add in the AB Slots diode brake switch to the driver station, so resistor controllers have brakes. We have a bypass setting for EC controllers (or the full brake setting). Put together it looks like this:



Controller wiring should be like this (thanks to BSCRA site):

 

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Woodcote has pretty much answered for me there cheers Andy.

yean i have the pwm ll which when plugged in puts full power to the car as soon as its on track and unfortunately i blew up one of the Mt1 truspeeds which was also doing the same thing.

I've just had a thought could it be a problem with the bypass for ec controllers part of my brake pot thats causing the truspeeds to run on full all the time.

cheers wayne
 

· Rich Dumas
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4,642 Posts
If you want to use electronic controllers those are polarity sensitive. Electricity can only go through the controller in one direction. Here is a wiring diagram for an HO track with standard positive polarity. If you want reversing switches there has to be a separate one for each lane located between the controller hookup and the track rails. Note that with HO cars the negative rails are on the right looking in the direction of travel. If your track works OK with resistor controllers and you have reversing switches in the right place there is a simple cure for the Truespeed controller not working. Simply reverse the wires at the power supply, that will change the polarity and get the controller working. Flip the reversing switch to get the cars running in the right direction.

 

· Rich Dumas
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If I was there I probably could fix your problem right away. You should check to be sure that the Truespeed controller works on a track that is wired correctly. I don't know how robust those are when they are misconnected and it might have gotten damaged. Many regular transistorized controllers will give you full speed when they are in the off position if the brake wire is not connected. Many people have a problem reading schematics, just as many people can't find their way around by reading maps. You may have to disconnect nearly everything and try to get just one lane working for a start. The nagative side of the power supply should go straight to the right hand rail looking in the direction of travel. The brake wire should go to the same place. The wiper wire from the controller connects to the left hand track rail looking in the direction of travel. The last wire goes from the plus sife of the power supply to what would be the full speed end of a resistor controller. In the US that would be a White wire and is marked as L+ on woodcote's diagram.
 
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