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If it is an issue just paint it black.

The new guide improves the handling of the cars when cornering and so if the shroud is a necessary by-product of the use of the new guide then so be it.

The TVR has a flat chassis pan so it was not needed but for cars with a moulded curved chassis pan then clearly it will be required.

The spoiler on the previous Vettes did a job of hiding the guide but the new street Vette does not have this item of bodywork.

For classic curvacious cars what other option is there?


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QUOTE Just what is this new performance-enhancing wonder guide that Scaley has developed?

It does make a big difference and allows cars to slide much better around corners whilst maintaining power to the motor. In fact the new Scalextric guide system just about leads the market in this area right now.

It has been designed with club racers in mind however the home racer benefits as an aside. If Scalextric were to insist that magnets were never to be removed from their cars and the body and chassis were superglued/heat welded together to make it impossible to remove the magnets then a new guide would not have been required. However, with magnetless racing becoming more popular then well done to Scalextric for considering this improvement.
(in fact I suspect Adrian Norman had a say in the matter).

Why don't you try it speedyweenie?


Moped

PS looking at my collection the car with the most pronounced guide at the front is the Carrera 1:24 scale E-type, which again is a car with a very curvacious body. When its on the track I simply do not think twice about it however and look at the car not the guide under. Generally there are hardly any cars of modern outline that suffer from an exposed guide as they all have flat ground hugging bottoms or spoilers at the front to hide the blade. The compromise is going to be with older classic cars with the more flowing sexy bodywork.
 

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A Hornby rep said club feedback initiated the research for the guide. You were present when the rep made the comment Astro!


The rotation angle is greater and this allows cars to slide wider without hitting the guide stop. Formerly club racers would remove the stop on the old guide by cutting it but then you would loose power to the motor if you overcooked the slide angle. The new guide allows much smoother cornering without magnets or with lightweight magnets and with constant power to the motor.

QUOTE I race Scaley cars on wood tracks all the time

That might explain it speedweenie. You are racing on a circuit with very large radius curves and probably never hit the stop on the old guide. If you were racing on plexy track with its small radius curves and lots of swing action then you would appreciate the difference.


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Until you give the new guide serious welly you are never going to discover how much better it is.

And what has the comment (true or otherwise) about enduro racing to do with anything? Were not Scalextric cars used in an enduro 24 hour event in Scandanavia recently which included night racing in the dark with just the Scalextric headlights to "guide" you? (Integrale shot down in flames....)

The guide housings are a neat solution to the often talked about problem of guide post socket breakages as well as tidying up what is otherwise a messy part of the chassis. They should be welcomed by club racers, especially those who race in enduro events referenced above.


Moped

PS and I cannot take anybody seriously who says that a Fly guide or an SCX guide is better than a Scaley guide. Sorry but that is the best joke I have heard all night!
 

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The guide stops do not provide enough turn angle. You do loose power continuity with the SCX guide on corners. The copper braids supplied are a nightmare as they clog up with dirt very easily and braid changing is hard work. The spring in the SCX guide forces the guide away from the copper contact strips on uneven track. I could go on but its time for bed.

See you in the morning.

Ciow.

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