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Having been racing for over 45 years I've never had a problem with alloy wheels coming loose - plenty of problems with plastic wheels, as my clubmates will testify! I've always used the better quality Unbrako screws and HSS wrench tips, or if I've managed to break one, an Unbako allen key.
In the early days with silver steel axles a dog point screw held well but meant it was next to impossible to remove the wheel due to the damage caused by the grub screw. The answer was to grind the end of the screw flat to give the max surface to grip with minimum damage.
Even today I still grind the ends of the screw flat to give max grip on drill blank axles and don't use anything other than drill blanks and don't grind any flats on the axles. Another advantage of grinding a flat on the screw is that the effective length of thread engagement is increased by one to one & a half threads, a great help when there's only four or five threads in the alloy hubs. I've tried stainless grub screws but found the hex drive socket does wear quickly.
As for balancing the wheels I've always thought it unnecessary for plastic car racing but maybe for BSCRA racing where the wheel speeds are much higher.

Regards,
Mike T
 
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