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· Registered
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,
Just recently bought the NSR Ford Mk II GT40 and was wondering if anyone would provide some tuning advise.
I have removed the magnet, put a bit of lead weight, put a new 25k slot it motor in, replacing the 20k nsr one.
I have sanded the tires and have glued in the pod.
Thanks in advance,

· Greg Gaub
17,983 Posts
Nate. Who told you to do those things?
I've found NSR cars to need little to no "tuning" right out of the box. At MOST I play with the tightness of the pod and/or body screws to get the amount of float I want.
Most NSR tires don't sand well without the proper method (a Hudy type truing machine).
Most NSR cars don't need any extra weight.
Upping the motor is up to you, of course, but I've found their stock motors to be plenty fast on anything but 100' straightaways.
I sure the heck would never glue the pod. At most, I might run a bead of glue along the motor to hold it to the pod, but I've never felt the need for that, either.

Does this NSR not run as well as others you've driven?

· Premium Member
247 Posts
Nsr cars are alway top of my list but in my experience you can always get them to go quicker with a little bit of tinkering. I run on a wood track with lots of grip and would always do the following to any NSR (or other) car.
Glue motor and and axle bearings in with good quality high viscosity super glue which can always be "unglued" with a hot soldering iron or boiling water if needed. Do not waste your time with hot glue - motors get hot and it melts!
Run motor in at a low voltage - there are loads of threads on this forum by people with far more knowledge tham me, so check them out.
First glue the tyres on the inside and outside of the rims and then true on a tyre truer if possible - you will need a VERY steady hand to true them without one.
Some side winder NSR Cars work better with a LITTLE weight in the nose it depends on the level of grip, your controller, driving style, and the track to name but a few parameters.
Never glue the motor pod into the chassis it is there for a reason on high grip tracks you may end up with all three screws tight, if the car is still hopping under acelaration stiffen the pod (only) or replace it with a stiffer varient. On bumpy tracks loosen the pod and think about fitting suspension always keep the front screw tight. Above all be prepared to experiment change one thing at a time and do some laps - lots of laps get your monies worth out of it - LOL
If the car persists in popping out of the slot under acelaration try fitting a screw fix wood guide.
Hope some of the above helps
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