SlotForum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Hi guys

A friend is planning to build a two tier layout for his Scalextric track and railway layout. Each will be on a separate board approx 7 ft square. To make best use of available space (and to secure domestic approval!!!!!) the layouts have to be movable. In use, they will sit across a couple of single beds. When not in use they will be stacked on edge against a wall. The Scalextric will probably be the bottem board, with 6-7 in spacer blocks built in to allow the other board on top when he wants to use the train set. Obviously, both tracks will need to be fixed down to allow the boards to be tipped upright, and buildings/scenery will either have to be low level or removable. Why this approach? The ceilings are quite low, so there isn't room for a fold down type layout, and the room is built into a dormer roof, so a winch down layout is impractical. The boards have to be stackable, as there isn't enough room get one out of the way when you want to use the other.

Sooooooooooo...........

What we need is then to build two 7 ft square decks, that are solid enough to withstand being moved from vertical to horizontal, rigid enough not to flex or warp, and light enough to be moved.

My initial thoughts are to have a 2"x1" timber frame (with bars every 12"?) skinned with 6mm MDF top and bottem. I'd add triangular corner blocks inside the frame to increase strength. The hollow design allows wiring to be concealed. Alternatively the frame could be done in aluminium (at much greater cost....)

Has anyone out there ever attempted anything like this? Anyone got any thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
why not just use a thicker board?
if you planning on using 2 x 6mm boards and a frame, the weight should be the same as possibly an 18mm board.

Have you taken a trip to Wickes, B&Q ect. to feel how flexible and heavy different boards are?
You may be surprised.

What are you dimensions your planning on using?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
548 Posts
6mm MDF is well warp prone...

Non warping is more about the amount and placement of fixing with any board u use.

The best board for not warping is 18mm BB/BB Russian chudo birch with phenol glue but it is expensive and heavy.

If you want light try OSB, Eucalyptus, or Elliotis board, on a frame with max 200mm spacings.
Try a 9 or 12mm board.

Assume your gluing the track down.. If you are routing go with MDF.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,057 Posts
I have 6 boards that are .6m x 1.2m (2' x 4' in imperial measure) and have them on 2"x2" frames that are locked together AND suspended from the ceiling. Topping is 1/2" (12mm?) thick MDF. Check my thread below in my signature to see.
It is also to be moveable... hence the 6 panels stacked with 3 above 3. But very strong and do not warp.

Just for your info...

Cheers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the input guys. I use a lot of MDF on other projects, so I understand the weight issues. I've seen warp on unsupported boards anything up to and including 18mm, and cheaper ply boards as well. With each panel being 7 ft square, thats a lot of wood to move around. The bottem board has to have a flat bottem surface as well for domestic approval, it will be painted/decorated the same as the rest of the room, so that the boards can "disappear" when the room is used for guests. 7x7 is also an ackward size needing at least one joint, which will need reinforing.

Maybe it's just me but I thought that a 2 inch thick frame with a skin on both sides would be more rigid than a jointed single sheet arrangment. The 6 mm MDF is very unlikely to warp once it is fixed to the frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
QUOTE (stricko @ 13 Jan 2012, 12:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thanks for the input guys. I use a lot of MDF on other projects, so I understand the weight issues. I've seen warp on unsupported boards anything up to and including 18mm, and cheaper ply boards as well. With each panel being 7 ft square, thats a lot of wood to move around. The bottem board has to have a flat bottem surface as well for domestic approval, it will be painted/decorated the same as the rest of the room, so that the boards can "disappear" when the room is used for guests. 7x7 is also an ackward size needing at least one joint, which will need reinforing.

Maybe it's just me but I thought that a 2 inch thick frame with a skin on both sides would be more rigid than a jointed single sheet arrangment. The 6 mm MDF is very unlikely to warp once it is fixed to the frame.

Ah your board is 7ft x 7ft so 49ft2 not 7ft2

i thought you were looking for a board of 3.5'X2'
 

·
WRP World Champ 2015/2016
Joined
·
4,279 Posts
6mm MDF, 2x1 frame and a 6mm MDF base on the frame will be pretty rigid, especially with the 12" spacing for bracing. It may be possible to pull it off with 1x1 space frame without flexing too much when being manhadled into position or back to "chameleon mode" against the wall. I thought of 1x1 as it will probably be a little easier to shift it about.

There's a thread in "Tracks and Scenery" somewhere where an American poster did something similar with 3 off 6x2 foot boards alligned together. Worth a read (sorry, Ican't find it right now, but will post link if I find the thread later).

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,057 Posts
You should look at gokartride's blog on this forum. He shows how to build a double skinned board that may give you some ideas. (gokartride's blog link)

Cheers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for that, looks like he started off with similar ideas to my firts thoughts. The foam inserts idea is interesting, but would prohibit passing wires through the table. Good stuff!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,439 Posts
Not had a problem with warping on any of my tracks. See my links below. 12mm MDF on a 50mm x 25mm (2" x 1") frame with a 4mm MDF base. For stacking purposes, I use laminate flooring left overs which are usually available at the local tip. I place them around the edge, this helps the cars stay on the board when deslotting, you don't have to bend down to the floor, And they are rigid enough to support the layer above. They come in anything upto 185mm (7") wide, but you just cut them down. Simples!
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top