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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Hi Laurence, yes a shame but as I said it's only really suitable for small range of cars The original Airfix Saloon and sports cars are ok as are a lot of the earlier Scalextric sports and saloon cars. A lot of the modern models of cars from the 50's and early 60's can get around it ok but in most cases the motors are to high revving. The more powerful vintage cars also struggle and the most common sight is lots of wheel spin. The later cars, mid 60's onward, are in most cases either to wide, to long or both. Another problem is that crash barriers are needed almost all around the track and they are quite low so the longer cars have a habit of catching on the barriers, especially if the rear of the car is a bit high. The track is also not really suitable for my GP cars.

The end result a lot of the time is just a very warm controller.

Although it may look quite drivable in the above videos in a lot of them I have had to do four or five takes or with some cars I just gave up trying to do five full double laps and just edited laps together.

The new layout is already down and in many ways similar to the track that the Monte replace with the same problem as the previous on with a power drop in the centre section. Will probably put a power tap in place but it shouldn't really need it as there is already a power tap half way around. I have used a single crossover so I run on both lanes and the power straight has both lanes wired together.
 

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8,129 Posts
Look forward to seeing your new track, Keith, and, of course, your wonderful collection of cars running around it.
 

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ParrotGod
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8,233 Posts
you should look for better controllers...Anyway, I enjoyed the layout and videos. Is your new layout any better? It seems to me more a rally course rather than something suitable for more powerful cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
With the space I have available no track will be suited for the more powerful cars but at least I can hit full throttle for a second or so and have some nice wide borders. Most of my controllers are MRRC, using 30 and 40 ohm barrel and a 10 ohm. Both the 30 and 40ohm work well with the standard Airfix cars and the 30 is fine for the Hi-Speed cars. On the Monte most modern home set cars work better with the 40 ohm but they don't really like the elevation changes on the curves and it's very easy over drive the cars and get lots of wheel spin and end up with the car stalled so you end up running most of the track at about three quarter throttle and about half if I use the 30 ohm. The vintage cars that need the 10 ohm controller aren't so much of a problem and are a lot easier to control on the track than a modern Scalextric. It's mainly the 30 ohm controller that gets a bit warm with some cars but that could be because I could probably make use of a 15 or 20 ohm as well. At some point, but probably not until the track is up in the shed, I need to get back to using my Ninco Vero controller, in fact some of it's settings might have been good for the Monte.
 

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Greg Gaub
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14,986 Posts
If you get an electronic controller, it will be changing the voltage, not the resistance. Completely different control. Also, if you get a decent one with an adjustable "sensitivity" (aka starting speed when you touch the trigger) and brake strength, you pretty much will never need another controller again, and can forget all about whatever ohms you had been using. There are a number of controllers out there that fit that basic requirement, and will cost less than having a stable of ohm based controllers to switch between. I've never heard of anyone who switched to an adjustable controller wishing they hadn't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
I've got a basic electronic controller, settings controlled with dip switches but it only works when I run at 12v when I need to reduce the voltage for some of my 1/43rd scale cars to 9v or 7.5v it doesn't work properly. At the moment I don't think the cost of a new controller is warranted as the 30 ohm with brakes, all the controllers I have have brakes, works for at least 80% of my 1/32nd scale cars. Some of the vintage motors need the 10 ohm for full control and some of the high revving Scalextric cars seem easier to drive with the 40 ohm as do most of the 1/43rd scale cars although with a some of these I find not only do I need to reduce the voltage but also a 60/65 ohm controller. If, maybe, when I get involved in some real racing then maybe a new electronic controller will be in order but will I then have to learn to use my finger, instead of thumb, as well as the controller?
 
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