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There is a bit of work getting them to go as quick as that.
On some models you have to dremel a little into the front axle mounts to enable some reamed brass tube (as axle holder) to sit at the right height.
Front wheels glues and trued, the guide mount modified and a Slot,it CH10 fitted, and the guide sitting full depth, the front wheel touching but splitting the weight with the guide, and the body only 1mm ground clearance.
At the back, "collar" the slop in the scaley axle bush with super-glue in the time honoured way, ensure the wheels are sitting on the axle to make a outer track width of 66 - 67mm, the wheels need a buff to roughen the surface before gluing on NSR ultra-grips or Slot.it F22 "F1" tyres.
give the body a little float to compensate for not having a floating pod.
Everything needs to be put together nice and square and flat of course, and the motor glued in.
What you end up with is a car with good guide lead, light weight, looooooow COG and wide track - and grippy tyres.
Allt he manufacturer's vaguries have been removed, you have a tight little rocket.
The video was a demo, they are actually running that track much faster. 91? feet in under 7 seconds with a mabuchi motor.
it is just the physical dimensions combines with low COG and light weight that gives them such sticky cornering.
Phil, our tuning isn't too bad, we have places 2, 3 and 4 in the NZPR CanAm proxy series out of the same club, and these are only 0.3 slower a lap than the best proxy cars on the same track - and Jazzbell (Adelaide) is running a flat-6R in his chappy, I have a yellow-bell in mine in P2, and kennedy-rd and slotmadmac are about a sheet of tissue behind me with the Slot.it Alfa and that insane Spirit Ferrari that Mac built.
It gives us a fun, pretty indestrucible class, and it teaches the newcomers what tricks can be done to make any car fast - a good tutorial.
Mac and another guy have built about 20? of these plus and sold them at cost of parts to everyone, especially the newcomers to club who are faced with cost of many classes and learning to build to club standard, so it helps in many ways.
I have now built 4 more up, and they are simply fun to set up.
AAWSCC - running them stock would probably drive us a bit nuts. We run very smooth wood tracks throughout the club, and all our classes are tuned - even when no swap out parts are permitted such as Ninco pre '65 which only allows for a "control" tyre change. Anything which bobble aloing with unpredicitable deslots or very slow corner speed would probably drive us a touch nuts. I tried setting one up pretty stock, and it wasn't a lot of fun to drive in our environment.
We're not total speed nuts though, for some classes, and some tracks we knock back the volts to make for "civilised" driving. Eg Fly trucks at 9V on one track, on my track 10V for them, Slot.it group C, etc.
Variable voltage is no problem, all the controlers can handle down to 9. Slot.it, Carsteen, DiFalco, 3rd Eye, and Professor motor (we have a line in custom built PMs, which Andy Smith produces for our market with the V range officiallyset as 10 - 15 but actually working right anywhere from 8V upwards)
Mac - you should publish your safety pin trick here somewhere too.
On some models you have to dremel a little into the front axle mounts to enable some reamed brass tube (as axle holder) to sit at the right height.
Front wheels glues and trued, the guide mount modified and a Slot,it CH10 fitted, and the guide sitting full depth, the front wheel touching but splitting the weight with the guide, and the body only 1mm ground clearance.
At the back, "collar" the slop in the scaley axle bush with super-glue in the time honoured way, ensure the wheels are sitting on the axle to make a outer track width of 66 - 67mm, the wheels need a buff to roughen the surface before gluing on NSR ultra-grips or Slot.it F22 "F1" tyres.
give the body a little float to compensate for not having a floating pod.
Everything needs to be put together nice and square and flat of course, and the motor glued in.
What you end up with is a car with good guide lead, light weight, looooooow COG and wide track - and grippy tyres.
Allt he manufacturer's vaguries have been removed, you have a tight little rocket.
The video was a demo, they are actually running that track much faster. 91? feet in under 7 seconds with a mabuchi motor.
it is just the physical dimensions combines with low COG and light weight that gives them such sticky cornering.
Phil, our tuning isn't too bad, we have places 2, 3 and 4 in the NZPR CanAm proxy series out of the same club, and these are only 0.3 slower a lap than the best proxy cars on the same track - and Jazzbell (Adelaide) is running a flat-6R in his chappy, I have a yellow-bell in mine in P2, and kennedy-rd and slotmadmac are about a sheet of tissue behind me with the Slot.it Alfa and that insane Spirit Ferrari that Mac built.
It gives us a fun, pretty indestrucible class, and it teaches the newcomers what tricks can be done to make any car fast - a good tutorial.
Mac and another guy have built about 20? of these plus and sold them at cost of parts to everyone, especially the newcomers to club who are faced with cost of many classes and learning to build to club standard, so it helps in many ways.
I have now built 4 more up, and they are simply fun to set up.
AAWSCC - running them stock would probably drive us a bit nuts. We run very smooth wood tracks throughout the club, and all our classes are tuned - even when no swap out parts are permitted such as Ninco pre '65 which only allows for a "control" tyre change. Anything which bobble aloing with unpredicitable deslots or very slow corner speed would probably drive us a touch nuts. I tried setting one up pretty stock, and it wasn't a lot of fun to drive in our environment.
We're not total speed nuts though, for some classes, and some tracks we knock back the volts to make for "civilised" driving. Eg Fly trucks at 9V on one track, on my track 10V for them, Slot.it group C, etc.
Variable voltage is no problem, all the controlers can handle down to 9. Slot.it, Carsteen, DiFalco, 3rd Eye, and Professor motor (we have a line in custom built PMs, which Andy Smith produces for our market with the V range officiallyset as 10 - 15 but actually working right anywhere from 8V upwards)
Mac - you should publish your safety pin trick here somewhere too.
