QUOTE (RichG @ 27 Jun 2005, 08:39)Here is something that you might like to try. As long as the Led brightness level is OK or too bright it can be made to work.
Remove the existing + & - wires to the board.
So no mods at all to the board, connect as shown.
If in Rear or Brake mode the Led's are too dim then this will not work. However if they are OK then we are done. If they are too bright in either mode then add a resistor in series with the appropriate lead.
I have tried this method and it works fine!
For some peoples' taste the Tail-light setting may be a little on the dim side ... But I think it is certainly a good differential between tails and brakes (works for me).
Also this method is much quicker (simpler) than the GT40 method (no diode or resistor needed), in my case I merely cut the pos + neg leads from the pickup shoes connection (this was an analog mini I converted), added a little length and connected them straight to the chip (HL and Neg). All I needed to do was then fabricate my brake lead (BK) and connect this to the bottom of the diode on the rear lighting board.
I threw a N4004 diode, a single resistor and 4 superbrite Leds into a circuit .
I used the F1 chip so I needed to feed them by splicing wires into pickup to put headlights and tailights in my Fly Coda Lunga.
I was tring to emulate the simplicity of the Scalex boards (eg GT40).
Works a charm.
Search back through this thread, I ask about wiring a MINI, Rich shows how, IM sure it will be very similar if not the same.
...and when you search back through threads you often find things you've missed, (talking to self here), as I did when I found this little gem from Rich i discussing the Slot.it board lighting outputs:
QUOTE The same almost certainly holds for the F1 chip, just needs someone to check it out.
I have wondered about this, must have a closer look. Tnx Rich!
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