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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took the plunge and decided to try my hand at a scratch build. I have a very big sweet spot for Alfa Romeo, so John Warren sent me two Alfa SSs.

They started life out like this:

P1000576_zps3z9noccr.jpg


My progress so far has been to prime the body, and spray it light blue. I also decided to do a little John Surtees tribute (since he was world champion for MV Augusta and Ferrari, I am sure he must have owned an Alfa too).

Alfa%20ss_zpsf4lzowok.png


I will touch up the chrome around the windows, and add the chrome strip in the bonnet. The chassis will be from PCS, with period Alfa wheel inserts. And then to add the front grill and bumpers, and Alfa badges.

The only thing I might do different in future, is omit the black panel lines (it's the first time I tried these).

The next version will be an all-out racing version, bumperless, and hoping to add a roll cage.

Will follow up with photos as I progress. Please feel free to give some feedback and tips to a scratch build newbie.
 

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Gordon Steadman
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That's a very nice looking shell.

Alfa are my favourite car and this one is very pretty indeed.

I look forward to seeing your progress. The paint job looks very good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice work so far,I'll be following with great interest as I have a couple too but have not started yet.What are you planning regarding motor and rims?
Thanks Alexis,

I am going to run it with a BWA motor - so that I can use it in classics. The wheel inserts will be from John Warren too - the steel looking Alfa wheels.
 

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David Farrow
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Panel lines when done well help to make a car. I have found I get better results if I don't use black. A dark grey or the body colour darkened down works well.
 

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lovely finish, what paint did you use?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
lovely finish, what paint did you use?
Hi Gordon,

I used Tamiya TS23 - the rattle can. Four mist coats, and a polish gives a really nice finish. I might even not clear coat it.

Some more photos of progress - not perfect, but okay for a first attempt. Now just waiting for my pendleslot order to arrive so that I can get started on the chassis (in hindsight I should have fitted the chassis before starting with the body I guess).

0055c858-5d31-4d83-b263-e5bc5a6b0e73_zps


3fbb9e40-fbcc-4009-add0-eb8a96da520b_zps
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction as how to fit the body posts (to fit body to chassis)?
 

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Nice job on the body, to fit posts I've used hardwood dowelling fixed in place with plenty of Araldite. Leave the posts slightly long when fixing, so the car is to high, and then lower by sanding back the posts until the car is at the correct height and rake.

Use 2 posts close together at the rear and also sand these to get the body level left to right.

Hope that helps

Hugh
 

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Al Schwartz
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I prefer machine screws to self tapping screws. This is my approach: I use 2-56 machine screws and 2-56 knurled brass thread inserts (I am certain that there are equivalent metric components depending on your location. The inserts are pressed into 3/16" aluminum tubing. It is a tight fit and no further treatment is needed. I cut the tubes to rough but well overlength sizes and sand the tubes with coarse grit paper to enhance subsequent cementing. The tubes are attached to the chassis with the machine screws and the body temporarily put in place. This is followed by sanding of the free ends of the tubing (sanding drum in a rotary tool) to gradually bring them to the correct length - body at proper height, level side to side and appropriately level or raked fore and aft. When the posts are correct, i Roughly mark their positions on the inside of the body, deposit a dab of 5 minute 2 part epoxy and replace the body, being careful that the position is correct. When this first attachment is hard, I remove the screws and chassis and reinforce the post/body joint with a generous fillet of high strength viscous 2 part epoxy (like PC-2). If the posts are long (>1/4") I often add small triangular "buttresses" cut from 0.032" plastic sheet (or an old credit card) set in the epoxy fillet before it hardens.

The 2-56 machine screws that I use have a spot of non-hardening locking compound on the threads and can be set "loose" without risk of falling out.

EM
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The body posts have been fitted, I dunno - does the stance look right?

Another valuable lesson - fit body posts before spraying and detailing the body. A good polish will make it look good again.

Alfa_zps1b0ttd3y.jpg
 
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