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I have not tried the Dash stuff as of yet(besides thier poly 10 magnets),but here good things about them. And as many clubs acept them as "stock" they must be pretty spot on to Aurora.
What I can tell you having many Aurora Tjet and AW Tjet chassis is. The AW cars have sloppy tolerances, loose fitting gears and axles, some have bent axles out of the package and what I notice is many have issues with the motor magnets having so much pull that they brake hard when you let up the throttle(even when all else is friction free....or as close as plastic sloppy gears get).
Aurora chassis can have pretty crazy variances from chassis to chassis, but overall I find Aurora cars to be much smoother to drive and handle better. Once setup they seem to glide through turns when letting up, were as most of my AW cars are more jerky, let up too much and they stop or close to it, or you deslot trying to drive it harder in an effort to avoid that.
AW cars for the most part have more HP as they ohm a bit lower than most Aurora grey tip(stock) armatures and they have stronger magnets. Add to that a 14T Tuff Ones rear pinion and they can fly down a straight. Its just they drive more erratic than an Aurora car.
AW cars have plated shoes too which are a little stiffer and take a bit more tweaking to adjust the bends(which I complain about every time I buy one and have to set it up LOL)
Much of the tolerance problems car be corrected with peening and bent axles can be replaced etc......but overall IMO Aurora cars are much better to drive if you just want to setup the shoes oil it and drop it on the rails. My current procedure for a new AW car is to setup the shoes(hooks, contact patchs and restriction with heat shrink) pop out the traction magnet and push the cluster shaft down through the driven gear and then push the pinion up, which helps the gear slop, then replace the rear tires with silicones, but they need much more than that to really drive GREAT. But they are cheap and plentyful with Hobby Lobby 2mi down the road from home.
As for the AW Xtractions I only had one it had a wobbly wheel. After like 100 laps I really just hated the magnet feel and the bent wheel being the clincher I returned it to Hobby Lobby for a AW Tjet car.
 

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Rich Dumas
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Here is the article on tuning JL/AW Thunderjet cars that I mentioned earlier: ThunderJet 500 Tuning by RHD Rev. 10.pdf
The earlier Aurora T-Jets were good smooth running cars, the stuff made just before they were replaced with the T/FX cars had problems. By that time the tooling for making the chassis was shot so the axle, armature shaft and cluster gear shaft holes were sloppy and the QC of the armatures was poor. You can always swage the holes, like you usually need to do with JL/AW cars, but most of the time you can't fix all of the issues with the armatures.
 

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Not to nitpick, but for clarity's sake.

RD: "The earlier Aurora T-Jets were good smooth running cars, the stuff made just before they were replaced with the T/FX cars had problems."

Short of a time machine, I think Rich meant "replaced by AFX cars", not TFX. The demise of the T-jet and the introduction of the TFX are half a century apart.

Those T-jets are what I affectionately call the "Singapore Slings".

*

AW's ? These threads meander along without stepping on the crack, aka: yer mommas back. A jigger of truth serum identifies ground zero.

They're stiff and weird from the get go. Strong magnets, decent arms, combined with notoriously massive QC issues, make for an unbalanced, undue friction, smorgasboard. They remind me of an old girlfriend that always drove cars around with the Ebrake on.

AW Tjets are like the big fat trained bear at the circus, laboring to ride the goofy bike with the off center rims. sporting short and long spokes. Gyrating and bucking from every rotating assembly like a dog passing a razor blade.

Truly, a virtual symphony of the mechanically disharmonious! Ya got a new in package possibles list. 2 bent play-dough axles, 4 tires and 4 wheels which may or may not be concentric, drive shafts dubiously plumb, a gear mess er mesh points (3) that even Tootsie Toy would reject. 2 shoe hooks that have been miss stamped since the get go, and still remain uncorrected. Do the guide pins still shear off if you look at them crosswise? Rear axle rubbing the bottom of the tail plate. Think about that in three dimensions, and we might understand why the pinion shaft is short of the mark, or is it that the hole is low? Brush holes too tight, brushes binding. Brush holes too loose, brushes canting. Jeez Louise, it just goes on and on.

Essentially far worse than the later generation T-jets Rich bemoans above. Same old problems from brand NEW tooling, featuring a new plateau in barn door accuracy; along with a whole host of additional horse plop the apologists say we should be grateful for ... and I quote their boss, "Take it or Leave it!!!" Cue the brass band, teddy bears, gumdrops, and rainbows dontcha know?

Extra extra read all about it! Jump for joy. They further cockeyed the calamity and proudly claimed victory on their new "Ultra's" packaging. Rather than actually addressing anything, the experts corrected the "potentials list" by drouging the platform into submission with an asymmetrical traction magnet. (a sailing technique for stabilizing square riggers awash in foul weather; where a funnel shaped sail is dragged behind and below the waterline the to settle the hull)

No loss of performance there, to say nothing of the resulting staggered handling ... Pathetic.

Seen their "lame throwers"? Couldnt copy the reliable design of yore? Cludged would be a compliment. What slotter puts a shunt AND wire in the heart of the pick up shoe travel. I've seen better design and execution at the grade school science fair.

Boiling it down to the nuts and bolts, regardless of maker, it's about how much time and money your willing to fritter away on a sows ear in order to make it a silk purse. I'm of the mind, that to attain the true tuner/builder Zen, one has to experience a sufficient quantity of comparative analysis, by sorting through the good, the bad, and the ugly, regardless of manufacturer.

The fine print on AW ... some turd polishing required, BUT only if you expect a slot car for your money.

Still last on the list, by a wide margin.
 

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Ah yea I forgot to add the "too small brush holes" and "brush binding" to my list of usual out of package defects.
As far as play dough axles go...........seriously is the front axle a finishing nail? No really?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I purchased some parts online, mostly brushes and PU springs. I put together 6 old chassis that are now running good.
I have one that I can not get the Tjet screech out of yet. and Have 2 more that I need some more parts to order for.
Also I am not sure how the heck I had my old 67 Tbird setup in the old days. I just barely have clearance for the rear wheels inside the wheel well, or need to add spacer to lift tail.

I do have one Original AFX chassis that I need a crown gear for. Seems like these are hard to find.

Thanks to all for the information provided.
I did go to local HobbyLobby and buy a AW Tjet AMX (always wanted the AMX body anyway)
Maybe it is just me or my setup. But it runs Pretty good, but has no drift (or what ever) in corners and when you let off the trigger it just stops, no run on.

Like I said, I have been communicating with Dan at Dash and will be buying some of their chassis and parts to fix up other cars.

Thanks again.
I have downloaded a lot of PDFs from the site that have been provided.
Thank you
 

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Yea the AW cars have no drift in corners due to the neo magnet on the bottom. You can pop the top plate off remove the rear magnet then push the traction magnet out with a paper clip. It'll make it more "Tjet". While the top plate is off push the cluster shaft down flush with the top of the driven gear, then flip it over and push the pinion up on the cluster shaft, make sure it spins free(or back off the pinion till it does) that'll help the gear mesh. And spray out the grease AW puts on the gears and use good oil.
BTW silicone rear tires make a world of differance on the AW Tjets vs the stock hard rubber clunkers.
I had a nice Green AMX a awhile back but I screwed it up trying to hog out the wheel wells(looked horrid)......sucks cause I got the green one cause it reminded me of a green AMX that ran at the local drag strip when I was a kid.
 

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I have one that I can not get the Tjet screech out of yet.
Lubricate any point where steel touches plastic ASAP. Not just the obvious spots on the armature; but both ends of the pinion shaft, the rear axle, and yes, even the front axle has been the culprit.

The old oiling chart was most specific!

They will trick you, if you let them!
 
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