[athrlyth]

About 6 or 7 years ago I bought a catalogue from about 1966/67 I used to have this when i was young, in the catalogue are a few set scenery/ scenes and what you could buy, anyway I didn't have a track back then so I cut the pictures out of the catalogue and made my own races using the cut outs. Moving on to about 2005 I bought the Bentley and the Alfa Romeo, wonderful models both, and I enjoy them a lot. but I would like to get them to go around the track there is no reason that I can see why they don't run. The motor works fine when put to a battery, I bought new wheels because the old ones had gone. Any help would as always be great. I am using Ninco track but they didn't work when I had scaley either. I am not very good as soldering but my next step is to just take everything out and start from scratch which I don't really want to do. the one thing that I have noticed is the motor it looks like a modern can motor and the the sleigh type which shows I think that the models I have got come from the 1980,s and not the 60's.

Thank you for reading.

Athrlyth

 

[aerodynamic]

Can you describe in more detail what happens when you put the cars on the track - do the motors run but the cars not move, i.e. it is likely to be a gear, probably split pinion problem, or are they just dead, a connection problem? You'll have to take the cars apart for any repairs, unless it's just a braid problem.

 

[vfr750]

A lot of Scaley cars from this period split their pinion gear so that it doesn't turn when the motor spins. If that's the case, replacing the pinion should sort it.

Cheers

John

 

[Mr.M]

Do they have a fixed pin guide or a turning "flag" guide?

That will determine whether they are originals or re-issues.

 

[vfr750]

Hi Mr M,

Athrlyth states in post 1 that the motor looks like a modern can motor which suggests that it's a reissue..

Cheers

John

 

[Mr.M]

Hi John,

Yes, I spotted that, but thought that "a modern can motor and the the sleigh type" was confusing.

To sum up,

Pin guide - open frame (RX) motor = 60s

Flag guide - Johnson 111 motor = 80s

Flag guide - Mabuchi motor = 90s

 

[athrlyth]

Hi Guys

Both cars have what i think is a re-issue I have changed the braids, when the cars are put onto the track the Bentley moves a couple of inches some times the Alfa don't move at all, its just dead. I have checked the pinion gear and they both look OK. I do have spare motors so I am thinking that this might be the only thing left to do. they are the paddle guide not the pin guide. I have heard that these cars can be difficult to get running. the track is level so no banking. you cant imagine how much I want these cars to run.

So My next question is does anyone know if these cars will run OK, with modern can motors, I cant see why they wouldn't but I'm not too sure.

Athrlyth

 

[Koala2]

Perhaps a silly question but : do other cars run normally since your track was victim of the high waters ? (As you stated their motors run normal from a battery, the prob might be the track and its connections or accessories ???)

 

[loosesalute]

Hi Athrlyth.
Just a thought, but it might be worth your while changing the two wires which go from the motor to the guide.
Cheers,
Kev.

 

[choc-ice]

I'm quite familiar with getting cars running after 30 years in the loft, I think your checklist should be:

1. With the car in your hands, turn the rear wheels, feel and listen to the rear axle & motor gear meshing. Is there a click at one spot, if so the pinion has probably split. Replacement pinions are cheap and easy to fit. If all is ok, move onto 2.

2. You've said that the motor works when it's on a battery, does it spin fine for a few seconds or gradually die, or does it falter then come back? If it gradually dies the motor is probably for the bin (or a rebuild if it's a Johnson large can 111?) When you put it against a battery, was it to the guide braids or to the motor itself? If the motor falters and you put power against the braids, that's your next thing to check.

3. Before putting the car on the track get the braids as straight as you can, trim any really loose bits of braid with a nail scissors. Then lift the braids a little so they're not laying flat against the guide but maybe 30 degrees up. With the braids touching the track, hold the rear wheels up and give it full throttle. Try rocking the car sideways, dragging it backwards and forwards by half an inch, anything to get some a clean part of the braids to make contact. Did it flicker into life for a second? If so, get some new braids on order and fit them. You should do this on the track section where the transformer plugs in, not on the piece of track next to it or on the opposite side of the room.

4. Still nothing? I'd suspect the track or the transformer. Can you put a voltmeter on there? Will full throttle you should get 12 or more volts, whatever the transformer says.

5. Still nothing? Put the voltmeter directly on the transformer output because maybe the wires aren't making contact with the track. If you don't have a voltmeter and don't fancy buying one, get a car lightbulb with flying leads (either soldered on or with a bulbholder) and see if it lights up brightly. Careful, they get hot!

6. Report back here

 

[rogerbass]

My 'Power and the Glory' Bentley which was a reissue has a modern motor and has the wires connected to the guide blade using metal ferrules (chrome caps) I would check these haven't worked loose, they should be tight in the holes in the guide blade. I've had these work loose on cars and cause eratic running on occasions.

Roger.

 

[athrlyth]

Wow Thanks everyone. theres a lot of stuff to go through here and I have read everything and will try to do everything you have told me. I dont know why, but I am always a litle surprised how much you guys seem to know. on this instance I think it might be I cant see the wood for the trees type of thing. so thanks all.

Athrlyth