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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
right, you know how the e-tailer got out of this one?

It's down to the track surface, my driving and all those magnuts I have in the car.

It's a Fly Racer Evo RS, thats right Evo RS. it lasted 2 weeks. I'm not happy.

here's the damage that my driving style caused.





just wonderful eh? I thought so... about as funny as a fart in a spacesuit!

Rob.
 

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Inte
How about taking you taking an analytical approach to your car with regard to exactly what happened and how it happened? Let's see if we can figure this out. Well, I can't from here, but you might be able to!

Is the axle a snug fit in its bearings?
Are the axle bearings a tight fit in the chassis?
Is the axle straight?
Could there be too much clearance in the groove that locates the motor shaft in the contrate, this allowing the contrate to oscillate from side to side and producing varying mesh contact?
Could the contrate have been already a little distorted, producing same effect as above?

Is the motor shaft on the same plane as the axle?
Is the motor at right angles to the back axle?
Is the motor loose in its mounts?
Could the motor shaft be loose or bent?

Were the gears lubricated?

I'm not sure if this particular car uses standard Fly gears. Bad gear tooth shape could be a cause, ie, spur pitch incompatible with contrate, but that would be difficult for any of us to identify

There may well be more factors to consider.
But after considering them all, we may be inclined to conclude that the contrate material is simply too soft for the power it has to transmit.

This sort of feedback ought to be welcomed by Fly, if it is constructive and could lead to improvements that enhanced their racing reputation, rather than the opposite.

Worth a try? Get the brain in gear and see what you can diagnose!
 

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Hi Rob,

Whilst there have been issues with Fly gears in the past, yours looks like the newest version (similar design to Slotit) and much improved. No point in having a pop at the retailer if you have modified it by adding magnets. Magnets create more drag so when you "gun" it out of a bend, with all that downforce, it puts extra stain on the drivetrain. As the car is designed for non-mag racing I dont think you would get very far with Fly either.
Once you modify something you break the warranty. Mind you, taking that to the "n"th degree, even gluing in the bearings and motor could be construed as a mod...

gjb52
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well, this has been settled with the etailer (no names I'm not that bad)
I have already emailed fly anywho.

yes there is movement in the bearings, which I found but not a lot, I didnt think this would cause such a problem

I glued the motor and bearings with superglue as per... so no movement there.

I added NO weight or magnets, like the etailer suggested I did. I simply ran the car out the box. I also checked the axle's from front and back and put the stright one on the back, there was a slight curve in one, which is on the front.

I'm not stupid and use common sense, and yes these are the slot it type gears, and after I had stripped it, I had a scrape of the side with a scalpel and then did the same with a slot it and I am almost convinced they are the same material!!!

Rob.
 

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But have you come to any conclusions as to why it might have happened?
I think quite a few people would like to get to the bottom of this.
If everything else is OK, then as I suggested, do you think the crown gear is perhaps at fault in some way?

Another thought - were the gears noisy when new?
Did the noise level change over time?

Another other thought!
If you had a micrometer, you could check the width of the shaft locating channel in the crown gear bosses and make comparisons between the Fly and the Slot.it. I suspect that over-large freeplay here might be the root of the problem.
(BTW, does anyone know the proper name for that channel?)
A metal motor shaft running in a metal crown wheel boss channel needs lubrication MUCH more than a nylon bossed spur. Could lack of lubrication have created rapid wear?

This is something that I would think never happens with sidewinders - or does someone else know better?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
But have you come to any conclusions as to why it might have happened? *squints at nothing* not not really.. still as puzzled as before although, Mooster's gear gave way at our 4 hour event which was the same car (different colour)

I think quite a few people would like to get to the bottom of this.
yep, me being one of them although the vette gears seemed to be the same

If everything else is OK, then as I suggested, do you think the crown gear is perhaps at fault in some way?
This seems to be the case not saying that it is but looking likely

Another thought - were the gears noisy when new? Not really
Did the noise level change over time? yes, after about 1.5hours of running it went a bit coarse but settled back down..
Another other thought!

If you had a micrometer, which I dont
you could check the width of the shaft locating channel in the crown gear bosses and make comparisons between the Fly and the Slot.it. I suspect that over-large freeplay here might be the root of the problem.
this maybe the case coupled with sloppy bearings

(BTW, does anyone know the proper name for that channel?)
A metal motor shaft running in a metal crown wheel boss channel needs lubrication MUCH more than a nylon bossed spur. Could lack of lubrication have created rapid wear?

I lubricated it when I glued it up as per with trinity bearing oil. and it was still wet/greasy when I came to take it off.

Rob.
 

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Probably it was a defect in the crown gear ( slot.it ) ; watch if there is a "3" written on it : it could be born wrong; contact Slot.it and I think they will replace it for free.
cheers
 

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I'll put my money on the axel shifting left and right being the cause. You shouldn't rely on the motor shaft to keep the axel in place (it's bad for the motor too). For the next gear I'll suggest shimming the rear end tp take out the play.
 

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I think LSI has once again pinpointed the most likely cause.
Washers/spacers between wheels and chassis could certainly help to prevent this and possibly eliminate it altogether - definitely worth a try for the future.

A couple of potential problems arise though.
One is the difficulty of positioning push-on wheels exactly right to minimise 'slack' yet not create friction through binding.
The other is whether 'box standard' rules permit the addition of washers at all. I think most do permit this though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
well.. sod that..

got a new gear, then order a drill blank 2 slot it bearings AND sipa 10 wheels,
lobbed them on and came a respectable 10th place in the porsche challenge, less than a second away from 7th!! ARGH! *air goes purpuly colour*

Rob.
 

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It was actually my car that Mooster and I ran at the Wrexham 4 hours. The car had never been raced beforeand had done maybe half an hours practice. the motor and bearings were glued in and the crown wheel was lubricated with Tamiya acrylic grease. It lasted 45 minutes into the race when it suddenly became very noisy so we stopped and put on the back up car which had a Slot-It 28 tooth crown wheel and ran with no poroblems. I still have the worn out gear and there is no sideways play in the brass channel or apparent wear. I have just looked at my brand new fly evo 2 Saleen and again there is virtually no sideways play.
 

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It was actually my car that Mooster and I ran at the Wrexham 4 hours. The car had never been raced beforeand had done maybe half an hours practice. the motor and bearings were glued in and the crown wheel was lubricated with Tamiya acrylic grease. It lasted 45 minutes into the race when it suddenly became very noisy so we stopped and put on the back up car which had a Slot-It 28 tooth crown wheel and ran with no problems.
I still have the worn out gear and there is no sideways play in the brass channel or apparent wear. I have just looked at my brand new fly evo 2 Saleen and again there is virtually no sideways play. The mesh between the motor pinion and the crown wheel is reasonable but not perfect.
These cars come with a 10 tooth motor pinion as standard, I have also run on with an NC5 and a 9 tooth Ninco pinion and the results were similar, after about an hours racing the crown whell suddenly got noisy and inspection showed a couple of missing teeth. This time it was lubricated with light oil.
I think the problem is too soft a material coupled with a less than perfect mesh.
I raced with a Ninco 27 tooth crownwheel on the standard 10 tooth motor pinion at Wolverhampton and had no problems.
 

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"I think the problem is too soft a material coupled with a less than perfect mesh.
I raced with a Ninco 27 tooth crownwheel on the standard 10 tooth motor pinion at Wolverhampton and had no problems."

Can't argue with that. You guys should still be shimming the rear end anyway.
 

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Just thought I'd add a 'me too' to Roly and t'other Rob's findings re: the Fly Racer 27t crownwheel. After approximately an hour and a half to two hours TOTAL running time (ie it can be all in one go, or spread out over the course of a month or so), the gear 'goes noisy' and under inspection, the tops of 3 or more teeth have been sheared off the crownwheel... This behaviour has not arisen with an otherwise identically prepped car, apart from being fitted with a slot.it crown and pinion.

Observations? The gear mesh is imperfect on the Fly racer parts as new, and becomes worse when the parts are run in. The material that the gear teeth on the crownwheel are made of seems to have an accelerated failure rate compared to other makes, with no real indication of it's imminent failure. Visual inspection immediately prior to failure shows no undue wear.

Indeed this quirk may have cost me a higher placed finish in the Wolves round of the Porsche Open. A feature of the Wolves circuit is that your car is largely inaudible to you for a fair part of the circuit, and you can only really cast an ear over it as it flys past the driver's position.... The first six laps were mechanically and sonically good.... Lap seven.... grrzzzttt'd past me.... That didn't sound good!!! Luckily the remaining 24 teeth on the crown held up till the end of the race
Unfortunately I was left unable to 'push' to raise my race finishing position


Live and learn huh?


-Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well there wasnt any play side to side in mine either..

and welcome Roly!! wondered how long it would take....


mine ran soudn with the slot it axle kit so hehho!

Rob.

p.s 3.9's just making excuses now
and Roly.. just pipped me to the line grr!
 

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It kind of looks like a reasonably firm conclusion has been reached here.
If this is a common occurrence, and evidence is building to suggest that it may be, perhaps it should be brought to Fly's attention, politely but firmly?
Does anyone think that what looks more and more like a poorly designed crown wheel, possibly made from inferior plastic should be meekly accepted as 'normal'?
I don't.
 

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hi gents, it sounds like you have got the same probs as hundreds of other people, the back end of the car has never been any good, if you are going to race it you will have to scap the compleat rear axle asembly, if you get 1 nights racing out of it you have done well. the problen lies with the more powerfull motor and crownwheel,the pinion pushes the crown wheel awayfrom it thus putting wear on the grubscew side of the self align groove, as this gets worse the gears mesh less then strip, if you keep the standard axle , put 2 axle bearings and a .008-.010 tho washer to space them forming a thrust bearing, or change to slot-it bits {brass type} with plenty of oil, remove the back black panel then you can oil the bearings and gears without taking off the body, hope this helps cheers mac p
 
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