SlotForum banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've just been told about this site at my local slot car club (Wolverhampton) and I'm after some help and advice please. I recently bought two Autoworld HO NASCAR 2005 Chevy Le Mans cars from the USA and they're not working properly. What happened when I first got them was that they would run Ok at first but then the electric motors would gradually slow down and then pack up. I noticed also that the chassis got very, very hot (too hot to touch). After allowing the cars to cool, they would run for a while again but with the same problems. One of the motors now refuses to run at all. I'm running them on Tomy track with a Tomy 16V DC/350mA power supply. I have no trouble with my other HO cars (obtained in the UK) which have run fine for years.

I can't think it would be a electricity supply problem as the mains voltage is being converted to DC just as it would in the USA, I don't know whether differing current supply would be a problem, and if it was surely the cars wouldn't run at all would they?. I know it's not a drive train problem either because if I remove the rear axle and let the motors run freely, they still eventually pack up as before.

Can anyone help at all please? I notice that some members have bought Autoworld Models. I have emailed the supplier but not had the courtesy of a reply yet.


Thanks (IN HOPE!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Julian,

That's a great help and thanks too for info on my nearest HO club. I've checked and my cars are the Series 3 with the latest Autoworld inline chassis.

By lubricating everything, do you mean the motor drive shaft (being careful to keep oil off the commutator etc) and what oil/grease would you recommend? I've already lubricated the pinion/rear axle sprocket drive gear with vaseline. The axles seem fine. If it's the electric motor drive shaft that's the culprit where is it best to lubricate it (ie at which end of the motor) and are there any other specific lubrication items I should deal with?

Very grateful for your help in this
 

· Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Woodcote,

Thanks very much for your help and info. I've heard LifeLike are better but I want to persevere for now with these as I really want to find out what the problem is, I just don't like to be beaten!

I actually got the cars via a 3rd party - Greg Braun of HO Slot Racing in USA - who runs what looks like a very comprehensive HO racing site. Another item he sent me was fine (a Tomy/Tyco track adapter) which I found was unobtainable here (at least not on Ebay/Amazon) but that was b4 I discovered the current HO sites, so I might have had more luck there.

What would you recommend for lubrication? Would 3 in 1 be ok, or WD-40?

Regards
 

· Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Montoya,

Thanks so much for your interest and help. I'm so impressed and grateful for the help and advice I've received from everyone here. I only visited my club for the 2nd time today (as a visitor) and their interest is solely 1/32 scale (they have two of these tracks but no HO tracks) but I did find a couple of members who knew a bit about HO. One of them said he had been runner-up in the HO nationals a few years ago! He said he got out at that time because he felt the sport was becoming too "corporate". Also he gave me a name to avoid in the HO world (which I won't repeat!). Another member told me about SlotForum and that there was an HO section.

I really got back into slot racing after reading "Racing and Collecting Slot Cars" by Robert Schleicher, which I found a good read and mine of information, though largely devoted to 1/32, he does cover HO as well. The book was published in 2001 and I don't know if there's any updates available. Again the author is American and the book was originally published in the USA where HO racing is much bigger than here. I found the history of slot racing in his book very interesting. It started (in the USA anyway) with HO scale motor cars which were used to make HO model railroad sets more realistic. It was when someone discovered you could race these little cars that HO racing was borne and why it was initially called "Model Motoring" by Aurora when they kicked off the sport in 1963 with their Thunderjet chassis. It seems that here in the UK our first exposure was to Scalextric 1/32 scale and that what's prevalent to this day. It seems ironic to me that HO racing is so much more suited to English homes (that are probably, on average half the size of American homes) yet the sport is much more popular in the USA! Also there are advantages over 1/32 - you can fit so much more of a circuit in your average English lounge/dining room in HO scale than you can in 1/32, the cars absolutely zip round at scale speeds much higher than 1/32, around 300mph and the cars are much less expensive than 1/32...... I could go on!

Anyway thanks again - hope I haven't bored you
 

· Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Hi Woodcote,

Thanks so much for this. I've used a bit of 3 in 1 already (albeit a very small amount on the end of a toothpick) to lubricate the bearings but the needle point applicator and oil you suggesst sounds great and I'll get some of that.

I checked all the bearings, axles, gear mesh body clearance and all seems fine. I think I've sorted the problem
. The brushes weren't contacting the commutator properly and there was a lot of arcing when the motor ran. By adjusting up the bushes (I assume there are brush springs in the housings to automatically take up brush wear?), the engine revs shot up and when I run the cars now there's no power fall off and they don't get hot. I've taken the traction magnets off as well. There's still a bit of arcing when the motors run. I'm not sure how much you need to adjust the brushes - do you need to snug them in until there's no arcing or as long as they're running ok leave them to bed in naturally under brush spring tension?

Another small problem was the drive pinion which had a very inadequate loose fit on the motor drive shaft which caused gear meshing problems and eventually caused it to dislodge from the drive shaft. This was cured with a bit of superglue. I would have to agree with you that quality control doesn't appear to be high on AutoWorld's list. In future I think I'll take your advice and buy LifeLike.

Anyway, thanks again for all your help. Derby HO Club looks the biz, I'll have to get myself along there soon and I'm sure I'll have fun!


GrayHoHoHo

PS Thanks again to everyone else as well - Julian and Montoya
 

· Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi Montoya,

Yes thanks cars run fine now! One of them has already worn down the bushes so I'll have to readjust. Hope I didn't set them too tight/loose
I use the 9v battery setup recommended by Woodcote

Hi Woodcote.

Cars are funning fine now, and thanks very much for the the HO Zone info. I'll try and get myself along there and hefully be able to thank you in person!
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top