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Can this APP be used to re-program the ARC controllers back to Scalextric mode??
 

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Greg Gaub
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Hi. My track is 27m long. Does it mean I cant use it?
As long as you can complete a lap within 16 seconds, it should work. Ideally, you're not having to race hard to get that lap time, but will within the limits of your car's ability to stay above the rails.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
As long as you can complete a lap within 16 seconds, it should work. Ideally, you're not having to race hard to get that lap time, but will within the limits of your car's ability to stay above the rails.
Correct. For now, we only use one magnet at the beginning of the track, so the longer it gets, the greater the time skew becomes if you get sideways or spin the wheel. Therefore, it is imperative to drive conservatively.

We have written firmware to detect both magnet poles so that one or more magnets may be used to detect the position of the car - but we have other priorities at the moment so for now the ATC must do with one magnet.
 

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Ok, then 25m shouldnt be a problem because we are doing it in 7 seconds easy.
I am a litle bit confused about my in car chips. I think its about 3 years since I bought them, so I think its 201 b1.
What I have understod I need 201 b2 to go autonomous or the newest C chip.
If the b1 and b2 chip looks the same, how do I know which one I have?
 

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So to run a digital ghost car at variable speeds on an analog track; you just need an Arc Pro Controller, Oxigen Chipped Car, Magnet under track, and jump one lane so its always powered (Instructions). That's great!

Correct. For now, we only use one magnet at the beginning of the track, so the longer it gets, the greater the time skew becomes if you get sideways or spin the wheel. Therefore, it is imperative to drive conservatively.

We have written firmware to detect both magnet poles so that one or more magnets may be used to detect the position of the car - but we have other priorities at the moment so for now the ATC must do with one magnet.
Looking forward to a ATC firmware update to detect 2 magnets! We have a long analog track, so another position sensor would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
1. the manual at the link was updated. I choose to do this rather than changing to a different link, as the document is linked by the QR codes on our IC' packaging, too.

2. fixed now. I missed the second instance of 'brake'. Thanks!
 

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Thanks. I don't have a dongle but the Arc Pro controller LC button works
smile.png
I got the Autonomous car working using my C1 chip car and my ARC Pro controller. The car is now driving on its own!

However, how can I clear my original lap and record a new lap? I've spent hours trying everything I can think of with no success, including reloading the firmware to the C1 chip and the controller.
 

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Greg Gaub
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It's been a while, and without re-reading old posts, I wonder if you can use the magnet trick? Place a magnet just below the hall sensor of the car so that it stope running around, in order to reprogram it? You say you've reflashed the firmware, so I'm guessing that's not the issue, but that it won't let you start a new recording sequence for some reason?
 

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I have just installed a C-chip in to a car.
Now I want to download a firmware to have it autonomous.
I have both an IPhone and a Samsung mobile phone.
I have tried both with no success.
The Iphone can register the car but no more.
The Samsung dont even manage that.
What can be wrong?
 

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Greg Gaub
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If you've registered the chip/car using the iphone, does it appear in your list of devices on the Samsung?

If not, be sure you're signing in using the same email address as you did on the iphone.

If so, what happens when you tap info? All the same info should appear as post-registration on the iphone.

On the Samsung, what happens after you tap connect, ensuring that the car is in App mode?

If you're ever stuck, you can always force the chip into DFU mode by placing a magnet on the hall sensor. The LED on the chip will flash and turn off. If that doesn't happen, when the chip has power from the track, turn the magnet around and try again. Once in DFU mode, you can use the Nordic app to install the ATC firmware.
 

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First of all. I have a simcard in the iPhone and not in the Samsung, but both
is connected to internet via wifi. I dont know if this thing whith the simcard matters.
No, no car/chip appears in the Samsung. The display says device not found.
As I understood the Nordic app is only used for Iphone?
 

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Greg Gaub
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Sim card should not have any impact on things.

You need internet, so connect to wifi, but otherwise, it's all local.

Nordic app was the only option prior to the slot.it app. It still works fine on Android, and can be helpful when the chip is not connecting with the app.

If the body is on the car, take it off.

Put a magnet right on the hall sensor.

Put the car on the track with power.

The LED should flash once and then turn off. If it does not do that, turn the magnet over and try again.

The chip is now in DFU mode.

Use the Nordic app to load whatever firmware you want. I would recommend the latest non ATC firmware, so that it will work properly with the app. There are still plenty of Type-C chips on the market with pre-app firmware and they won't connect with the app. Once the new firmware is installed via forced DFU mode and the Nordic app, you can register it with the slot.it app and install firmware (such as the ATC) on your Android phone using the slot.it app. Otherwise, use the DFU trick above.
 

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Ok. Lets focus on my Samsung Android.
What concerns e-mail. No I dont have the same mail on this phone.
I have the right Slotit app on it and receive the code on my computer.
I put in the code and push add and after that search.
Then I receive device not found.
I have tried the magnet trick by pushing the car over s/f line.
First it jumped and after next try it didnt jump. Still the car can be run by a controller.
Everytime when I put the car on track the chip has a stable red light that goes over to
flashing and then goes off.
Do I realy need to download the Nordic app?
 
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