SlotForum banner
21 - 40 of 115 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,704 Posts
Looks like fun Jens.

The black backdrop I see in today's first photo has given me an idea as to how I will finish the top of my set with out messing up the walls with paint and plaster. Thanks.
 

·
Targa Freak
Joined
·
936 Posts
Hi everybody!

Step 10: Coverage of the steel-mesh: Plastering

First of all check the shape of your scenery, all elevations of the track and the total look once more. It is your last chance for changes.

Shaping the scenery and covering the mesh (as well as the way you do that) depends on the way you prefer.
A simple way is to cover it with papermache, some other guys use insulating-foam and cut into shape after (very lightwight). I prefer the good old and dirty plaster-method: You simply get some kitchen-paper, cut it into smaller pieces (I prefer stipes of about 15 x 30cm) and bath them in a thin (almost watery) solution of plaster one after the other. Put down on the mesh in 2 to 3 layers they give a stable and relatively lightwight coverage of the mesh. Work with little amounts of plaster and in little areas. If you want to build a wintertrack you might stop scenery-works here
.


slowly it starts to look like a track...winterwonderworld for now.


Note: while plastering I kept the rest of the plaster which became too hard to work with, put it aside and pressed with the hands to form little stones and rocks. I have used them as a first step to a more detailed scenery. (Sorry, untill now I have no idea how to get them colored, ...but you know: Everything will be fine in the end


Hope you enjoy! What else methods can be used to shape scenery? Any input welcome.

By the way: Many freaks prefer painting/coppertaping the track before starting with scenery. There have to be added 3,50Euro for the plaster and 0,50Euro for one roll of kitchenpaper: The total sum for now eventually is 27,50Euro

Regards Jens
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
I've used a product called sculptamold on mine as opposed to plaster. It's made of cellulose and mixes with water exactly the same as plaster. The main benefit is that it is considerably lighter when dry.

Looking forward to more installments of the tutorial Jens.
 

·
Targa Freak
Joined
·
936 Posts
Good morning everybody. Thanks for your positive comments.

@Zook: Yes, I like them.
@90sF1Kid: Yes, sculptamold is much lighter but more expensive. 3,50Euro for 5kg plaster cannot be beaten I think.
@rallyP: Yes, I think so.

Step 11: Adding some scenic drama.

Yesterday I started to play with the idea to use the rests of the plaster in combination with some rockmolds to get some dramaturgy into the scenery.
You have seen the first photos. I started to love those sharp edges.


The stuff of desire.

For bigger rocks and cliffs I use a rockmold. It can be easily selfmade. I used a styrofoamrock from Noch (www.noch.de) and covered it several times (i guess 15 to 20x
) with latex-milk. A natural stone with a nice surface or a big piece of coal can be used, too. Once dryed you can put it into a bed of sand and fill with liquid plaster to get bigger areas. As an alternative you can fill it with thicker plaster and directly add it to the tracks scenery (jmswms likes to do like this).





Check the best look by changing their position and direction. Then simply plaster in place with some thicker plaster behind.
As a next step a liquid plaster is used to give a base for the next step of shaping the scenery.

Work in small areas only because you have to be fast now. The underground soaks the water of the plaster quickly and it looses its gluing ability rapidly.

The plaster debris is thrown in randomally, only bigger rocks and eyecatchers have to be put into the liquid with thought and care before throwing the debris in.



Gluing in a rock here and there will give a great and dramatic look.

After some minutes you can vac off the overload. An old sock keeps the vac from eating all that little stones and rocks that could be used later again. (Same method works to save static grass of cause, too.



The result needs some more work on detail but gives good looks I think:





To be continued soon. Kind regards Jens
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Hello Jens,

Thanks for the great pictures and the detailed description.

That makes mut also a small stretch to build next to my parking sezial stages.

I currently have only a little space, but that's always a little way.

I'm looking forward to more pictures of your route.

Many greeting
Stefan
 

·
Targa Freak
Joined
·
936 Posts
Hello everybody,

Just a little thing for now:

Step 12: Closing gaps and screwholes.



I guess theoretically you could use every kind of filler to close the gaps and screwholes, even plaster works. (Nobody cares for once covered with color
)
I use a special MDF filler. Same tube since years because you dont need much. The advantage of this investment is that the filler (ready to use) has the same behaviour than MDF. You can sand it, color it and even route it like MDF once dryed.

The scewholes should be filled and sanded twice to get a smooth surface because the filler shrinks a bit while drying. Take care to apply only when surface is free of dust.

Regards Jens
 

·
Targa Freak
Joined
·
936 Posts
Hello everybody:

Step 13: Some first colors


What you need: Some brushes, especially one soft, thick one.


Wallpaint (depending on your choice of colorsceme) darkbrown- sandy- white and some water. Thats all.
First step for the rocks is a dark watery (thin solution of) brown. This dark color is only needed to create the shadows in the deep cracks and gaps of the rocksurface.
The rocks are completely covered with it. Take care to reach every gap. The thin solution will make this easy.


The upper and left part of the rocks shown in the photo are the brownish-treated ones. The part below right shows the next step: A mixture of sandy and brown color is applyed relatively dry. Just to get a second quality of shadows. The dark areas in the depth are kept.


Same effect shown at an other area of the rocks.


Next layer of color is the sandy one that is applyed randomally, here and there while you prefer one direction of apply. Take care not to use too much color. Otherwise the structure of the rocks surface might be lost.

Last step is to highlight with white color. When using a thick and soft brush with very little white color the effect will be best:

You might google "drybrush" for a more detailed description of this method.


Brushing some newspaper or whatever reduces color inside of the brush to the level you need. The picture shows about the quantity of color needed for good results. You might do some tests first.


The result. The rocks on this photo look very light, but it only because it has poor quality, sorry. It will do its job to demonstrate.
The white is strictly applyed from one direction. Keep this direction for the whole track.


This is what we got so far: You can see the difference between the first (brown; left side of photo) step and the last one (white highlightning; right side).
Dont care for the yellowish color arround the rocks. I will take care for this in one of the further steps.

Costs for today: 2,45Euro for the colors each = 7,35Euro. Total: 34,85Euro

Regards Jens
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Hello Jens,
Very impressive and detailed how-to description!
I am looking forward to the next steps. I am especially interested in the color scheme you want to create.
Best regards,
Thomas
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,095 Posts
Jens,

The idea to use the remains of the plaster is great. The coloring is going well. I confess that in my builds the part I am never satisfied with are exactly the rocks and cliffs (their look, their distribution and their coloring), so I am paying attention. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
 

·
Targa Freak
Joined
·
936 Posts
Hello everybody and thanks for your interest.

Step 14: Some more thoughts about colors and first details of scenery:

Okay, the rocks are colored and dryed, now we have to do it look more realistic. In order to keep it simple and cheap I didnt want to spend too much money in static grass or other scenic gear. I only allowed one little bag of grass (Heki "Savanna" static grass, 6mm). In my other tracks I glued the grass, sand and rocks with white-wood-glue. In the end I always was a bit unhappy with that because the glue is relatively expensive and dryes satinlike and not matt. So I decided to put the scenic stuff directly into the wet color.

Here we go, this is the point we start at:


Second step is to apply color. Dont save too much of it here.


Note that the wet color due to some reaction with the plaster has some total different look than the dryed: Test first!

Something else needed is some dry sand (stolen from my childrens sandpit; very cheap solution!). The sand has to be sifted to devide the little stones from the fine sand.


As a next step the little stones are strewed into the wet color. Note that the stones should be applied before the fine sand.


Overflow is taken off with a vac.

This is what we get:

Looks nice so far, I think.

Next step will be to apply some grass and details. Here is a little preview. Tutorial to follow.


By the way: Did you start building yet?


Have fun, regards Jens
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,138 Posts
Looks very good, Jens.
I used also real stones in the brook of the Swedish Rally Track.
It is not only easier, but it is not wrong at all; just like real stones.


rallyhub
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,095 Posts
I think it looks excellent.

You did not use glue for the static grass? Does Heki static grass come in different colors? I do not want to spend the money in the apparatus but I "need" to use static grass.
 
21 - 40 of 115 Posts
Top