SlotForum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,233 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi guys, ok just looked at the ranch design site and and the proxy pics from pfuetze, and i need to do a car with proper response and power for the mex track.
at present all mine are diecasts on scx chassis, with the exception of one resin and one plastic. i don´t like pin guides because of all the sharp corners on the track.
my best car is either the pontiac resin or the diecast lambo, because both are long and low, but i can´t say that either really have the extra power in the motors that i want, i´m left with the feeling that they are missing the top 2 gears!.theres a lot of dead space on the top of the parma controller

so, heres the question.
out of the ranch design packages which would be the most suitable for the mexican track (loads of dust and tight radii)
i refer to which are the best tyres and , whats this business about sidewinder or not..i assume you have to find your own motor if you go for the sidewinder chassis??.i don´t realy want to be having to clean tyres every lap
i have to say the resin willys has my name all over it.
cheers in advance sig
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,410 Posts
Hi Sig, some interesting questions there.

Sidewinders will only fit in a wide car, it was a tight fit in the Lancia, involving grinding everything to the minimum.

My rally track has several 1 1/4" radii corners and a deliberately slippy surface. The HO type motors, together with small diameter, narrow RD wheels and tyres is the quickest combination so far. Even with a modified Artin chassis, this combination gets round my track much faster than the Carrera Go Focus with swivel guide that I have been using as a test car.

But this speed was not found until the rear tyres were glued and trued, then they suddenly gave the grip that was needed. I do have to give the track a wipe with a damp cloth if it has not been used for a while as it, like yours, collects a lot of dust.

For a smooth racetrack such as Peter's, the speed of the radio shack can and the low C of G given by the aluminium RD chassis seems to be a good combination, but on my rally track I need a slightly higher chassis to deal with sharp changes of gradient and not as much power.

I think that your track needs a Mk 111 Cortina!

Regards, Lloyd
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,233 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
QUOTE (Lloyd.L @ 14 Nov 2011, 10:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I think that your track needs a Mk 111 Cortina!

Regards, Lloyd
you´re damn right, however not even found a diecast that looks right in my opinion..but maybe its the ride height they put on those things!
interesting that the skinny tyres are faster, is that because they slide less?..sliding is an important asset for me here!
also the motor that comes with the ranch design pack, ? any good , is that the ho thing you´re talking about, i´d rather have a one stop shop? if poss
cheers sig
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,410 Posts
Hi Sig, the HO motor is called a GM114955 on the RD website. It is the same Mabuchi motor that is used in Scalextric Micro and Tomy/AFX HO cars. Easily available on ebay cheaply. It has plenty of grunt for our little cars.

The Sidewinder chassis used the Radio Shack type can motor that is like the Carrera Go/SCX Compact motor.

The HO motor is wider but lower than the can motor. It fits nicely as an inline, still leaving room for some interior detail, but is too wide for use in a sidewinder.

On the skinny tyres thing, they work better for slippy hairpin bends, but for a racetrack it is obviously better to have wide rear tyres to give more traction and less sliding, horses for courses really.

Has your Cortina got 2 or 4 doors?

Regards, Lloyd
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,427 Posts
here´s an article from Phillipe about tuning artin cars, which also applies for other 1/43rd cars: http://web.me.com/pmarchand/Slots/page21/p...e48/page48.html

To get a good handling car, there are some things that have to be done:

- reduce the play in the rear axle. i add a drop of CA glue (superglue) to the bearings and let it dry. turn by hand first until it breaks free. then use your dremel with the rubber barrel (the rubber barrel that normally holds the sanding barrel) and let turn the rear axle until its turning light again. If there is still play left, repeat procedure.
- shorten front axle
- glue tires to the rims (i use CA glue applied with a needle to do this job)
- sand tires
- seal front tires with CA or nailpolish
- for wood tracks with latexpaint: use K&D tires. you can use JelClaws or Ortmann tires, too, but i like the K&Ds
- get the front tires to touch the track on SCX cars
- sand the chassis so it doesn´t touch the body of the car
- loosen the body mounting screws

i really like skinny tires better than the wider ones.
when my last Ranch-Design order will arrive, i will change the rear tires of the MCA to skinnier ones and see what this does to laptimes.

The G14995 is for the Ranch-Design inline chassis. The SideWinderChassis comes with a FF050 motor, i think the Radio-Shack-Motors (same size as SCX or Go motors)

How many volts does the Scaley supply deliver? I think it should be sufficient, as the max. voltage i´m running is 14V for SCX cars (tunes ones, which handle very good). For most other cars i don´t need more than 10 to 12V.
Personally i prefer a parma eco controller, 90 ohms for Go or SCX cars. Maybe a 45 if running really good.

What really helps the cars is an adjustable power supply. you can build one using your scaley supply as well. Just add a diode rotary switch to lower the voltage. http://web.me.com/pmarchand/Slots/page21/p...e58/page58.html
if you want more power - you can use an old PC power supply - connect the +12V to -5V outlet and you get 17V - more power than you will ever need for a routed 1/43rd track. you ´ll have to shorten 2 pins of the PS to get it running. If you would like to go this way, just let me know, than i´ll search for the right pins as i can´t find the link anymore.

hope this helps,
Peter
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,427 Posts
what i forgot: about tire cleaning. every tire looses it grips when getting dirty. the difference is the level of remaining grip. K&Ds work good in this regard, way better than the stock tires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,233 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thats some excellent info right there guys, brilliant!, i´ll get back to you when i´ve had a think
lloyd, its a 4 door gxl, i´ve just found one that looks ok actually, needs lowering of course, but anyone would think they were all police cars!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
I agree with all the advice above. The CarreraGO!!!/SCX Compact can is the FF-030, however. You need a stock FF-030 compared to a RS or Fyrebox 2 as the torque will "kill" you on a dirt road with the hot motors, as stated before.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top