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· Premium Member
127 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So this isn't as fancy as what came perfectly of the 3d bed last!
It is research phase of building my own slot car (I know they are readily available but its just a fun endeavor)
I did the first print ever of any type of body last night just to see was it a possibility with my printer.There is obviously much to sort out in regards to print settings , material and post processing!!!
next step is to thicken the shell walls and get the scale how I like (I might go a fraction bigger than 1/32) , then see about adding chassis posts and much more!
this is just a tentative step one!
Vehicle Car Hood Tire Wheel
Automotive tire Wood Musical instrument Table Flooring

· Registered
419 Posts
You are off to a good start. The real trick is getting the support out without damaging the body. How did that go? You might experiment with printing the body in a more vertical orientation. Imagine the front bumper against the print bed.

Either way, finishing an FDM body will require a fair bit of"hand work". Traditional Bondo body filler and sanding is one path. There are other model making fillers as well (I like Tamiya). Smooth-On sells a product called XTC-3D that might be worth a look. On prints that came out really well, I've been able to just use spray can "automotive filler primer". You can find it in the paint department at most auto part stores.

· Registered
1,356 Posts
Jasperok, I think you are off to a fantastic start. That doesn't look too bad to me.
You can experiment with settings to make support easier to remove. I typically run a Z offset of 0.3mm which helps everything separate more easily when I print flat on the plate like that. Also, running with minimal layer height (0.06 layer height for FDM) will improve your surface finish. To be very frank, the quality of the model dictates the finish more than anything else. For inspiration, this is a pretty good Lola T70 file printed in PLA at 0.06 layer height.
If you print vertically, whatever side is toward the plate will lose some detail dur to support adhesion, so be aware.

Vehicle Hood Wheel Toy Car

As Cdub has pointed out, filler primer will help. FDM prints are porous and a couple coats of primer helps to seal things and then ease the smoothing. I have also used a soak in Future / Klear to help level things between primer / color coats. I haven't ever used filler, as it adds quite a bit of weight....but that's my preference. All of these 908s were FDM printed for a proxy we ran last year and you can see differences in finish / printing layer heights. But the cars were quick.

Motor vehicle Toy Car Vehicle Mode of transport

For the first one, maybe you just want to run it before you worry too much about smoothness....I know some of my early cars are not as smooth as these later ones. So build it and run! There was an interesting chassis with a captive pod for an FK180 motor that might work under that car with some shortening (easy to do in CAD).
Body posts are just like any scratchbuild...I don't add them to the body since chassis choice varies and it's easy enough to glue them in later.
As far as thick are you thinking? A nice thin shell can be quite light (10g) and make a reasonable car. I wouldn't go much thicker than 0.6mm, they get heavy quickly.

Good luck, and keep posting your progress!

· Kevs Racing Bits
6,099 Posts
Don't print with the front end pointing down, if you're going to print at an angle (45° is good for FDM) then point the front end up in the air as you want detail to be good at the front end, the rear end will suffer a little with loss of fact anything 'underneath' will lose detail as you can't print on fresh air even printing on top of supports.

When I got my resin printer I tried brushing UV resin on a FDM printed bodyshell then curing it, the resin filled the hollows and if you put just enough on will look smooth.

· Registered
1,185 Posts
It looks like you are well on your way! Nice work thus far. Chappyman is right about a good file.

Here's a few progression shots as I prep one of mine for paint (BTW - the Grey/Black 908 in the pic above is mine - done the same as this):

Electrical wiring Electronic instrument Computer hardware Engineering Electronic engineering

Vehicle Car Wheel Hood Automotive design

Three coats of primer filler with a light sand using 220 grit in between, and here's where it is at:

Hood Aircraft Vehicle Airplane Automotive design
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