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Adding Choke to controller

5141 Views 23 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  RichD
Hi all I have several controllers with variuos controlls ie brakes, sensitivity, traction control etc but would like to add a choke switch preferably on the wire cables so that I can quickly change the max voltage for a technical section of track. Ideally also with a dial to dial in the desired voltage for the switch to use (ie 9 or 10 volts).

Are there any parts that I should consider that I could get from the local electorinics shop.


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Hi, you could use a 1 pole 12 position rotary switch with diode.s wired into the power lead from transformer to controller dependent on motor's used for diode rating amp wise eg. 1/3/6amp. phil.
Hi, don't want to put a dampner on thing's but the diode's that have been suggested earlier are for reduceing your track voltage at about 0.7v these being rectifier diode's, for adjustable brake's it's better with Schottky rectifier diode's these have a drop around 0.3v giving a closer spaceing per step, for motor's up to boxer/nsr IN5817 are what's used but you say your useing 3amp are you useing alot hotter motor's as for adjustable sensitivity while useing resistor controller's as with parma eco's or plus the same rotary switch can be used but with 3watt wirewound resistor's these work fine with motor's mentioned you can get 7 or 10 watt if needed they are soldered seperatly as opposed to the chain of diode's and are wired to be in parallel with existing resistor I use a 35ohm value's starting at 180ohm down to 15ohm in nine step's with this set-up your reduceing the ohm's of the controller resistor your useing. phil.
Hi, if you go too low on resistor value it does go non-linear I started useing wire-wound pot's to give a stepless change but with pot's if you get a short you can burn out part's of the track plus there's nothing to stop it being turned to far down that's why it's best useing resistor's 15ohm is my lowest at present which give's a overall value of around 16ohm from the controller but you still have the feel that original resistor give's you it's hard to explain untill youv'e tried one.Some people have built them and not got on with them other's the reverse iv'e made 5 at our club and 3 other racer's making their own as a simple,basic,fairly cheap £18 minus controller you can reduce the number of resistor's to make it cheaper I think there a great first introduction to what adjustability provide's. phil.
forgot to say price include's adjustable brake's, cable, and plastic box it's contained in. phil.
Hi, not able to put on any diagram sorry but presuming your wanting voltage reduction ( but brake diodes are connected to the switch in the same way ) with useing 6amp only problem is the size of the diode and it's wire with 1 to 2amp diodes you can easily connect two of the wire's per loop of the switch contact, iv'e used 3amp's before but wire thickness only allows one to be soldered thru the loop the other being soldered either to the out side of the contact or the other diodes wire, hope it's not getting to confuseing so far normally the diodes wires are cut at around 5mm and soldered fairly close to the contact's but with the larger dimension's I would suggest working with the full length of wires at first to see how they sit round the switch. Right first you want to bend outwards the switch's contact's 3 to 4mm from vertical to end up with what I call a crowned look this will make gap between contact's slightly wider giving a bit more space to play with, next you want to bend the diodes wires at a rightangle to the body of the diode to make the look of a elongated U ( with diode at base ) do this to all the diodes your useing they should have a silver coating at one end this show's which way the voltage is flowing, they say a picture speak's a thousand word's probbably close by time finished anyway looking at the back of the switch it's numbered 1 to 12 you want to start at 1 placeing the first diode's wire thru the contact loop with the silver end of diode to the right so that the other wire silver end is going to go thru loop 2.You can push the two wires thru the loops to see how far they will go then place another of the diodes in same orientation as before above the contacts 2 and 3 to see if there's going to be enougth space if not pull the previous diode out a bit at a time untill you feel there's a suitable gap you can bend the diode's up or down onece there all soldered anyway to give space between them if your ok with position then solder the first diode in loop 1 remembering to have silver end to the right leaving the diode's other wire un-attached place wire of second diode same way round in contact 2 leaving it's other wire as the first continue this with the number of diode's your useing with the last diode it's other wire can be soldered thru the next contact loop then solder the remaining loose wire's to their position's second wire first diode to 2 second wire diode two to 3 third to 4 and so on sorry but will have to continue at later date not my computer and need to exit the building will try to finish tomorrow phil.
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Hi, to continue if you solder remaining wire's to their respective contact's but starting from last diode to first the preceding soldered wire hold's thing's in place I went back to check the switch's iv'e wired up this way for a project some year's ago, useing the 3amps must admit there a very tight fit but if you put the wire's in a vice and squeeze them they then go thru quite easily but your useing 6amps and presume the whole diode is of a larger size then you would need to solder to the outside of the contact if you bend the loop back on it's self to provide a flat surface then after tinning the loop and wire well and holding the wire with plier's the wire can transfer heat very quickly then soldering should be ok. To connect the switch to the main wireing solder the positive wire from the transformer if your track's positive wired to the first contact number 1 then a wire soldered to the centre/ wiper contact and back to your controller or controller socket, after all the above and still want to use the switch's but think it will look a bit messy you can attach diode's to a terminal block on one side with wire's from the other side and then soldered to the switch or simpler yet just use the terminal block with diode's in a chain attach transformer wire as above to first wire first diode then attach crock clip on return wire and just clip on desired diode for adjustable brake's the set-up's the same but connect brake wire from controller to contact 1 then wire from centre/wiper contact to controller plug/track useing suitable schottky r/diodes IN5817 are ok for up to Boxer/NSR motor's which ever way used contain it all in a box for safety, sorry it's been a bit long winded hope it help's phil.
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