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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I tried reading through many of the threads on here over the last few weeks.
I see Pros and Cons on both chassis.
I do not intend to race anywhere (can't even find if there is a Track or Club in Boise Idaho area just to go see).

Since I got my stuff back out I have been putting a lot of cars and chassis back together and up an running.
Probably like many back into this I have more bodies than chassis.
I have looked at SlotsnStuff and they have AW chassis for 12.99 Tjet and 11.99 AFX.
My question is if I just want to get some runners should I go with the AW or Dash?
Or is there another chassis that is inexpensive for these days?
These chassis will go with original Tjet bodies and AFX bodies.
(I do not want to have to keep swapping bodies)

Also I have 3 Tjet bottom chassis that each have 1 broken Brush spring (front or back).
Is there any place you can get new part for these springs and rivets?
They are all Solid rivets at this point.

I will try to learn more about all these things as I go.
Sorry if these questions are very basis or dumb in a way.

Thank you
 

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Rich Dumas
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I am not sure what you mean by AFX. Aurora came out with the A/FX cars in 1971, those were replaced by the AFX Magnatraction cars in 1974. Later inline G Plus cars appeared. After Aurora folded Tomy bought the AFX trademark, after Tomy lost interest in slot cars the AFX trademark is now being used by Racemasters. The current cars are called Mega G+. Johnny Lightning came out with a version of the Aurora Tuff Ones cars and later with a clone of the Aurora Magnatraction car called the X-Traction. Eventually Johnny Lightning mutated into Auto World and both types of cars had small neodymium traction magnets added, those are the Ultra versions.
The T-Dash is a clone of the original Aurora Thunderjet, so is the Model Motoring Thunder Plus and the WizzJet. I believe that the parts from those and Aurora T-Jet types will interchange. Probably most of the JL/AW Thunderjet parts will interchange as well. Aurora Magnatraction and JL/AW X-Traction parts will interchange.
Back in the day Aurora sold replacement parts in blister packages, for the most part those are long gone. When Aurora packed it in the still had a large number of T-Jet rolling chassis left in their warehouse, REH bought most of those and sold them to dealers until a few years ago. Some dealers took the rolling chassis apart to sell the component parts, but most of those are gone now as well. Whatever REH had left went to Slot Car Central.
There are all sorts of aftermarket and replica parts available for T-Jets. JAG Hobbies would be one place to look. Wizzard sells replacement T-Jet brush springs and rivets. In the past just the Aurora T-Jet base chassis was available, so it might not be worth replacing the brush springs, but now those are difficult to find.
The bodies with screw posts made for the T-Jet type chassis should all interchange, in some cases you might need to do a little trimming. Besides the original Aurora and JL/AW bodies there are also Model Motoring and Dash bodies. Snap-on bodies that fit the original Aurora A/FX and Magnatraction cars also fit the JL/AW X-Traction cars. Dash made some bodies for A/FX cars as well.
As far as the original A/FX cars go I have not seen rolling chassis for quite some time, but you should be able to find bare base chassis for those.
The JL/AW and Dash cars can be made to run well, it sometimes takes a little fiddling around however. I have written tuning articles for both types.
Another car to consider is the TFX from One Stop Slot Shop. Those cars are an updated version of the T-Jet, but not an exact clone. The TFX cars run great right out of the box and will take T-Jet bodies.
 

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Hi BoiseBlade.
So far my experience with the AW Xtraction (AF/X clone) chassis has been really hit or miss. Some have been fair runners out of the box and a few, total stinkers. All of them have become at least acceptable drivers with some time and tuning that I learned from the articles written by RichD and several other guys around here. (Thanks Rich!)

Unfortunately, inexpensive and slot cars don't seem to go hand in hand these days. I have picked up some very nice and easily tuned up original AF/X non-magnatraction chassis from Slot Car Central recently, but prices are premium.

Have fun!

-Steve
 

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AW wheelbase is slighty longer than the original Aurora T-jet wheelbase. Dash is a clone of the original Aurora wheelbase. That should make the choice a bit easier.
 

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i like the dash tjet style chassis better than AW ones. they are $16.50 right now and you can buy empty chassis for around $4 if they are in stock
some of the chassis he has on sale now have traction magnets and some don't and they come in several colors now.
dash chassis are made more like aurora tjet chassis. my self i like them , i build custom slot cars with resin or modified from junk tjet bodys .
i am not a racer in any way but i have a 8x8 L shaped track that follows 2 walls in my hobby room. i have some AW tjet style chassis too but i don't like them as much as the dash chassis.
im 65 now and i have several hundred ho slot cars. Tire Automotive parking light Wheel Land vehicle Car
Car Automotive parking light Tire Land vehicle Vehicle
Car Wheel Tire Motor vehicle Hood
Wheel Window Tire Vehicle Automotive tire

and around 20 real cars and trucks in my collection. have fun whatever you do life goes by too quick.
sitting on your but won't get your projects done.
 

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If you are simply looking to buy chassis, only buy Dash or TFX imho. Only buy AW if you desire the body. That being said, I do find AW chassis fun to monkey with and drive but they are not as smooth as Dash or TFX.
 

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"AW wheelbase is slighty longer than the original Aurora T-jet wheelbase. "--KRZ

AW has many cool body styles. But does Ken's statement indicate that any other chassis will be too short under an AW body?
 

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Rich Dumas
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I have used Aurora bodies on AW chassis and AW bodies on Aurora chassis, but my cars are all in Fray/T-Jet SS trim with a wide track and small diameter tires, so the wheelbase is not critical. I measured the long wheelbase of an Aurora chassis at 1.472 inches VS 1.500 inches for an AW chassis.
 

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Wheel base and AW? LMAO! Follow the new release exposes at Speed Inc, and good macro photography will show that, regardless of what the chassis wheel base is, AW has and continues to practice horse shoes and hand grenades accuracy, with respect to the alignment of the chassis axle center as it relates to the body fender arch center.

A classic example being their '41 Willys Gasser clone. All four wheel arches are Marty Feldman, and havent been corrected in near 2 decades. As you lower a body, or bring the tire profile towards the arch, and or both; clearance issues become an immediate problem.

Their 4X4 Daytona is a sight to behold as well.

Plainly, they are all over the place. Given the long standing state of affairs, body fitment is strictly case by case when you mix and match a given chassis wheel base, and a body with "whatever" fender arch centers.

So,

Some fit better than others within brand or mixed and matched; and some are pretty gruesome either way you slice it.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks all for the information.
Most of my original Tjet Bodies are in uncut wheel well condition.
I actually only have 2 that I cut when I was a kid, A green Vet and one of the Indy style cars.
I would actually like to keep all the others in uncut condition, they just look better to me.
The 3 Original AFX bodies I have '71-'73 I just need running chassis.
I really do not need Bodies though so just looking for chassis.

I think I will go with the DASH chassis. I wish they had black ones though.
I might just wait a bit.

Any idea on this?
3 Tjet bottom chassis that each have 1 broken Brush spring (front or back).
Is there any place you can get new part for these springs and rivets?
They are all Solid rivets at this point.


Thanks Again.
This has been real fun getting back into it.
(Ok, maybe not for my Wife :confused:)
But after 40+ years what can she expect..........
 

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B-b-but the wheelbase is still longer than the body.

I believe I would be wrapping #360 grit around the ol' pencil to balance out those wheelwells, combined with any easy lowering through post trimming.

MM's point remains: Wheelbase can be an issue. Seems like a simple thing, given that there are Aurora chassis and bodies available to use as a template....🤔

An alternative:

TR-3 Wheelbase: 1.317" (33.5 mm) / 1.445" (36.7 mm) --I am unsure if these are "Aurora accurate" or not, but the measurements are pretty precise.

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Nice Thanks All
Ken, Thanks for the Wizard Link. Since I have the top plates that ohmed out good I will get 2 or 3 sets.

Is there an Issue with assembling the wheels to Dash Chassis?
 

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Looks good on paper. Ya might be best off just replacing the tubs.

Replacement of the T-jet lever springs is a fairly delicate procedure, that requires a small drill press, and a setting tool for the eyelets. You can find both open or closed rivet, but the closed arent an exact match.

The Wizzard replacement spring/kits didnt blow me away. The samples I purchased were whimpy looking. They only supply open rivets. I shelved the idea and began sorting my old bits for the long winter days.

Ordinarily, one collects enough old toasted chassis which have thrown a rod, that you wind up with some usable springs, with the hope that you can swap them into suitable tubs. Drilling the rivet out, and extracting the spring without killing the chassis, spring, or hanger plate might seem automatic. A most exacting endevour requiring skill, and above all PATIENCE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Looks good on paper. Ya might be best off just replacing the tubs.

Replacement of the T-jet lever springs is a fairly delicate procedure, that requires a small drill press, and a setting tool for the eyelets. You can find both open or closed rivet, but the closed arent an exact match.

The Wizzard replacement spring/kits didnt blow me away. The samples I purchased were whimpy looking. They only supply open rivets. I shelved the idea and began sorting my old bits for the long winter days.

Ordinarily, one collects enough old toasted chassis which have thrown a rod, that you wind up with some usable springs, with the hope that you can swap them into suitable tubs. Drilling the rivet out, and extracting the spring without killing the chassis, spring, or hanger plate might seem automatic. A most exacting endevour requiring skill, and above all PATIENCE.
Thanks for the heads up.
I do have 2 drill presses on large floor standing and one small bench top.
I do a lot of wood working and working on real cars. so plenty of punches and taps and stuff.

But you may be right. I asked the people at Dash in their chassis tubs will fit old Aurora top plates.
Waiting for an answer. I may just buy their tubs. I may make 2 old Aurora ones into one. I think some of the extremely small rivets I have will work. We will see.

Many Thanks
 

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Thanks all for the information.
Most of my original Tjet Bodies are in uncut wheel well condition.
I actually only have 2 that I cut when I was a kid, A green Vet and one of the Indy style cars.
I would actually like to keep all the others in uncut condition, they just look better to me.
The 3 Original AFX bodies I have '71-'73 I just need running chassis.
I really do not need Bodies though so just looking for chassis.

I think I will go with the DASH chassis. I wish they had black ones though.
I might just wait a bit.

Any idea on this?
3 Tjet bottom chassis that each have 1 broken Brush spring (front or back).
Is there any place you can get new part for these springs and rivets?
They are all Solid rivets at this point.


Thanks Again.
This has been real fun getting back into it.
(Ok, maybe not for my Wife :confused:)
But after 40+ years what can she expect..........
dash used to sell the brush springs and rivets in sets to repair 5 chassis but i don't see them listed right now.
i buy a bunch of stuff from Dan and he has been quick on the shipping of late.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
dash used to sell the brush springs and rivets in sets to repair 5 chassis but i don't see them listed right now.
i buy a bunch of stuff from Dan and he has been quick on the shipping of late.
Thanks

Dan has replied twice today to me. He is great with communication.
Once he gets some black Chassis in U will make an order.
I have more than a few things I need.

I think I will listen to Model Murdering and hold off on buying springs. Just try to cannibalize one to make 2 with mine and get some new Dash Chassis.
:)
 
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