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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Hi Tamar, great to hear from you. I've missed you. I'll check that out soon and let you know. Did you ever get those emails I sent back in early June. They showed the schematic for my AC system. Pleased to tell you the test version works perfectly.
Cheers,
Frank
 

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Alan Wilkinson
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Good advice from Tamar.
Any short circuits will blow the chip.
I always insulate each leg and wrap the ferrite man in tape.

I would also worry about the motor spindle being that close to the chip.
A good rear end shunt might cause enough pod movement for the shaft to impact the chip.
Take the motor out and shorten the shaft with a Dremel.

To test the lane change, fit an external led emitter. This might help you identify whether the onboard is at fault.
Alan W.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Tamar and Alan,
I checked both cars. The leds “blink” without the LC button pressed. They go solid ON when I press the LC button on the controller. One triggers the LC, the other doesn't.

The ferriteman is a good 4-5mm above the motor and is NOT pushed down when the body is mounted so no shorts there. I'll put some insulation in just to be on the safe side.

And yes, I'll trim that motor shaft.

I can't get an external led emitter for testing right now. We are in Covid lockdown till at least the middle of next week. To be honest, I don't really know what I should be asking for at an electronics shop. Any suggestions?

I'm a tad reluctant to replace this chip but will do if I can't resolve the problem. I have several waiting to be installed in other cars.

Frank
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Using Google translate:-

Use the moving camera trick to see if the LED works.
Power the chip, focus the Camera on the LED and press the Shift arrow.

I have no idea what he's talking about. Can anyone explain please.
 

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[QUOTE = "FrankM, publicación: 2481315, miembro: 84463"]
Usando el traductor de Google:-

Utilice el truco de la cámara en movimiento para ver si el LED funciona.
Encienda el chip, enfoque la cámara en el LED y presione la flecha Shift.

No tengo idea de lo que está hablando. ¿Alguien puede explicar por favor?
[/ CITA]

¿Cómo saber si el mando a distancia del televisor se ha quedado sin pilas?
Enfoque la cámara del móvil al IR del mando a distancia y presione cualquier botón del mando a distancia mientras mira la pantalla del móvil y verás la luz que emite el IR.
Luego aplique esto al chip de del automóvil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Google Translate again:-
How to know if the TV remote control has run out of batteries? Focus the camera of the mobile to the IR of the remote control and press any button of the remote control while looking at the screen of the mobile and you will see the light that the IR emits. Then apply this to the car's chip.

OK so I tried this first with the TV remote and yep, it works. Then tried it with the chip that works the LC and again, you can see the IR Emitter blinking on the phone camera. BUT, there is nothing from the emitter on the chip that's not working. Does this mean a faulty chip or is there another reason it's not working.

Back to Tamar's question on "Blinking" I have the LC set so that pressing either the Up or Down arrow will initiate the LC. With Neither button pressed, the LED on the chip is blinking rapidly. If I press the UP arrow, the LED goes solid ON. If I press the Down arrow, the LED goes Off. That's the case with both cars. I'm just wondering if this is actually normal as I haven't seen this documented anywhere.

And thanks to Malafama for proving the info for this test.
 

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Hello Frank
Welcome to the wonderfull world of digital slot cars & tracks;)

I’m on vacation right now so checking the “ manuals” is a bit harder. But from the info you’ve provided it looks like you may have a defunct LC led. Which is a warrenty item.

The led blinking as you press the LC button(s) on the controller means the B2 chip recieves the command.
The handy mobilephone camera trick 👍 shows that the IR led isnt emitting.
Nothing you as a customer can do to change that other than send it back to your supplier

with kind regards
Tamar
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Hi Tamar,

I think I'll go ahead and install a few more B2 chips in other cars and check them out. I have nine all up so I'm hoping it's just the one faulty item. I'll also call my supplier on Monday and discuss with them.

Meanwhile, enjoy your holiday wherever you are. It's the middle of winter here and tonight is cold, wet and windy but we have a nice fire going which is good.

Cheers,
Frank
 

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ParrotGod
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Frank, very neat install! I wonder, did you already know the phone trick before Malafama posted it? Because in post #23 you mention that you can see them blinking and being solid. How did you manage to see them blinking without a phone?
 

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Gio
Frank was writing about the "indicator" Led on top of the chip.

@ Frank, yep we're really on opposite sites.
Here on the Croatian Adriatic coast, middle of summer, 31˚C, clear blue sky and seas.:cool:
Tomorrow we'll start our trip heading back north to Holland were its expected to rain for the whole next week :cautious:

With kind regards
Tamar
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Grunz,
Tamar is correct. I was actually replying to a question he asked.

Tamar,
I know that area well from the time I spent in Europe back in the 70s.
 

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ParrotGod
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Oh I see...Somehow when I read Tamar's comment I immediately thought of the IR LED under the chip giving that it controls the lane changers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Guys, I have nine of these B2 chips. Just wondering if there is a quick way to check they are working without having to actually install them in a car and get them activated with the Slot.it APP. I'd imagine there would be some sort of quality control test done on them before they leave the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Regarding my last post, I'm just guessing from the lack of replies that I might have to install and activate the Oxigen B2 chips before I can test them. It would be appreciated if this could be confirmed or otherwise. It's just that I'd rather identify any other problem chips prior to sending this faulty one back to my supplier.
Cheers,
Frank
 

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Hello Frank
Sorry, but hard to reply when travelling on the highway back north along the Adriatic coast :cool:

With the amount of chips you have it would be worth the effort of setting up a small test/install rigg.

  • a 9-12v power supply
  • wires with crocodile clips on one end and banana plugs on the other. (pref the type where you can insert a second bananaplug)
  • a Slot.it SCP2/3 controller
  • a (slot.it) bar magnet
  • Something to mount/hold/secure the O2 chip on its side
  • a mobile phone with both the slot.it and NrF app installed.
  • additionally you could add a motor to your test rigg with soldered to it another set of wires with crocodile clips
    (note I prefer to use red and black wires for all installs to make it idiot proof)


    All you need to do is to mount the O2 chip on its side so you can check both the Indicator LED on top as well as the IR LC led on the bottom (with the mobile phone camera trick)
    insert the hall sensor in the correct socket and power up the O2 chip.

    As your test ring mimics that of a car installation you can follow all the check/instal and registration procedures mentioned in the Slot.it manuals.

    With kind regards
    Tamar
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Thanks Tamar,

An excellent idea and I would have done that except by the time I saw your post, I'd already installed another 4 chips and replaced the faulty one. So only another three to go and then the last one when I get a replacement chip. I'm pleased to report that all the others have worked correctly so I'm hoping that is the only bad chip.

I'm going to post a pic of my AC test rig on my main thread. That all works as planned so just need to finish building and installing.

Have a safe trip back to Holland.

Cheers,
Frank
 

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ParrotGod
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Excellent idea Tamar. I have 4 new chips to test as well and 4 more on order.
I am not planning to register them at the moment. Somehow my database of chips on the app got all messed up and I cannot really bother to do another registration round.
You need to be aware that some chips might have a very sensitive Hall sensor. I am not sure if it is hardware (the hall sensor itself) or firmware.
One of the new drivers in my club got 3 chips and all of them have several issues but one in particular keep setting crazy fast laps meaning that it detects the solenoids in the lane changers.
I have changed the hall sensor and will be testing to confirm if it is the sensor or the chip/firmware.
Unfortunately, you can only test this when driving around the track.
 
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