[Sidecar Steve]

Now that my Scalex sport power bases are toast, I need to hardwire my track. I've read other posts, other boards and checked out Prof Motor's site but just need for someone with some electrical understanding to check my plan.

• My track is Scalextric and SCX
• Controllers (will be) Parma Econo 45ohm
• Power is a 0-15v 30a regulated supply
• My lap timer has a relay box that cuts power to the lanes
• Each lane has its own supply feed

This diagram captures what I'm trying to do and represents one lane only.

I want to make the drivers stations as a plug in component. Also, I want to put a 5a circuit breaker into each station (just in case) but I'm not sure where it goes.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Steve

 

[JohnP]

Hi Steve

If you can lure the little fella away from the campers for long enough this might work for a circuit breaker?

You'd need one for each lane I guess

Trying to be more sensible

your circuit looks about right to me but as I'm not familiar with the Parma wiring I couldn't be sure.

 

[Sidecar Steve]

So I have a saboteur in my midst eh!!!

Looks like I need my 1/32 scale Steve Erwin to sort out my wiring problem

Parma's are wired like this

(diagram by Randy Sluder)

Thanks

Steve

 

[JohnP]

Well that looks hunky dory to me Steve.

As it stands I reckon you could put the croc... erm... circuit breakers anywhere in the box although I'd be tempted to put it between the polarity switch and 3.5mm track socket just in case you use an electronic controller at some point in the future.

Be nice to get a second opinion here though - obviously you should get your 1/32 Steve Erwin to check it out too

 

[Difflock]

Oh ripper! mate!!
Strewth!! That thing's bloody WILD!! [action]sticks head in crocs face[/action]

Steve Irwin - what a great nutter

Mark.

 

[JohnP]

Thanks for the second opinion there Diff - I guess it's OK then

Let us know how it all turns out Steve

 

[Sidecar Steve]

Thanks guys......See diagram above now updated with fuse location. I couldn't find suitable circuit breakers so I went with panel mounted fuses, 3.1a should do the trick.

I've started wiring the whole thing together, the soldering iron has been working overtime tonight.

Will let you know how it turns out.

Cheers

Steve

Why is it when you go to the electronic store for 4 of something they always only have 3 and the part has been discontinued...........................or is it just me

 

[Nep72]

IMHO,

Using blowing fuses might be a little bit frustating when an accidental short appears on the track and you can't find it. Instead of replacing tons of immediately-blown fuses, I install electronic fuses. These electronic devices are very useful to me, they work as a standard fuse, but once the short is removed, power is applied again to the track "ipso-facto".

If you want more info about these components, I suggest to take a look at Farnell in one (no advertising aim) and searc for references 772-392 and 369-6893; both are 3A resettable fuses. The cost? It depens on limit intensity, between 1€ and 2€.

Hope this helps.

By the way, if you are using my schema for XLR connections, please be aware that this weekend I found a problem with XLR connector wiring. Let me check it tonight, I'll let you know my investigation tomorrow.

 

[Sidecar Steve]

Thanks Nep, I had no idea there was such a thing.

I'm very interested to hear what the prob is with your wiring XLR connectors. Keep us posted.

Cheers

Steve

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE

Lanes 1 and 2 now wired, tested and pronounced GOOD!. The fuses are holding up so far, no shorts, no funnt smells and the cars run very well. And at the flick of a switch, reverse direction racing. Now for lanes 3 and 4.

Thanks all for your help

Cheers
Steve