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I am taking mine out soon for its first race! Its the racing version with no mags and the pivot chassis.

Now due to work am going to have no time at all to test different set-ups before my 1st race. So far I have done the norm, true tyres, oil up etc. My main question is, is it worth adding any weight?? I thought about putting to small strips of blue tac along the side of the mota with the heavy part at the front?? I know in other non mag races u have to use a ton of weight but this car came without mags out the box?? Anyone has a chance to have a play with these???

Thanks
 

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Jan Groosmuller
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how about this Lola ??

added traction magnet in front of the motor (pulls max 60 grams on our scales),
added 2 x 5 grams of lead before the rear wheels and changed the crown for a Slot.It 28 teeth
built in Slot.It light set, user 4 1,8 mm rears instead of the original 2... ripped the rear part off the body et viola, a short version


did something dark to the front wheels, now independently rotating on a solid axle


trued the tyres of course, we use lamp oil for softening the rubber (works like a charm, just apply some on a lint-free cloth and let the wheels spin until they start to smoke


No really, is helps!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
QUOTE (Race-Jan @ 17 Nov 2004, 20:19)how about this Lola ??

added traction magnet in front of the motor (pulls max 60 grams on our scales),
added 2 x 5 grams of lead before the rear wheels and changed the crown for a Slot.It 28 teeth
built in Slot.It light set, user 4 1,8 mm rears instead of the original 2... ripped the rear part off the body et viola, a short version

No really, is helps!!!!
did something dark to the front wheels, now independently rotating on a solid axle


trued the tyres of course, we use lamp oil for softening the rubber (works like a charm, just apply some on a lint-free cloth and let the wheels spin until they start to smoke


<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi mate

Thanks for the info but I cant use magnets in the class I run in, so any tips on adding weight (if it needs it) would be great.

Thanks
James
 

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Hi James.
I think the whole point of these cars is how well they run with no added weight at all. Most clubs I've been to here don't allow extra weight and I'm a great fan of the Racing Lola.
I've run three of them in the LGT championship this year and, at times, the cars have been dynamite. It's the driver that's been average. ;>(
One has an NC5, one an NC6 and one a red Scaleauto motor. Choice is down to track power supply and layout. Slot.it running gear and, usually, their P3 tyres on the back.
Adding ballast will slow your acceleration and braking which are usually the places where overtaking opportunities arise.
Good luck,
Lowrider.
 

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Ric Woods
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Lowrider is absolutely right. Don't bother with any extra weight. You might want to change the rear axle, gear and wheels to Slot.it, which will allow you a nice choice of ratios and tyres to suit the track you are racing on, but other than that, they are very quick as they come.

Mooster
 

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Hi

Locally, they run 2 classes, "Stock" and "Modified". Your rules may vary.

I have had good success in both classes with 2 different Fly Lola B98s.

I painted my car in '66 surtees Can Am colors, bright red with white "arrow".

The stock car....I first trued the WHEELS and glued them on. Then glued and trued the tires(locally we are allowed silicone). Tracks being irregular, I carefully filed the front axle holes allowing the axle to move UP a little. About .005. And mine runs best with about 5gms of lead just behind the guide. Oh, and check when you put it together, I have seen about 20 of these cars running and often, poor fly quality control, the tires are rubbing somewhere. Oh, and I glued down the motor(it will pop out) and rear axle bushings.

In the "modified" class... Without magnets, I don't belive the chassis is stiff enough for the extra power. With a slot it motor, the car was undriveable! What fixed the problem and made the car interesting was to run two pieces of .032 inch pianowire from rear axle TO THE GUIDE MOUNT. I also, cut a spacer that tightly fits on top of the guide, glued to the guide to remove wobble. AND with the extra power, I upped the front weight to about 10gms, and put 4gms at each rear corner.

Your milage may vary.

Fate
 

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Jan Groosmuller
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here some pics of my car, we are allowed the magnet (though restricted)

http://groups.msn.com/hobbyfoto/slotracepr...oto&PhotoID=582

http://groups.msn.com/hobbyfoto/slotracepr...oto&PhotoID=583

check out the slot it gear on the fly axle


http://groups.msn.com/hobbyfoto/slotracepr...oto&PhotoID=584

http://groups.msn.com/hobbyfoto/slotracepr...oto&PhotoID=585

minimum weight of the body has to be 25 grams, so I had to add lead there... chassis runs fine with no lead at all, rear tyres heve been changed for wider and grippier slot.it P2..

front tyres have been hardened, wheels independant...
 

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Thanks for your help guys

I did manage to get a 5 min pratice with the car yesterday before the race!

I found with no weight the front end was bouncing out our club track (scalextric classic) So I managed to get some blue tac in just before the race started (both sides of motor most at the front) I still found the car bounced a bit but felt allot more stuck down with no speed loss! The rear tyres felt like they didnt have enough grip!

So my next question is.......

I would like to change to alloy wheel tyres new axcles etc etc etc (Spirit lola style)

We cant use sponge tyres at our club but I have seen people rub lighter fluid into there tyres???


Could maybe someone point out all the parts I would need from the get slotted site?

I cant add magnets but will have a play with weight once I have some better wheels and tyres.

Thanks
 

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Ric Woods
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Did you trim the bottom of the guide before you raced? The Fly guide as it comes can be a little too deep for Classic track, and could cause some of the bouncing you describe.

I race on Classic track at home, and I have found the best 'conventional' tyres to be Slot.it P1s - nearly as good as Ortmanns, which are more difficult to find and which some clubs don't like people using. If you can't get what you need from Getslotted, Pendle Slot Racing usually have all the Slot.it parts you'll need in stock.

I usually rub a little WD40 or 3-in-1 oil into the tyres to make them extra grippy. 'Taping' the tyres (i.e. rolling them over the sticky side of some tape) is also a good idea, to get rid of little bits of rubber and dust.

Good luck!

Mooster
 

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QUOTE (Linso @ 19 Nov 2004, 13:25)I would like to change to alloy wheel tyres new axcles etc etc etc (Spirit lola style)
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

?? Don't all the Fly race versions come with alloy wheels? My Saleen and 911 Evo did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the reply guys

Should I stick with standard size wheels on the back? 15 x 8? or can or should I go a little wider and bigger to get more rubber on the ground? 17 x 10? Will these foul the body as it tilts?

Also a suggestion on tyres would be good for what ever size of wheel above.

Like I say above we race on scalextric classic.

Thanks
James
 

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Hi James.
The larger wheels will fit fine. Body rub has never been a problem for me with these cars.
I've never rated the tyres that come with these cars very highly, plus the wheels and contrate gear that are standard are way too heavy.
The best all-round tyre that I've found for most surfaces is the Slot.it P3 compound. Glue and true and give them a try.
Regards,
Lowrider.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
QUOTE (lowrider @ 20 Nov 2004, 20:33)Hi James.
The larger wheels will fit fine. Body rub has never been a problem for me with these cars.
I've never rated the tyres that come with these cars very highly, plus the wheels and contrate gear that are standard are way too heavy.
The best all-round tyre that I've found for most surfaces is the Slot.it P3 compound. Glue and true and give them a try.
Regards,
Lowrider.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi Lowrider

Thanks for your help, so 15 x 8 front and larger 17 x 10 back is the way to go.

Any idea what tyre sizes I need for the front and back? For the P3 I can see

Racing Tyres 'P3' Compound 20x11
Racing Tyres 'P3' Compound 19x10
 

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Yes, just what my mate Macca said.
The fronts are pretty much just along for the ride so my first choice would be Pink Kar or Hobby Slot low profile front tyres. Second choice would be Slot.it Zero Grips.
Mooster was right in saying that the guide may need a little shaving on the bottom edge to run cleanly in Scalextric Classic track. The trick is to do the absolute minimum cutting here. Do it a tiny bit at a time until the front end runs smoothly enough to be under control.
Good luck again,
Lowrider.
 

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Ric Woods
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Hi, me again. What the others say about the P3 tyres is absolutely right, it's the best all-rounder, but if you can afford it, do try some P1s as well. They're faster than P3s on my Classic track, and have a low wear rate as well - Classic does tend to shred the soft P3s a bit. I don't know why P1s are faster, but they just are! Clean them with a little WD40 from time to time and they are great.

Mooster
 

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That's true.
In competitive club racing tyre wear is not an issue. Whatever gets worn out gets replaced pdq.
The great advantage of set screw wheels is that trying different tyre compounds is a snap.
One thing I did think of earlier, James, is that you might want to change the stock 10 tooth pinion gear for a standard 9 tooth one. This will keep the motor revs in the torque band on all circuits except the longest ones.
Regards,
Lowrider.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi guys thanks for your help,

I now have some bigger alloy wheels on the back and a low ration gear set,

Is it worth getting silicon tyres over the P1'S??

If so which type.

Thanks
 

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Ric Woods
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I never had particularly good results with them on my Classic track. They were ok, but nothing brilliant, and they tend to be quite fragile, so that I had a few tyres which blew themselves to bits for no obvious reason. If it were me, I'd stick with the Slot.it P1s / P3s.

Mooster
 
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