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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm planning to convert a Carrera Ferrari 575 Modena into a Prodrive 550. The main difference is in the shape of the radiator aperture, on the 575 it is squarish with two pod like scoops on ether side. I will probably need to sand down the scoops and fill them in plus a fair portion of the main opening as the 550 is a shallower more elliptical mouth shape.

Any suggestions what to use to fill the holes?
 

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For all jobs like this I use Tetrion Woodfil, which is easily found in DIY/hardware shops- or stuff very like it under another name. Comes in a wide tin.
It's meant for wood filling- hence the name, but it's really good for resin shells. It's a two part styrene-based filler, dries hard in 5mins, and files, cuts, sands, paints just like the resin. Excellent stuff and not expensive. You can mix it up thin to do a smooth wash over, or thick to build up large hollows or holes. It doesn't shrink AT ALL. So you can lob a great big bit on all at once, and 5 mins later be working it down to shape. And it stays put. No race damage so far to anything I've used it on.
Also comes in Mahogany tint, I believe, but I like the neutral pine!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
QUOTE (howmet tx @ 12 Nov 2004, 17:00)For all jobs like this I use Tetrion Woodfil, which is easily found in DIY/hardware shops- or stuff very like it under another name. Comes in a wide tin.
It's meant for wood filling- hence the name, but it's really good for resin shells. It's a two part styrene-based filler, dries hard in 5mins, and files, cuts, sands, paints just like the resin. Excellent stuff and not expensive. You can mix it up thin to do a smooth wash over, or thick to build up large hollows or holes. It doesn't shrink AT ALL. So you can lob a great big bit on all at once, and 5 mins later be working it down to shape. And it stays put. No race damage so far to anything I've used it on.
Also comes in Mahogany tint, I believe, but I like the neutral pine!
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Thanks Howmet, I'll give it a try.
 

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Sounds nice Howmet! I'll have to go looking for that. I'm only a small consumer at this stage, but I've just started my second tube of Humbrol filler (found in most hobby stores). That works well I think, but probably not as strong as a two part filler, although it's stood up well on my Ford P68, where I used it just about everywhere, even in the wheel wells where it was crafted very thin without any further support. I pay about 4 Euro for a tube of that stuff and it should last you a while unless you take on any major projects
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Keep us updated on your progress pushrod! Looking forward to seeing your work!
 

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Al Schwartz
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I like Milliput - it is a two part epoxy that is very slow setting - 18-24 hours - but sticks to anything and, per the instructions, can be worked with a little water while still plastic to get a very smooth surface and good detail work. With a little practice, on can build a contour to final shape so that little, if any, shaping or sanding is needed after the material is set

EM
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
QUOTE (Ecurie Martini @ 13 Nov 2004, 06:58)I like Milliput - it is a two part epoxy that is very slow setting - 18-24 hours - but sticks to anything and, per the instructions, can be worked with a little water while still plastic to get a very smooth surface and good detail work. With a little practice, on can build a contour to final shape so that little, if any, shaping or sanding is needed after the material is set

EM
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Nilliput?
Sounds an interesting option. Does anyone know if this is available in the UK?
 

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avoid a lot of the plastic modelling fillers that come in tubes, some of them shrink a lot and can melt the original plastic! Am going to try some of the above suggestions next time...
 

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Jim Moyes
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QUOTE (pushrod @ 13 Nov 2004, 12:46)Nilliput?
Sounds an interesting option. Does anyone know if this is available in the UK?
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Not sure about Nilliput
, but Milliput is available in most good model/craft shops in the UK. I use it myself and once it is set it is very hard and can even be drilled and tapped.

Mr.M
 
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