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Greg Gaub
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Yeah, sounds like they chose the wrong voltage for those cars. But, some cars are rated for a voltage much higher than the track can provide, so not much you can do about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
The cars were Carrera, which as I understand, are designed for 14.8V. We were using 14.4V. That may not sound like much of a difference, but this track is long, has a high bank, and typically needs more voltage than most. With these Carreras at 14.4V, once you head toward the high bank, you just pin the throttle until you reach a proper turn after the high bank. We run Slot.it Group C's, no-mag, which many clubs run at 10-11V. We run at 12V, and the power feels about right. For the Carrera IROC race, I think we should have been around 16V. That probably would have at least required a blip going into the high bank. I've been lobbying to have that thing removed.
 

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Greg Gaub
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Yeah, a high bank Carrera track is really just a longer straightaway. I don't mind that, but when a layout has more banked turns than flat ones, and no sharp turns, etc... because the owner prefers speed over driving, I tend to get bored quickly.

I was thinking along the lines of Ninco karts, which use HO-like motors that really do need 18v to be much of a challenge to drive. Not that they aren't a load of fun anyway, just more fun when they can crash at turns rather than only into each other. ;-)
 

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Thanks, Mauricio. Good information.

I have another data point. Tonight, the local club ran an IROC race, and I used my SCP with low current analog cartridge. I could tell that I was slightly down on power compared to other cars. Whatever lane I was in, that car was the slowest down the straights. Not by much. The track voltage, IMO, was low for these cars, and the cars were full throttle for much of the track, so the difference was magnified. On classes where you have to do more driving... I.e. less full throttle time... the SCP is at least as good as a good analog controller, as it is better, IMO, under braking, and accelerating out of corners. Next time I'll lobby for more voltage. I don't much care for racing where I pin the throttle at one point on the track, and leave it there for half a lap.
You're sure you had all the correct settings on your SCP on this run?
When you run in Liniar mode as opposed to Curve mode, the curve button/dial controls the Vmax, if its not dailed to position 10....

...no matter how hard or far you pull the trigger the car won't reach its top speed, it will be limited in top speed to whatever (percentage of full, throttle) the curve dail is set
Its the Kiddy safe mode
lmfao.gif


With kind regards
Tamar
 

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ParrotGod
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...no matter how hard or far you pull the trigger the car won't reach its top speed, it will be limited in top speed to whatever (percentage of full, throttle) the curve dail is set

Its the Kiddy safe mode
lmfao.gif


With kind regards
Tamar
no Tamar you got that wrong. In linear mode, even if the curve dial is set to 0, your controller outputs 100% power when the trigger is pushed to 100%.

That dial affects the power band when the trigger between 0% and 99%.

Here is the manual: http://slot.it/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SCP3manual-EN.pdf

Go to page 19 where there is a nice diagram that explains how it works ;-)
 

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Premium Member
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You're completely right Gio, I stand corrected.

I should not have written "check if you're not in "linear" mode" but if you're in "linear with speed limit" mode.
see Page 23 of the same PDF.
The kid's mode (available on SCP 1 & SCP 2) has been removed on the SCP3.

So unless bemoor was using a SCP3..it could very well be possible that by accident his SCP 1 or 2 was in "linear with speed limit" mode.

As I still have to acquire my SCP3..I want even aware that Slot.it had removed the kiddy mode
innocent.gif


With kind regards
Tamar
 

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Greg Gaub
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Temporarily. The SCP3 will get it back in a future app update.

With the SCP2, it's hard to get it into "kid" mode, as you point out in the manual. Even when it's in that mode, the curve/max knob only effects top speed when it's BOTH in Linear AND the switch on top is on Slow. Without leaving kid mode, if you flip either switch, the limit is ignored.

With the SCP1, the DIP switches on top have to be in one of 4 different combinations. Surely, anyone flipping those switches will have read the manual, and know what mode it's in.

I find it highly unlikely that bemoore managed to get his into a limited mode accidentally, though I guess it's technically possible.
 

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Not for wanting to have the last word...but I did manage to get myself into exactly that position several times..in a race...as I struggled to dial in the controller.
Truth be told this was in my early days of digital racing and I had not read the full manual...and it was dark and around 04 AM
innocent.gif


So unlikely yes, but prone to Murphy's law none the less. Just as unlikely as a really noticeable difference in top speed by using a SCP in analoge mode.

Ok I'll crawl in my bed now
tongue.png


With kind regards
Tamar
 

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ParrotGod
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After I wrote my post I had to leave but I though about editing it to say that this was for mode 1 not kid mode.
 

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Great information in this thread about Oxigen - thanks for all that contributed! Not to sideline it, but I thinks it's related... If I have analog Carrera right now, and want wireless controllers, what would I have to do in order to use the SCP3 controller?
 

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Greg Gaub
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You'd need the SCP3, the CRI, and an analog cartridge that is compatible with your track's power/connection method. If you're still using the Carrera OEM power track, power supply, and controllers, this might be a good opportunity to switch over to club-style connectors and a real power supply. Plenty of wiring diagrams on the 'net, and it's simple enough that even I was able to hook it up. Ideally, find out what nearby analog clubs use for their hookup system, and use the same.
 

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You'd need the SCP3, the CRI, and an analog cartridge that is compatible with your track's power/connection method. If you're still using the Carrera OEM power track, power supply, and controllers, this might be a good opportunity to switch over to club-style connectors and a real power supply. Plenty of wiring diagrams on the 'net, and it's simple enough that even I was able to hook it up. Ideally, find out what nearby analog clubs use for their hookup system, and use the same.
Thanks for the quick response. My Carrera track is custom wired for Positive Polarity and I currently use SCP-2's mated to the modified Carrera power track so that the connections look nice and neat. Here's a pic of it for reference.

IMG_8037.JPG

What's the CRI you mention? I see you mention it on your youtube video channel, in response to a question someone asked.
 

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ParrotGod
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The CRI (Common Radio Interface) is a module that takes any SCP cartridges (it is basically a SCP handle) and can be paired with an oXigen controller like it was a chip.

Here a pic: https://www.topslotsntrains.com/topslotsntrains/final.asp?ref=Slot.It-SCP201L-CRI-SCP-OXIGEN-RADIO-RECEIVER-CARTRIDGE-CONVERTER-&id=13072&manufacturer=%27Slot%20It%27

With an SCP 2 you would need an oXigen cartridge in the controller and the CRI with the analog cartridge.

With the SCP 3 you do not need the oXigen cartridge as the controller is oXigen ready, but you would need the CRI and the analog cartridge.
 

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Greg Gaub
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Yeah, in that case, don't change anything. Just get the CRI and an oXigen cartridge to form the wireless bridge between the SCP2 and the analog cartridge. One set per controller.
 

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Now I think I understand a bit more - correct me if I'm wrong... using my current SCP-2 controllers.

I purchase a CRI which connects to my current SCP-2 Analog Cartridge, which is wired to my power base as in the picture above.

I also purchase an Oxigen cartrige gets inserted into my current SCP-2.

I then can follow Greg's video on how to pair a chipped car to the controller.

EDIT: I think you answered the same time as I did, Greg, thanks for the confirmation!
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I know about the "kiddie mode", and I checked to make sure I wasn't using that mode. I wasn't. I am fully capable, though, of having the controller in the wrong mode. My preferred mode is "linear with step". Twice now I've found the LIN/CRV switch in the CRV position. Like many of you, I'm still doubting my results. Maybe I just didn't adjust to the downforce of the Carrera cars. I can't seem to stop myself from blipping going into the high bank. I'm not sure that those cars needed the blip. Maybe I just drove poorly. Prior to the Carrera IROC race was a vintage Le Mans race where I ran a Scaley GT40 SW. It did not seem down on power compared to other cars, but of course it could be that my car is just a bit faster than others (I think I'm the only person who breaks in motors). I'm an engineer with access to test equipment at work. I'm going to have to bring some controllers to work, and characterize the voltage drops at various current levels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
More data... as if you guys really aren't tired of this yet. Last race, I was able to do some testing with my "Vintage Le Mans" car (a Scaley GT40), using my SCP1 and my OSS electronic (but analog) controller. At 14.4V track voltage, I was able to achieve the best lap time (slightly) with my SCP. We ran another IROC race with the same Carrera cars. Track voltage was 14.4, and this time, using my SCP, I didn't seem down on straight speed. I think I need to re-do these tests at 12V. It may be that the higher track voltage eliminated the disadvantage of the slight voltage drop of the SCP, but at 12V, the voltage drop may be enough to be problematic.
 

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The higher the voltage the lesser a 0,5v drop will make a difference.
Power drop is not linear, an 0,6v drop at 12v will create less difference than 0,5v at 10v.
 

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ParrotGod
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I lost the track of where this is going: are you talking about using the SCP1 as an analog controller with the analog cart and checking the drop in voltage introduced by the controller?
 
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